Do you have to rotate the rear pistons as you compress them? I haven't changed brake pads on a JCW before, but I know on my gen 1 and gen 2 Minis you had to rotate the rear pistons with a special tool. I watched a video, but the guy just used a C-clamp to compress the rears and I was surprised it worked.

My local shop wanted $1700, so I'll just do it myself. It's not that hard, so I was surprised by the estimate. And I still have the piston compression set, so I should be ok, just trying to make sure I'm prepared.

Thanks!

 

Don’t you have an electronic brake in the JCW Clubman? Pretty sure there is a completely different set of instructions for those rear calipers.

 

Yeah it has an e-brake. Maybe that's why it's not threaded like the older ones?

 

*** EDIT ***

I was wrong below. Just swapped in some EBC yellow stuffs and the piston needed a 2-pin retraction tool, not 3. I must be thinking of our 2014 BMW X3 that had 3 pins.

Anyway, the generic 25-piece eBay/Amazon retraction tool set worked great.

*** End EDIT ***

I don’t have a JCW, but I definitely needed to twist them in on my 2017 Clubman S ALL4.

It was a challenge too because my universal fit brake retraction tool didn’t fit. The Clubman needed a 3-point tool. My tool had a bunch of 2 and 4 point options.

Kinda like this



I’ve always used one like this, but it wouldn't work on my Clubman. This thread reminds me I need to order the proper tool for next time…

 

Well I guess I'll find out once the new pads get here. 3 holes could be a problem though...

I should see what all is in the kit that I have. I got it forever ago and it's been at least 5 years since I've done brakes.

 

This was the only video I could find of someone changing the rear JCW brakes. And he used just a c-clamp on the rear pistons (though this is an F56):

I didn't read the comments at the time, but I read them just now and yeah, people are telling him he should have rotated them and he got lucky.

The rears in the video very clearly have 2 little dots for rotating, but again, this is an F56 and not a Clubman.

 

I watched this video on changing rear pads on a BMW with e-brakes, and maybe it will be similar to this. You don't turn the piston at all, but you do have to disconnect the electric motor and manually retract the inner part. Very interesting.

 

And I found some posts on a different MINI forum that made it sound like they rotate in, despite the e-brake. I guess it'll be a surprise.

I also found some BMW posts about using Bimmerlink to retract the rear piston through the computer, but nothing about a similar thing for MINIs.

 

I recently had our 2017 Mini Coopers S Clubman All4 inspected here in PA. I was informed that the front rotors and brake pads would soon need to be changed. Mini dealer cost to me was just short of $1,000. I ended up swapping 2 new rotors and new pads( with new pad wear sensor wire ) for less than $300. My rears were still okay and I would like to know also had to do the rears when that time comes.

 

I'm still waiting for parts to arrive, but I'll update when I get a chance. Should be by the end of the year.

 

I changed all four corners today, and the rears were mostly the same procedure, with one additional step. You have to remove the electric motor from the back of the caliper, and then it's business as usual. I took a couple pictures, but I didn't see the need for a full how-to since it's pretty standard otherwise.



On the top side of the caliper, you can see the black electric motor. There are two 5mm allen bolts attaching it to the caliper.



This is what it looks like once you remove the motor. I disconnected the electrical connection, but I don't think it's completely necessary. Just one less wire to get in the way.

Other than that, proceed as usual with your rear caliper compression tool. I used the same 2-prong attachment as on previous MINIs I've done over the years.

 

Came to say the same thing. I unplugged them, and pulled the 2 allen bolts out and the motor just comes off. Then you can use a normal brake caliper compressor/rotator tool. The golden 'cube' one didn't work for me, so I bought a $25 kit on Amazon that did work just fine and easily. Don't forget to take the cap off your master cylinder reservoir to make the compression a bit easier. After you're done, I had to engage the e-brake two or three times to get it to wind back in all the way, but it ended up just fine with no MILs or anything.

 

I bought a caliper compression kit way back from harbor freight about 15 years ago thinking I'd just use it a couple times, but it came in handy once again.

I bought a dual caliper compression tool that I thought would work on the giant front calipers, but it wouldn't fit through the opening. Ended up using a couple of C-clamps. Oh well.

 

Therefore, the use of a diagnostic tool is not required to retract the EPB; upon removal of the motor, the piston can be manually rotated in a clockwise direction to return it to its original position. Have I summarized that correctly?

 

The piston can be pushed back in with a c-clamp or piston compression tool like . I'm not saying to buy this particular one, but that is the style that I have and did buy off of Amazon years ago. As far as the EPB, you still have to screw that back in as well...look on youtube for a rear brakes replacement with EPB for BMW x1 or x2 for explanation. Here's I watched....