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2012 Countryman, 60k miles, never had any issues and routine maintenance at dealer (I bought it pre-owned from Mini dealer at 50k about 2yrs ago, original owner in so cal, all service records, was an older person who drove it on weekends). Just moved to Colo Springs, so much colder temps for this little car. Last few starts have been tough for all our cars, couple sub zero days, the starts are a real quick higher RPM for a second or so, then back to normal, but cold sounding. Today its in the 20's, and started it and have that engine malfunction light. Decided to not to drive it for some errands and drove other car.
I just had oil changed at Mini before we moved-they told us "should have turbo replaced, for $7000"....uhhh no thanks, they showed a pic of some residual oil in turbo and I posted on another forum and everyone said the dealer is on crack and some other solutions in the mean time.
I replaced coils and plugs about 5k miles ago and this car has run great with no issues-until this morning.
I have one of those BLUE-something code scanner things, maybe have a go at that first? I searched the forum for any "what to check first" with this light, but came up short. Any help would be great, this is my daughters car who is away overseas at college, so we are not driving it much-I was gonna sell it for her, but, she loves this car and it so far has been reliable.
1 confirmed trouble code,
P00BD Mass or volume air flow "A" circuit range/performance-Air flow too high.
Like I said, we did just move to 7000' colorado springs from literally Sea Level (santa ana ca)....could altitude do something?
I will say the exhaust smells a little different, not bad or worse, but, just a little more exhaust'y if thats a thing....little bit of water coming out of tailpipes, very little-I don't recall if that was normal back at sea level.
Then I have some history older codes I think; 4 engine codes "status-history"/
After some poking around on here, maybe try cleaning the MAF with MAF cleaner?
That was my first thought. Buy some MAF cleaner and try it. Maybe replace it. Could be an air leak in the hose the maf sensor is in but less likely since it only changed with the altitude. My pipe did crack by the turbo inlet, but I didn't have any codes to tell me so.
FWIW, back when this went down...I bought the cleaner, MAF looked immaculate in there but cleaned anyway, code came back.
I do have 2C57 codes, i've reset those a lot, in the last year (A year of codes, with maybe 500 miles in a year...its my kids car who is overseas).
Just diving into the 'replacing turbo threads' now....I see your thread with same code and similar issues!
FWIW, back when this went down...I bought the cleaner, MAF looked immaculate in there but cleaned anyway, code came back.
I do have 2C57 codes, i've reset those a lot, in the last year (A year of codes, with maybe 500 miles in a year...its my kids car who is overseas).
Just diving into the 'replacing turbo threads' now....I see your thread with same code and similar issues!
Hey since you are diving into the "replacing turbo" threads I wanted to give you a heads up on something that happened to me... (2011 All4 CM)
My car was over time throwing codes a lot, often also bringing up a warning that engine performance may be affected - even though mostly it was not.
I can't remember specifically what the codes were, but they were tied to that performance message almost all the time. So I think if you are not seeing that engine performance message it doesn't seem like it's the stuck turbo waste gate issue that I had found when I was researching possible issues.
I also thought my turbo was dying but that was expensive enough to replace I was reluctant to actually replace it until performance was affected often.. so I went for a few years like that. But then a few months ago the car really took a nose dive where acceleration would randomly lose power.
That turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump dying. I got that replaced, and ever since only one occurrence of an engine code in months. So I'm not sure my turbo was dying after all, and maybe other things are symptoms of the high pressure fuel pump starting to have issues.
Hope you can figure out what it is, very annoying to have an engine light go on often.
Hey since you are diving into the "replacing turbo" threads I wanted to give you a heads up on something that happened to me... (2011 All4 CM)
My car was over time throwing codes a lot, often also bringing up a warning that engine performance may be affected - even though mostly it was not.
I can't remember specifically what the codes were, but they were tied to that performance message almost all the time. So I think if you are not seeing that engine performance message it doesn't seem like it's the stuck turbo waste gate issue that I had found when I was researching possible issues.
I also thought my turbo was dying but that was expensive enough to replace I was reluctant to actually replace it until performance was affected often.. so I went for a few years like that. But then a few months ago the car really took a nose dive where acceleration would randomly lose power.
That turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump dying. I got that replaced, and ever since only one occurrence of an engine code in months. So I'm not sure my turbo was dying after all, and maybe other things are symptoms of the high pressure fuel pump starting to have issues.
Hope you can figure out what it is, very annoying to have an engine light go on often.
Thanks for a reply.....
so, not sure I updated my multiple threads haha. I had taken off the intake tube early on when I was checking the turbo for any visible damage, and the attachment from that tube/snorkel into the bigger main turbo port never seemed stable, but I just moved on and did not pay attention, well, turned out where the hose clamp was, the entire attachment of the intake boot had seperated, wasn't even creating a good seal....so I ordered a new one, I also ordered new PCV valve cap cover thing-which I removed carefully and put some heat on it before attempting to pop it off as I read you can crack the plastic. When i did, the rubber membrane was pretty dirty, but not awful and the membrane had some slight tears in it-could have been from my screwdriver during removal though?
Anyway, put the new intake tube (snorkel?) on, new PCV, went and test drove it-hard-and could NOT get it to through a code OR the CEL light, which it has ALWAYS done, within 5 minutes of driving for the last year. It's been about a month, and we are driving it again and no codes, no issues, and I can tell the turbo is kicking in too.
The funny part it, I did find a pre owned turbo on facebook marketplace, a guy removed his at 40k miles to put in some bigger turbo, $150 for it! but, not going to need it and his turbo does look pretty mint-so I have a spare.
I don't have any smoke from tailpipes either, as some people said that could be a sign of the turbo and or valve seals.
Anyway-car is back running, with zero issues for now-well, I know I need to replace that oil filter gasket thing at some point.
My last post Dec 31st, and this damn car is back to throwing that CEL light! almost made 6 months of problem free driving and shifted it into manual fun mode and rallied around the back roads the other day and bam-light came on, *****!
That snorkel change seemed to have fixed all my problems (and the pcv cap that I changed)...car doesnt leak oil, burn oil, nothing funny out of exhaust pipes.
Growing to hate this car.
SO what do you think, just go through all the same checks? maybe this snorkel is a lemon? its not OEM? but problem free for 6 months....I still have that spare turbo I found on facebook, was hoping I didn't have to go through that nightmare install, but as I think I said in the previous posts, the turbo looks clean and good inside when I stuck a pen camera in there.
Same codes? Different codes? Could be related, could be coincidence…
Same code, the 2c57....I just drove it 40 miles today, after a reset, drove it kinda easy and no CEL light....seems like it only does it on hard driving, or hills maybe. My bluedriver wont check any boost stuff and im also reading if I got a more advanced reader, I can use 'acutation' to trigger some things to better diagnose?
If it only happens when driving hard, I would check the diverter valve on the turbo, also. Make sure it’s not sticking or leaking. Doesn’t sound like you did that yet.
x2 on the turbo diverter valve, or DV valve some places, is a common failure point with that code. There's a diaphragm inside that can crack. You can take it apart and check the diaphragm and reinstall, or just replace.
Also x2 on the wastegate actuator, shouldn't be sticking open, and should be fully closed at 15 in-hg vacuum. This was a problem for me, with code 2c58 which may or may not be related to 2c57, depends.
DV valve and wastegate issues coincide well with throwing turbo related codes on smooth pulls uphill (example: cruise set with a moderate uphill grade) when the car is wanting to make a little bit of boost.
