I was checking my Bentleys because when I watch the videos of replacing the water pump and main belt there is a reference to a second way of using a special tool from MINI. My Bentleys manual doesn't discuss the process with this special tool at all. Are there videos that describe this alternative process of water pump removal or do I really need this special tool?

 

When I did the timing chain service, I took off the front motor mount(all 3 pieces) completely and used the bottle jack placed underneath the oil pan and with a little up and down sequence, I was able to get to the three bolts by using my ¼ inch drive ratchet

 

If you are talking about the special tool to remove the belt, its for the tensioner, i watched the 1A Auto video and they said it was a 21mm, but that was wrong it's a 30mm. I picked up a 30mm open end husky from home depot and it work just fine.

 

So my Bentley manual doesn't say anything about a special tool for this.
Is this so you don't have to remove the headlight and Hood support or something? I can see the gigantic nut that needs to be turned to put the tensioner in the service position....

 

I just went through this - from what I can tell there are two nut sizes for the tensioner and thats why when you buy the special tool online you get TWO long tools that are essentially custom bent thin box wrenches.
I was able to put a 30MM box wrench on the nut, from the TOP and move it enough to remove the belt off the alternator pully thru the wheelwell with the fender liner removed. - I could not move it enough to get the pin engaged.
There was a minimal amount of swing. I did not have the top bracket or charge hose removed which would make this easier and allow more room from up top.
Once I got the belt off, I used a bottle jack and an extension to jack on the bottom of the adjustment pully enough to get the pin in place and set the pin.
I did my repair which was a front oil seal.
THEN, making sure the belt was in the grooves, I used the butt of a hammer and pushed slightly up on the tensioner from the bottom and the pin sprung loose and everything went back into place.

 

Thanks.
Was the problem movement only? How much force does it take to move the nut?
I am thinking I am going to try this?

30mm Jumbo Crowfoot Wrench CRV

With a socket extension, I believe I can have the socket handle right at the A/C inlet which I can disconnect and temporarily move. This would allow me to have the socket handle at 45degrees and allow me to swing it forward almost a full 120 degrees or so. It cost $10 and it would allow me to do everything from the top as a "one person".

It might slip off if it takes a lot of force but with my left hand, I can hold the wrench against that big nut.

 

Was the special tool the Serpentine Belt removal tool? When I replaced my Timing Chain, i had to order the Serpentine belt tool, which was a 2 pack custom wrench. I used that to loosen the tension on the Serpentine belt, then removed the belt. Then I removed the engine frames and was able to access the water pump.
FCP Euro has an amazing video on YouTube on replacing the R56 timing Chains for 2007-2010 years. It shows how to remove that Serpentine belt, with the special tool, along with removing the engine frames and everything else to get to the water pump.

 

Why buy an expensive, not very robust, non-standard "special tool", when the job can be done with a standardized wrench of regular (i.e. higher) strength and lower price?

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4511904

PS/Edit: N12 and N14 engines require a 21mm wrench, N16 and N18 engines a 30mm wrench (or the respective, equivalent inch size).

 

$43 wasn't expensive, to say the least. not considering I did my timing chain project for about $565, with buying the tools instead of the 2200 to 2600 the shop was gonna charge.

 

You're comparing apples to oranges.


(This tool is made in Germany by one of the leading manufacturers and supplier to professionals).

 

my n14 had a 30 mm, I bought a 21mm thinking the same thing and was wrong. I picked up a husky 30mm open end from Home Depot and it worked, I did mine while I was replacing the core support so it was a little bit easier to get to the tensioner.

 

From factory?

 

third owner so I honestly don’t know. From what I can see and have been finding on mine, it appears everything was replaced at least once with newer oem parts. Water pump had metal blades, thermostat already was newer design, that stupid tensioner being 30mm, oil return off turbo already SS line. The 2 previous owners loved this car, all maintenance was done at a mini dealership, minus a few oil changes.

 

that tool is $23 from Amazon. The only way it will work is access via the bottom. By purchasing the Crow-wrench, I believe I can access it from the top because I can use an extension to offset it, the same place where you lock it. Also, it only cost $10.

We'll see. If it doesn't work then I'll have to go your way.

 

I'm curious whether a crow-wrench will work. Applying the tool from above is less of a problem than having the space to turn it enough in order to engage the lock. It being a "6-point" (instead of a "12-point" design) may be the problem.

PS.: My posts above were both meant to be replies to 302Vernon, NOT your suggestion of a crow-wrench. Apologies for not making that clear.

 

Yeah, I don't know. I'll come back and post if it works or doesn't. I see the problem being there is no room for the wrench to go forward and backwards. However, if you go 2 or 3 inches over to the AC coolant low or high pressure line which can actually be disconnected and moved, there is plenty of room for the handle of the wrench to go up and down. It will come down to how much force is necessary to move this nut because the offset will loose some force. I don't think it will take too much for it to turn since you are probably just pulling against a spring....?

 

Does anyone know which way this turns looking from the top to release or take pressure off to lock?

 

Clockwise.

 

So not righty tightly, lefty lousy. Interesting.

 

The tool is just used as a lever. Search for images of "prince engine" in order to see the arrangement of the belt, pulleys and tensioner.