a couple of weeks ago I got "hit by a deer" that ran into my passenger side doors. I was lucky enough that (1) the damage was only on the doors and (2) I was able to find two matching color doors at a junkyard not far from here.

Last week I put the doors on the car, when I put the car back together the power door locks didn't work, everything else was good. On Tuesday I took the door apart again and found that I had forgotten to plug the door latch into the wiring harness. So I thought I was finished... But nooooooo. The windows don't work, the headlights stay on, the turn signals don't work. But the power door locks work!

Both times I had disconnected the battery from the car thinking that you don't want to be playing with connections to airbag sensors with the power on. But no! Apparently there is a "fault" in the design of the footwell module that controls all of those things that some times when you disconnect and reconnect the battery you get a voltage spike on the module and it erases its memory. So my FRM was dead, with the passenger window down since that's how you get the glass out.

The usual process is to take the car to the dealer and pay $1700 or so for new footwell module, the 5 minutes to put it in and then get it recoded to the car.

Fortunately there are other solutions. I sent mine off to "The ECU Pro" in eastern PA, they tested it, validated that its memory was scrambled, reprogrammed it and re-injected the coding so that it's plug and play. The module is on its way back and hopefully I'll be done with this deer incident, all I have left to do is adjust the window once I can put it all the way up.

Anyway, the tech told me that jumping the car and/or disconnecting/reconnecting the battery can cause this, which seems like a serious design flaw. and apparently this same FRM is used in a number of BMW products as well and has the same issues.

they recommend that I connect the battery before installing the FRM, which goes against everything I've ever known about dealing with electronics. But that's what I'll do.

 

Keep us informed. Are you aware of the footwell module recall?

 

I knew of a recall however thought that it was a 10-year limit. My Clubman is a 2012


It's supposed to be back here tomorrow according to the tracking number.

 

I got a notice on my 2013 Clubman that it is in the recall. Mini just hasn't developed the remedy yet. My interpretation of that is that there aren't enough modules available for replacement.

You should check Mini's website for recall information on your specific VIN.

 

Well, the module came back supposedly repaired. I installed it and still no windows and the lights are on. I get an immediate "lighting" failure

But this time I can't read any codes from the FRM, it is just "not there"

I took it out and sent it back to The ECU Pro and they now found a short in the module that wasn't there the first time and it's "dead" so I have to replace it. They're loading up a replacement with my coding and going to send it to me (for an additional fee for the replacement)

I followed their install directions, made sure the battery was fully charged with my trickle charger for two days and connected before I installed the FRM.

more to come, but really? I've changed no more wiring in the car from where it was before I sent the module off to them the first time and there was no short then. Are these things really THAT fragile?

 

any update?

 

The replacement FRM came back from The ECU Pro on tuesday, I plugged it in on Wednesday and all is good. I'm still getting some odd code from the DSC (stability control) about low voltage though, but teh folks at ECU Pro told me that it's not related. I was really nervous plugging the thing in since it appears that these things are really that fragile. Word to the wise if you have to change your battery, watch out for this. (I'd be tempted to put a charger on the battery leads while I was taking the battery out to keep the voltage to the car constant)

But my windows, turn signals, door locks, headlights, interior lights and tail lights all work now.

 

Thanks for the update.

FRMs from the factory are coming slowly back in stock. Most were Back Order from MINI. Also an aftermarket version. Seems like when installing these you have to make sure their is not voltage drop/spike.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...tronic-module/

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-dorman-p...hed/502-095kt/

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-problems.html

 

yea, the biggest challenge is "how" you make sure there is no voltage spike.

Mine croaked because I disconnected the battery so that I could plug all of the stuff in the door.

 

BTW, the guys from ECU Pro told me that the new ones have the same sensitivity to voltage spikes as the originals, so the design has clearly not changed.

 

This guy posted up the how to on the battery, sleep mode on the footwell to avoid issues with changing the battery: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-problems.html

Sleep mode changing battery: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...on-my-r56.html

 

I'm having a similar issue and I was told that they are reimbursing folks who had to pay to replace their FRM if your car is eligible for the recall because they don't have the new FRM yet for the recall.

 

Yep my R58 is not on the recall/reimburse list.

 

Last I looked the recall/extneded warranty was only good for 10 years. Mine's a '12 so that ship has sailed

 

I have a 2010 and the shop just assured me that my car is eligible for the recall. You are probably eligible.

You can search by VIN

https://www.miniusa.com/owners/tools...rt/recall.html

 

"No safety or recalls for my VIN"

too bad, it cost me $499 to get the FRM replaced and coded to my car by the ECU Pros. would have loved to get that taken care of by Mini!

 

Embarrassing, that BMW could build a vehicle this sensitive to battery swapping/discharging/charging/,vehicle repairs.

 

I just my repaired FRM module back from ECU Pro and just like you said they are telling me to plug the battery in and make sure it's fully charged BEFORE installing the repaired FRM - this goes against everything I know when working on a car. I've looked through numerous threads and it seems to be 50/50 on whether to disconnect the battery or connect it when reinstalling the FRM. Anybody have any knowledge on what is the best thing to do? To disconnect or connect the battery - that is the question

 

When I must do any electrical work, I first remove all 4 FRM fuses and then disconnect the battery cable(s) to prevent subjecting the FRM to potentially damaging voltage spikes.

Upon completion of my electrical work, I first reconnect the battery cable(s) and then reinstall the 4 FRM fuses.

 

when I reinstall this repaired FRM do you recommend doing it with the battery connected or disconnected?

 

1) Remove the 4 FRM fuses.
2) Disconnect battery.
3) Reinstall repaired FRM.
4) Reconnect battery.
5) Reinstall the 4 FRM fuses.

 

thank you!

 

Hmm, I got my R57 with a completely flat battery.
Replaced it with a new battery & had off & on FRM faults since.
Curious if it's temperature sensitive as well. It's been fault free for a bit over a week since the temps have come down outside.

 

I'm enjoying the cooler weather in east Texas. Monitor to see how long your car remains fault free. When the car has faults, what are the symptoms and fault codes?

 

Not sure on the codes, I'll have to pull them when it happens again. At least, whichever my BlueDriver can see. I do recall a FRM code last time.
Symptoms, no door windows, no instrument lights, no self cancel blinkers & no blinker tick. And the 'Mini on a lift' icon in the upper tach display.