This is my 2nd MINI that I have had for a 1 1/2 years now and just like my last one that I had to sell, this thing burns so much oil. It is an '11 Clubman S with only 125k on it. When I bought it, it smoked a little until I changed the oil. Then it didn't burn anything for a while, until it did and won't stop. Oil changes don't fix it unlike the first time I did. Brand new valve cover just recently. I don't have a large commute, with my job only being 8 miles away and yet it's about a quart every couple weeks. I love the car, but unless I can fix this with Engine Restore, I'm not sure how much longer I can do it.

 

A 2011 should have an N18 engine... If it’s burning much oil, I would suspect either turbo shaft seal or valve stem seals.

OR, try running a slightly thicker oil weight. If your using 5w30, try bumping up to a 5w40 and see if that changes anything.

 

I tried thicker oil at one point, and my oil light stayed on for a week or so. I'm not sure if I have the ability to distinguish between the seals or shaft, but I'm going to go with the turbo.

 

I just ordered a new turbocharger. That thing does make a high pitch squeaking sound upon startup until it warms up enough, so maybe there's a chance this will fix it. Other than a filter and oil, what else do I need? Do I need to take the manifold off?

 

On your next change do an liqui moly engine flush and make sure everything drains out, I left it there for 30 minutes, then do liqui moly 5w-40 and a bottle of liqui moly motor oil saver. I was burning 1 qt every 1200 to 1500. As of now I’m at 1 qt 2100 miles.

 

so 2 oil changes right away...damn

 

I mean it can wait till your next one. Just before you drain the oil drive the car up to temp, when you get home pour engine flush in and let idle for 10-15 minutes. Then let it drain till nothing is coming out, I did my filter, check other fluids, couple vapes, then when nothing was coming out that was when I plugged her back up and filled, motor oil saver first then the oil, I used an oem filter, but the purflux are the same thing minus mini badge. I have pretty much used only castrol edge before this and I’m pretty sold on liqui moly now. Engine has seem to run quieter and smoother so this will be my 10k treatment.

 

Do you mean you drove it for a week with the oil pressure light on? And you’re wondering why you’re burning oil?

 

check valve cover for cracks, or any vac lines that look old, like any modern bmw they are are very sensitive to vac leaks and need a lot of crankcase negative pressure or you get lots of oil past rings/seals

 

Respectfully, I think you are missing an important point. The OP said that his oil light was on for a week. If that is the case, the whole engine is scrap and the valve cover is the least of his problems.

 

uh no, this was an ongoing issue long before i ever experienced that. the oil light was on because I used a different weight, and it came on immediately after I filled it. it went on and off too.
I'll try to get in there and look when I'm in there this weekend. valve cover is new. didn't change anything.
got the flush in the mail over the weekend. according to the can i can throw it in with the current oil. HOPING I can get this done this week over the Christmas break.


anything I'm missing? I'll get the oil and filter this week.

 

Hard for me to believe that changing oil weight would make the oil light come on. What weight oil did you use?

 

As for the flush yes you can add to your current oil, that’s why I said you could wait till your next oil change and do it right before you drain. I had only 2000 miles on the oil when I did mine.

 

My thoughts exactly. I have heard of no oil pressure with very thick oil at very low temperatures, as the oil was too thick to pump, but we're talking 15/50 at 0F.

To get the light coming on with (I'm assuming) a slightly thicker grade is not right. Something else must have been wrong. A blockage? Problem with the oil filter? Not enough oil? Who knows.

As I keep saying, if the OP really did drive it for a week with the light coming on, his engine is toast. For the avoidance of doubt, about a second is the right amount of time to run an engine with the oil pressure light lit.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...on-my-oil.html
I see. Well both of those suggestions came in now. I have the liqui moly flush and oil saver. You add the oil saver to reach the oil capacity, right? not capacity +saver
ok, I am not making this up. The light was not on because it was low. I made a thread about this...https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...on-my-oil.html

 

1. Add engine flush to warm engine oil and let run 10 to 15 minutes.
2. Drain completely and replace drain plug
3. change oil filter
4. motor oil saver then oil to capacity. There are post here where they just throw the whole 5 qts, not what I’d recommend.

 

Hairy
At this point, I think I'd get a real oil pressure test done with a real oil pressure gauge. It's possible that the oil pressure sender is misleading you, though that doesn't explain the oil loss. Short runs certainly won't help, as the engine is barely up to temperature in only 8 miles.
MINIs like their oil anyway!
Is there any blue smoke accelerating? = rings
Any decelerating? = valve stem seals
Is the back of the car oily?
Any drips under the car or down the engine block?

 

I'd also suggest doing a compression test. I think a few basic checks on engine health before you go any further, great idea on the oil pressure test.

 

yes while accelerating i have seen it do it, decelerating i can't confirm. the back of the car is not oily and there is a small seep coming from the turbo's oil line.

I think I am going to tackle this tomorrow. I live almost 2 hours from my tools so I'm hoping the weather doesn't ruin my day. can anyone confirm if I need to remove the manifold to replace the turbo?
I have a compression checker but I'm not sure if the package includes a metric plug. I'll get onto that next chance I get.

 

Hairy
Before you start tearing into it, I'd do some more diagnostics. I can't see a "small seep" affecting the oil pressure much, if at all.
I'd do a straightforward quality filter & oil change. While the filter is off, check the drain-back & relief valves in the housing. Be sure the new filter goes in the right way up.

 

On my 08 N12, I cured my oil consumption with a valve cover and valve seals. I have 239,000 miles on it, and no oil consumption of any kind anymore.

 

right and the light hasn't been on in quite some time. it's the oil consumption I'm after. it's very very bad. I'm really hoping this replacement and the oil saver does something. if not...fml
that's good. It has a new valve cover. I'll have to address anything further after this.

 

Update
Spent all day yesterday installing the new turbo. When I got done I noticed my oil line leak was very significant. The washers it came with went to absolutely nothing,I didn't realize that until I got into it, and I may have wasted some time getting new ones at the part store, but I have exact fits coming from the dealer. Turns out it's the line. I couldn't put that in if I even had it anyways with how spent I was, but I have managed to save the line for the time being with some sealant. No noticeable leak. But anyway, no more whistle and I hear the turbo spooling up sooner. I can expect better performance, however I have problems.
Although I put in the oil saver, it still was smoking even after about 25 minutes into my drive. I can see giving it some time for that.
The engine is bucking at anything more than light throttle. It was slight before, but it's twice as bad now and I have a feeling my mpg is suffering. Maybe the more boost it's able to produce is exaggerating it? Every hose is tight and no CEL light. The one thing I have noticed if the PCV button on the corner of the valve cover is spitting oil directed at the tube that is positioned there and the firewall.
I'm likely not going to be able to do anything to this for a little while now, so I'll have the shop check it out.