F55/F56 Remanufactured alternator ok for Mini, or no??
Remanufactured alternator ok for Mini, or no??
Hi all! I have a 2015 Mini Cooper 4dr hardtop 1.5L 3cyl. The car has 51,000 miles on it, and the alternator just went out. I took it to the shop and have been quoted $1,375 to fix ($725 for alternator from Mini, $550 for labor)
I have had SO many issues with this car... Even though I love it, it does not have that many miles to have so many issues. I have shelled out thousands to this car so far in maintenance.
So my question is... can I buy a less expensive remanufactured alternator, or will this harm the car? The guy at the shop said he wouldn't do that, but I want to see if anyone else has any input, or if they have any experience with doing this? I don't want to waste time/money if this is the wrong move.
If I can't bring the cost of this repair WAY down, I am highly considering just selling the car, and getting into something else that isn't as costly. I am willing to replace the alternator myself, though it may take all day, to cut the cost.
Any answers are appreciated! Thank you!!
I have had SO many issues with this car... Even though I love it, it does not have that many miles to have so many issues. I have shelled out thousands to this car so far in maintenance.
So my question is... can I buy a less expensive remanufactured alternator, or will this harm the car? The guy at the shop said he wouldn't do that, but I want to see if anyone else has any input, or if they have any experience with doing this? I don't want to waste time/money if this is the wrong move.
If I can't bring the cost of this repair WAY down, I am highly considering just selling the car, and getting into something else that isn't as costly. I am willing to replace the alternator myself, though it may take all day, to cut the cost.
Any answers are appreciated! Thank you!!
The reason the shop won't use a reman, is that the labor isn't covered for them in case of failure.
Replacing the alternator is a daunting task.
If you are willing to risk redoing it again yourself, then go for it.
Replacing the alternator is a daunting task.
If you are willing to risk redoing it again yourself, then go for it.
& thank you for the part link!
Pretty sure I will end up buying that one when it comes down to it

It might be daunting, but it's well within the scope of a home mechanic!
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...rts/1VnXpJ39aZ
Note preliminary tasks do include removing a body cross-connector, a servo motor and the serpentine belt. So it's not nothing, but not anything requiring special tools or training.
DISCLAIMER: I haven't done this on the F-series, so maybe take this with a bit of salt. I've done it on american and japanese cars. BMW will always find a way to make it more complex, but this one would not distress me. Half day, maybe? (I'm not fast, but I'm careful.) Honestly I'm a little surprised it's not harder than this. I'd rather do this than walnut blast the valves.
edit: If you can't access the TIS site, send me a PM and I'll send you PDF of the instructions.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...rts/1VnXpJ39aZ
Note preliminary tasks do include removing a body cross-connector, a servo motor and the serpentine belt. So it's not nothing, but not anything requiring special tools or training.
DISCLAIMER: I haven't done this on the F-series, so maybe take this with a bit of salt. I've done it on american and japanese cars. BMW will always find a way to make it more complex, but this one would not distress me. Half day, maybe? (I'm not fast, but I'm careful.) Honestly I'm a little surprised it's not harder than this. I'd rather do this than walnut blast the valves.

edit: If you can't access the TIS site, send me a PM and I'll send you PDF of the instructions.
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PDF please.
It might be daunting, but it's well within the scope of a home mechanic!
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...rts/1VnXpJ39aZ
Note preliminary tasks do include removing a body cross-connector, a servo motor and the serpentine belt. So it's not nothing, but not anything requiring special tools or training.
DISCLAIMER: I haven't done this on the F-series, so maybe take this with a bit of salt. I've done it on american and japanese cars. BMW will always find a way to make it more complex, but this one would not distress me. Half day, maybe? (I'm not fast, but I'm careful.) Honestly I'm a little surprised it's not harder than this. I'd rather do this than walnut blast the valves.
edit: If you can't access the TIS site, send me a PM and I'll send you PDF of the instructions.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...rts/1VnXpJ39aZ
Note preliminary tasks do include removing a body cross-connector, a servo motor and the serpentine belt. So it's not nothing, but not anything requiring special tools or training.
DISCLAIMER: I haven't done this on the F-series, so maybe take this with a bit of salt. I've done it on american and japanese cars. BMW will always find a way to make it more complex, but this one would not distress me. Half day, maybe? (I'm not fast, but I'm careful.) Honestly I'm a little surprised it's not harder than this. I'd rather do this than walnut blast the valves.

edit: If you can't access the TIS site, send me a PM and I'll send you PDF of the instructions.
How in the heck do you actually *remove* alternator (once bolts are removed...per Haynes video.)
It is such a tight spot.
Pls. Advise. Thanks!
To the OP:
I've torn out pretty much everything actually necessary to swap the alternator and put it back. TIS instructions include that servo motor but IMO you don't have to pull it. In a 3 cyl the Haynes video should be spot-on. In a 4-cyl (the Cooper S) things are far tighter and even then that servo motor still doesn't have to come out to replace the alt. I mention that because there are additional things to do if you pull the servo motor -- a seal replacement, maybe something additional if memory serves, if you pull the servo motor. I'd stick with the Haynes and not even go there.
To be clear, nothing against TIS, it's the authoritative source, but if the *only* reason to remove the servo motor is to get the alternator out -- you don't need to remove the servo motor to get the alternator out. Don't remove anything you don't have to. I would review the Haynes video in detail since you have a 3 cyl.
Regarding reman vs genuine vs whatever, if you are 100% certain you need to replace the alternator, I recommend checking out Maniac Electric Motors. I have been dealing with them in the context of my other vehicle (late '90s Subaru) and am still running (in that vehicle) on a high-output alternator from them purchased so long ago I can't even remember (early 2000s?). Original contact (Christian) is still there. They know their stuff, they make good stuff, they stand behind their stuff, and their pricing is simultaneously better than Genuine MINI and justified by the quality and care. When the day comes that I have to replace the alt in my 2017 F56S I am putting in one of theirs, the end full stop.
Hope this is helpful.
I've torn out pretty much everything actually necessary to swap the alternator and put it back. TIS instructions include that servo motor but IMO you don't have to pull it. In a 3 cyl the Haynes video should be spot-on. In a 4-cyl (the Cooper S) things are far tighter and even then that servo motor still doesn't have to come out to replace the alt. I mention that because there are additional things to do if you pull the servo motor -- a seal replacement, maybe something additional if memory serves, if you pull the servo motor. I'd stick with the Haynes and not even go there.
To be clear, nothing against TIS, it's the authoritative source, but if the *only* reason to remove the servo motor is to get the alternator out -- you don't need to remove the servo motor to get the alternator out. Don't remove anything you don't have to. I would review the Haynes video in detail since you have a 3 cyl.
Regarding reman vs genuine vs whatever, if you are 100% certain you need to replace the alternator, I recommend checking out Maniac Electric Motors. I have been dealing with them in the context of my other vehicle (late '90s Subaru) and am still running (in that vehicle) on a high-output alternator from them purchased so long ago I can't even remember (early 2000s?). Original contact (Christian) is still there. They know their stuff, they make good stuff, they stand behind their stuff, and their pricing is simultaneously better than Genuine MINI and justified by the quality and care. When the day comes that I have to replace the alt in my 2017 F56S I am putting in one of theirs, the end full stop.
Hope this is helpful.
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