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JCW struts or other comparable priced / performance version
Blown a strut over the last rain storm. Looking for suggestions comparable to JCW oem. Appreciate if anyone can share their experience that handles well but not checking for kidney stones every time going over a pothole
You were still running the OEM black struts? Are you still running the OEM springs, or did you go aftermarket?
Believe it or not, there was no difference between JCW shocks and struts vs the Cooper S versions. They were both the same piece. The only difference was between "Regular" and "Sport" suspension, which was a separate check box on the configuration sheet.
If I were you, I would get Bilstein B6 shocks if still on OEM springs, and B8s if you have aftermarket lowering springs.
You'll probably get suggestions for Koni FSD, but I had bad experiences with Koni, so....
I think the shocks are black, car is in the shop with OEM JCW springs. I will go with Bilstein. Trying to figure out b6 or B8 would work w OEM springs though
I didn't read your response carefully, I should go w B6.
B6 and B8 will work. B6 or B4 for stock is what most people run, remember JCW springs only lower like 10mm ~0.39" so they are very mild lowering compared to most aftermarket/performance springs which are are 1-2" drop.
Either B6 or B8 will work just fine with stock springs. B6 and B8 are built with the same damping profiles, but B8 are designed to work better with lowering springs. Stock OEM springs, get the B6. I would also at the least get new front upper mounts.
The front upper mounts are made from a big block of rubber. Over time, the rubber gets hard and can start cracking. The ride can get harsh from the rubber getting hard from age. Also, the bearings can take a beating. You'll have to take it all apart to swap the struts, so it would be worth it to replace the front upper mounts. Would stink to get the job done, then realize you have clunky bearings in the strut mounts and have to do it all over again.
Really appreciate everyone's inputs! Tie rods been rusted and need blowtorch to loosen them before alignment the last two times. Would you think it shouldn't be too much extra work to replace tie rods while doing struts and upper mounts as well?
Really appreciate everyone's inputs! Tie rods been rusted and need blowtorch to loosen them before alignment the last two times. Would you think it shouldn't be too much extra work to replace tie rods while doing struts and upper mounts as well?
Good time to do that work since most of it is apart anyway.
B6 and B8 will work. B6 or B4 for stock is what most people run, remember JCW springs only lower like 10mm ~0.39" so they are very mild lowering compared to most aftermarket/performance springs which are are 1-2" drop.
Will JCW springs work on a BASE R56 Cooper (hatchback, not Clubman)? On my track Mini I'm putting camber plates in with (possibly) new shocks and would love to lower the car just that little bit.
Got the car back from the shop, the after alignment report showing all 4 cambers are pointing in a little bit off midpoint and the readouts dont seem like they are too far off. I haven't been taking corners spiritedly since the backend feels like it's sliding out. Everything supposed to be tight, I asked them to torque engine mount, subframe brace after rear control arm replaced w adjustable versions. I hate to think the poor handling is to due to the difference in brand new B8 in the front vs 9 yrs old rear OEM struts. I m dropping it off and have them adjust the cambers to be as neutral as possible and drive it again before making any parts swapping. Pls let me know if I m missing something, thanks!
Last edited by Gelmobile; Aug 14, 2023 at 02:14 PM.
Actually, those numbers don’t look too bad. I would have held off until you installed the rear shocks, however. Might need to get another alignment after that.
The scary handling could be related to the mismatched shocks, and the worn factory shocks in the rear. The Bilsteins and much firmer than OEM, and the worn shocks on the back and going to make the car feel like riding on marshmallows compared to the Bilsteins.
Actually, those numbers don’t look too bad. I would have held off until you installed the rear shocks, however. Might need to get another alignment after that.
The scary handling could be related to the mismatched shocks, and the worn factory shocks in the rear. The Bilsteins and much firmer than OEM, and the worn shocks on the back and going to make the car feel like riding on marshmallows compared to the Bilsteins.
I was driving it very cautiously the last couple of days.
Today it pulls more to the left. I agree, the numbers are not too far off, all within spec.
And I hate to do the rear but it make perfect sense for new vs. 9 yr old struts.
I already paid for the first alignment, I am not sure if they can do a proper assessment without
realigning first. I may just ask them what they recommend and get ready to open up the piggy bank.
Considering you went full performance with the B8 shocks in the front, they are exaggerating the worn rear shocks. The damping in the rear can’t keep up with the control in the front. Your car will feel much more planted and stable if you get the rear done.
Well last service advisor told me they installed B8 on the front. She left since then. The new service advisor told me that B4s are the OEM struts that they installed to the front.
What are the default shocks on JCWs? B4 or B6s? Regardless, since they installed B4s, may as well get them on the back as well.
I hope the handling doesn't suffer to be more sloppy than before...sigh.....
First, go check and see what's listed on the service report. What does the report claim they used? Then, go look under the front. If they are yellow, they are either B6 or B8 shocks. If they are black, they are B4s. Then, whatever was actually installed to the front, get the same bits for the rear.
Those are the originals, and B4s would be OEM replacements. B6 or B8s would be OEM+ performance replacements. If you had the fronts replaced, what was installed to the car? What ever they put on, I would get the matching rear set.