I fixed a broken turbo stud and disconnected my battery. I started the car on my ramps so I could retorque bolts. To my dismay the car is stuck in maintenance mode , NO resetting it via the stalk routine doesn't work NOR does resetting it and setting a new date with ny scanner.
HELP

 

Sorry, what is maintenance mode? Is it the same as limp/safe mode or transport mode? Or is it the well known FRM issue commonly associated with disconnecting the battery?

 

I cant roll up windows, turn on lights , brake lights dont work ect...
wtf ???? I literally unplugged my battery and 02 sensors , to fix a turbo stud.. THATS IT !

 

 

That fits with the FRM issue. Very commonly occurs after battery disconnection and reconnection. Fix is generally to have FRM reprogrammed, though you first may want to check the 4 FRM fuses behind the passenger kick panel.

In the future, remove the 4 FRM fuses before you disconnect and reconnect the battery.

 

can you please help me locate the correct fuses ? The ones on passenger side kick panel pop off ?
I did see this.

 

Need car info.

 

So I'm guessing I fried my frm when reconnecting the battery..
Do i have to have an frm programmed to my ecu/car or do I just need one with the same part #s ??? I'm almost positive it's what's wrong , that'd be my luck..

 

it is a 2011 r58 jcw , 6spd and modified.

 

Buying a new FRM would be expensive, and it also must be programmed for your specific Mini.

Reprogramming the current FRM would be less expensive, but shop around for reputable businesses and fair prices. Maybe members who have had this service done can chime in. I've read about FRM reprogramming prices as low as $60.

FRM fuses for Minis from 12/2008
2 30A fuses: F4, F8
2 40A fuses: F52, F53

 

I tried connecting to the frm via my scanner and it failed to communicate, indicating the frm module is bad..
I actually found a YouTube video about frm replacement and the guy when describing his issues , I have every exact same issue..
Luckily I found a rebuild service for it on ebay and it is already shipped out..lol.. so I pray this fixs it because i wanna finally be able to enjoy my big turbo at it full potential...

 

Doing the work I am doing on mine right now, the battery disconnect situation has had me concerned. I have read of several others having this issue.

MiniManAdam, in my mind, I cannot see how removing the fuses helps correct the issue. It has to be one of two things causing the FRM issue, an arc when connecting the battery or corrupted memory in the FRM. As I understand it, it is normally corrupted memory. Some people recommend using an ODB memory saver. My only concern with one of these is can you accidentally cause an arc when working on electronics while it is connected?

 

On these cars, you need to wait for the FRM to “go to sleep” before disconnecting the battery. Not waiting will cause these issues.

 

Removing the FRM fuses shields the FRM from potentially damaging voltage spikes that may occur when disconnecting and reconnecting the battery.

While the use of a 12V memory saver helps to minimize the severity of potentially damaging voltage spikes when replacing the battery, removal of the FRM fuses prior to replacing the battery is still the best protection from corrupting the FRM software.

If you don't open a door, Mini ECUs fall into deep sleep (very low mV amperage draw) about an hour after removing the key fob from the ignition. Therefore, as mentioned, disconnection of the battery is safer when the car is fully asleep. However, I believe that reconnection of the battery connectors wakes the ECUs, so removal of the FRM fuses prior to battery reconnection would be highly recommended.

 

Just an FYI - The scanner also would not communicate with a good FRM, if it did not get power from the FRM fuses.

 

So the ODB memory device isn't a bad idea along with letting the FRM go to sleep. I know letting it go to sleep was recommended before adding the JB+ to my car.

Basically, roll the windows down, open the hood, close the doors and leave it sit for 30 minutes to an hour. If I remember correctly, when it goes to sleep, it does make a quiet clicking noise like a relay releasing or something.

 

This YouTuber measures normal amperage draw on a 2013 Mini Cooper and finds that it takes 45-60 minutes for all control modules to fall into deep sleep. That's why I suggest 1 hour.

 

funny you should mention.. that clicking /switch moving noise I hear every now and then..I bet that's whst it is..

 

BTW my frm was indeed fried and I had to rebuilt/repaired for 60$ only. After reinstalling it the cars back to normal.

 

Glad you got it back going! Can hardly wait to get mine back on the road.