Has anyone else been frustrated by the belt tensioner shock's short life? That thing leaks oil within a year or two, then soaks its rubber bushings which rot out and the whole thing rattles around, then you gotta replace the whole dang tensioner for a hundred bucks! The tensioner isn't that easy to replace either.

I found the shock only, available at https://www.autohausaz.com/. P/N: UR-11288620210D. It's URO brand, we'll see how it holds up. Cost is 20 bucks. Also, you can replace the shock relatively easily!

The engine on my 2005 had been sounding kinda clattery and I suspected (hoped) it was the belt / tensioner. It was. I had purchased the delrin bushings for that shock at some point, and I think they contribute to the noise because unlike bonded rubber bushings, they have a little bit of play. One end was about .005" bigger on the ID which I think is from wear, so they had to be making a little noise. The shock was way past done as well, so who knows where the noise was really coming from, probably both shock and bushings. I put in the new shock with its stock rubber bushings, put the delrin ones in the spares box, checked the tensioner and idler pulleys for bearing issues (they were fine), installed a new belt, and oh man, it has that sweet purr again.

This tensioner design is a thorn in our sides IMHO. Most cars have much simpler ones that almost never go bad, other than the bearing occasionally. Why is this one so complex, spendy and has this weak failure point? But if I can just replace that shock every couple years for $20, that's not so bad.

 

Amazon had it for $73. Not exactly that pricey, considering what's involved.
If it fails again, I'll order one from FCP euro, pay the premium and have a free lifetime replacement.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/min...09476#warranty

Does it solve the issue with it failing or having to spend the time on repairing? No. But, it's a wear item and will fail eventually.

 

Can you tell me the steps needed to do this? What approach , top of the car or bottom? Looks like the motor mount is in the way if from the top. Did you have to "pull" the tensioner spring to second hole or just leave it alone to change it?

Thanks!!

 

Angry - fair point, and the LTW is cool. For me though, I've seen that the shock wears out like 5x faster than the bearing, so I'm glad to be able to just replace that part.

Isk - from the top. This time I was in a little deeper for other reasons so I don't remember for absolute sure, but I think you can replace the shock without removing anything else except maybe that VSV that's right by the mount. Worst case, remove the upper engine mount. No, you don't have to take tension off the belt because you are only changing the shock. It's held on by a 13mm head bolt on each end. I think you can access the rear one from the top, behind the engine mount, and the front bolt from in front of it, with a 13mm box end wrench.

 

I've always wondered if these had to be replaced. Or if you can swap out the wear parts (bushings, shock, and pulley)

 

I've had my Mini since 2013...almost 10 years...and this is the first time I've found the shock avail separately. I found them for Mercedes, but not for the Mini. Til now!

 

I just installed a replacement on Tigger ('05 MCS, 195k miles) from Pelican Parts, I also installed a set of Poly bushings while I was at it.
isk- I pulled the motor mount bracket to get at it, even then it was a bit of a contortionists act getting the lower bolt started. You don't have to mess with the tension or the belt to do this. Be sure to put a board between the sump and your trolley jack, the level of the engine is a key to easy reinstallation of the motor mount bracket, if the engine is higher or lower than the motor mount wants, the large 10mm bolts won't line up. If your cam position sensor is leaking, this is a good time to replace either the o-ring or the sensor as its right there.
HTH,

 

that's odd, I've seen them for sale all over the place

 

Well clearly I was not enlightened! LOL

 

Thanks for the new(to me) link for AutohausAZ; was not aware of them until now. Bookmarked.

That URO damper is also available at Rock Auto for ~$20
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...r+damper,11663

 

Litens was the oem of the tensioner back in the day.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html


11288620210D is good, never heard anything bad, stabilus i believe was oem which we carry. They make all the factory MINI hood and hatch struts.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit.../11288620210D/

 

Oreilly Auto Parts sells the Gates belt tensioner with the Stabilus shock , an exact OEM replacement.