I have a 2013 Countryman Base with the 1.6 N16 Model Engine It. Just randomly stopped starting one day with Check Engine Light. Vehicle will crank over and not fire/start.

Codes: 2F534, 2F5F, 2845, 2D9B, 287d, 296B, 2870

Vehicle was low on gas and oil, added oil (which shouldnt cause crank no start condition). Attached a fuel pressure gauge to verify fuel was getting to fuel rail. Gauge showed good pressure. Added 3 quarts of oil to eliminate low oil pressure. Removed valve cover to inspect timing and verify it did not jump due to lack of oil. Chain looked good and was still plenty tight. Cam marks looked good

Removed coils and tested for spark at each coil and each one showed good spark. Removed fuel injector and verified fuel injector pulse. Rpm gauge moves when cranking indicator of a good crank sensor. Ignition coils have constant 12v going to them, confirmed JBE is grounding out the relay for ignition coil.

After Further Testing & Replacement of Spark Plug Found Spark Plug Signal Would Drop Out after 2-3 Revolutions. Open harness at motor mount - no damage found. Sensors have proper 5V reference - this led me to suspecting the DME went bad - send the module to ECUPro for rebuilding - they confirmed no issues with the DME

Got it it back , Reinstalled - started looking around again. Found no signal on the signal on signal wire for the ignition coil. Crank signal at crankshaft sensor showed good reference. Signal wire @ DME for crank sensor shows bad (if that is the correct sensor because i found 3 different diagrams for this vehicle)


I am truly at a loss here - has anyone encountered this or point me in the right direction as to where to go next. Its been about 3 weeks chasing this issue

 

Check your fuses and relays. I had an intermittent main relay that would work perfect sometimes but other times would throw every code out there and would crank but no start... I got lucky finding the finicky relay issue. Was able to swap them around with coolant relay and problem went away. I replace the bad relay. I even bought a whole fuse box thinking there was some connection issue somewhere between computers but didn't have to go that extensive. I could push pressure on the main relay and get it to work or not work...

 

All Fuses and Relays check out thus far. Swapped a couple around with no change, tried using a new one for reference no change

 

I hate to throw this in the mix but its possible you have an intermittent short in some wire?
May be worth finding the relevant wires and doing a continuity test on them.

Other than that, sounds like you did a ton of things. All of which are the correct things to do.

Have you changed the battery recently? Was it programmed in if you did?
Make sure there is no corrosion on your battery terminals.

Although typically if it were battery related it wouldn't crank, just click. Unless the battery was just very weak.
Still may be worth a look.

I had a similar issue with my 2012 R60 and it was because i put in a yellow top optima. After i returned it and put in another brand (almost half the cost) - worked perfectly.

May also be worth doing a compression test on your cylinders.Maybe compression is not where it needs to be to ignite the spark.

 

Had a crank, no start condition with a 2012--but it was in winter 20 F. Must have cranked it 40 times. Put a space heater under engine with hood closed for 3 hours and it started right up, ran fine till next winter, got space heater going and it worked again. My guess was a bad electrical connection. At the time, most forum posts were about the passenger footwell fuse box. Good luck, buddy!