R50/53 2yo AC Comp Dead: Buy another Or Rebuild?
2yo AC Comp Dead: Buy another Or Rebuild?
Following is for a 2004 (pre-July) base r50
Installed a new aftermarket AC compressor 2.5 years ago and after working fine for two years it's dead again. The clutch doesn't engage or anything. There's no freon leaks and power is getting to it best i can tell. Will be replacing the radiator support bracket so figure this is a good time to re-do the AC since so much bulk has to come off the front of the car.
obv clutch rebuild kits are much cheaper than a whole new ac-comp but I've never attempted this procedure and unsure if it's the right direction. I would find it hard to believe that it's the seals/O-rings that are the problem so rebuilding the whole thing seem like a bit overkill. But you tell me...
Any thoughts or opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Installed a new aftermarket AC compressor 2.5 years ago and after working fine for two years it's dead again. The clutch doesn't engage or anything. There's no freon leaks and power is getting to it best i can tell. Will be replacing the radiator support bracket so figure this is a good time to re-do the AC since so much bulk has to come off the front of the car.
obv clutch rebuild kits are much cheaper than a whole new ac-comp but I've never attempted this procedure and unsure if it's the right direction. I would find it hard to believe that it's the seals/O-rings that are the problem so rebuilding the whole thing seem like a bit overkill. But you tell me...
Any thoughts or opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Yep. I think I did put the car in front end service mode though. You’ll want an impact to remove and install the bolt that holds the clutch (or maybe I’m thinking of the pulley) to the compressor.
You can check continuity on the coil by pulling the relay in the fuse box and probing the terminals there (assuming the wiring between there and the coil is fine, of course).
You can check continuity on the coil by pulling the relay in the fuse box and probing the terminals there (assuming the wiring between there and the coil is fine, of course).
Nope. If it’s just the clutch, you don’t have to touch the refrigerant at all. Do verify that the coil is bad first, of course. There’s a post on here with more details somewhere. Not mine, but someone else did the same work some years ago.
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To echo @deepgrey - My AC clutch failed about 9 years ago during the hottest days on record when I relocated to Austin TX.
The dealer insisted that the AC unit had failed and would only agree to replace the entire compressor & condenser at a cost of $3,800 - $4,200.
I lived without AC for three years thereafter. I finally wised up and did a little research in 2018 and bought a new no-name, AC compressor clutch off eBay = $80.
I didn't even put my Mini into FSM. I did the ModMini thing by unbolting the lower engine mount (dogbone) and used a ratchet strap to pull the motor back enough to gain clearance to the AC compressor.
As stated previously; you will need an impact wrench in order to remove the center torx bolt that holds the clutch in place.
It took me about 2wo hours working in the parking lot of our townhome. Since the AC hadn't worked in three years; I had to have the system evacuated and recharged.
My AC's been blowing cold for six years. Best $80, inyourface to the dealer, I've ever spent!
Good luck!
The dealer insisted that the AC unit had failed and would only agree to replace the entire compressor & condenser at a cost of $3,800 - $4,200.
I lived without AC for three years thereafter. I finally wised up and did a little research in 2018 and bought a new no-name, AC compressor clutch off eBay = $80.
I didn't even put my Mini into FSM. I did the ModMini thing by unbolting the lower engine mount (dogbone) and used a ratchet strap to pull the motor back enough to gain clearance to the AC compressor.
As stated previously; you will need an impact wrench in order to remove the center torx bolt that holds the clutch in place.
It took me about 2wo hours working in the parking lot of our townhome. Since the AC hadn't worked in three years; I had to have the system evacuated and recharged.
My AC's been blowing cold for six years. Best $80, inyourface to the dealer, I've ever spent!
Good luck!
It turns out i had a small hole in one of the aluminum AC lines connected to the front condenser- this was all the downstream effect of not putting the bottom plastic shield back on after finishing a repair. I let it go so too long and then went on a three day road trip not realizing that that my whole bumper and all the connections started getting blown around breaking until some of it blew off on the highway... whoops. Eventually the radiator bracket was broken and everything was floating and mashing and that thin metal grill on the lower center of the front cut into it. fairly costly and time consuming to get everything back to snuff.
Bought some brazing rods and will repair the hole soon- All VERY DUMB, I know... Completely avoidable and testament to the destructive power of being lazy.
Turns out all that annoying plastic on these cars is actually good for something besides making the plastic clip manufacturers wealthy.
Bought some brazing rods and will repair the hole soon- All VERY DUMB, I know... Completely avoidable and testament to the destructive power of being lazy.
Turns out all that annoying plastic on these cars is actually good for something besides making the plastic clip manufacturers wealthy.
Tell me more about this. I started doing track days this year and my A/C stopped working last week street driving. Coincidence?
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