I just bought a 2015 Countryman and want to drain the oil and coolant and have a friend who will do it for me for free but he said to just pick a good oil and coolant and bring it over to his garage. I searched and found this

https://www.searchforparts.com/oil-c...n-1.6l-n16b16a

and this seems good

but I like the previous link because of the low toxic coolant which is better for the environment. Not sure where to go from here, maybe you have another recommendation? I have to take something to my friend soon, gotta order soon because he is going on vacation in a few weeks.

Thank you very much for your time!
Minerva

 

I personally use Castrol edge 5w-40 in summer and will switch to 0w-40 once the weather changes. As for coolant get g48 coolant it is bmw/mini specific. Everyone will have a different opinion on oil, trust me one this one, liqui moly, motul, Mobil 1, redline, and castrol will come up in some way shape or form. Just use a good oil and change every 5000 miles, making sure you check it from time to time. As for the oil filter, the OEM, Mann, and purflux all should be sufficient.

 

Yes, lots of previous discussion on oils. I personally use Mobil 1 European Blend but mainly because it is available at a reasonable price locally. Nothing wrong with Castrol, Penzzoil, Amsoil, Redline, Motul etc., just keep with a good quality full synthetic and change earlier than what Mini recommends. The Pennzoil you show recommended for BMW's should work fine. OEM filter is good, I believe Purflux makes the OEM one, and I hear Mann is good. I personally stay away from brands with orange packaging. Change oil frequently, check often.
Stay with BMW/Mini approved coolant and you can't go wrong.

 

In all honesty, any bmw specific oil that you can easily get will be fine. They “tend”, you might get lucky, to burn oil so that’s why go the route I go. I have 3 parts stores with in a mile of my house, they always have castrol edge 0 and 5 w-40, hell even my Kroger has it, was 3.99 a qt last Friday.

 

I went with liquimoly through ecs tuning for my first change: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...1427622446kt4/

I also bought an extra filter, next oil change I plan on using Mobil1 European Blend, I think its 0w-30 or 0w-40(?) because it's available at my local wally-world.

In case you aren't aware, don't go the BMW recommended 10k miles between changes, you should change every 3-5k. You should also be checking your oil frequently until you get an idea if it leaks/burns any, DO NOT LET IT GET LOW.

Coolant, I don't know sorry.

 

Best piece of advice ever. This arent cars that you can just change oil and forget about it till your next one.

 

For coolant, I use Zerex Z48. Easier to find than the BMW coolant since we don't have a local Mini or BMW dealer. Seems to me that I researched it before choosing and it meets the relevant specs.

 

I think you mean Zerex G48, which is bmw/mini specific.

 

This is the one I picked up and used for coolant swap

 

Jason,
Any particular reason you go with 5w-40 as opposed to 5w-30? This came up in a personal conversation. I know my dummy sticker on the engine says to use Mini 5w-30. I also know I've seen in these forums that Mini or BMW has said Mobil1 0w-50 meets their OEM spec 5w-30. I've also seen oil weight vs temperature charts over the years. It's never seemed to me that their is any particular benefit to 30 or 40w in the U.S.

I guess what I am asking is, why do some (Mini and/or BMW) say "x" brand 5w-40 is equivalent to OEM 5w-30....but not "x" brand 5w-30. Seems silly, but I would like to know either the logic or the scientific reason.

Here in Michigan, I would think the only thing I'd get out of 40w instead of 30w is decreased fuel economy. I also don't think the temperature is ever extreme enough to need 0w, I feel safer with the thicker 5w.

As this thread had already kind of died I'm sorry for asking this here, but I really do want to know. I know, I know...just use a quality full synthetic... Not what I am asking. Why does OEM 5w-30 equate to non-OEM 0w-40???

 

I know you get colder in Michigan than we do in Cincinnati. Still planning on 0w-40 in the winter months, but let’s face it, she will most likely just sit there, and not see an icy road or be driven in sub zero temps. As for the 40 weight vs 30, my n14 tends to burn a little oil, so I go with the 40. I need to give it the liqui moly treatment next change and see if that helps, going to engine flush, then ceratec, motor oil saver, and liqui moly 5w40 and maybe skip the 0w-40 change, hmmmm. The wife’s escape runs 5w-20, but also has 100000 less miles and is 9 years newer, and had no issue this last winter starting up.

 

ALL oil is too thick at startup Temperatures....even in Death Valley at 128 Degrees F like it was this past summer. The Ow and 5w ratings describe whether an oil "flows" at very cold temperatures. So, the lower, the better at startup. Unless the "w" value is lower due to Pour Point Depressants, that number reflects the base oil's innate viscosity...the lower the "w" value, the thinner that base oil tends to be. There are some exceptions to those general statements.

The larger the spread between the two numbers: 0w50 for example, the more likely PPD's or Viscosity Index Improvers have been used. PPD's and VII's can degrade over time. "THE BEST" oil is that which has an innate low "w" rating, that doesn't use VII's, which is in range of the recommended operating viscosity at the engine oil temperature you run your car, AND has the appropriate additive package (which can make-or-break the long-term performance of the oil).

Personally, after having spent a chunk of change on Oil Analysis over many years of mostly motorcycle engine analysis, but, also on some passenger cars, it's really difficult to go wrong with simply what the manufacturer recommends. If you do NOT drive in severe conditions, many of the Long-Life oils really do hold up very well for the entirety of their estimated mileage. If you want to change it a bit sooner, you may be wasting some oil and money, but, you wouldn't be alone in your choices, as that's exactly what many people do.

The Liquid-to-Gas oils are interesting performers, and are cheaper to get a Group III rating than starting with Mineral Oil base. But, ever since the Castrol-Mobil 1 lawsuit a couple of decades ago, know that the term "synthetic" is now a marketing term, not a scientific one. Due to differences in additive packages, just because an oil is "synthetic", it doesn't mean it performs best in your situation. Safest thing is as I said before, go with what the manufacturer recommends at the temperatures and conditions you run your engine. Tracking a vehicle at higher RPMs and Oil temps, for example, would logically benefit from a slightly higher viscosity than toodling around town. The thing is, the oil pump output and lubrication/cooling effects of an oil are optimized at a certain viscosity. If your oil temp is 200 F, it may be a 20 weight that is optimal, if your oil temp is 300, that may require a 40 weight to provide the same viscosity in those operating temps to achieve the same optimal viscosity of a 20 weight at 200 F. Those are just numbers, different oils behave slightly differently at given temps due to their inherent Viscosity Index, as well as the additive packages.

Oil is treated as a religion, but, it really is a science. Proceed as per your viewpoint on things approached from such opposite directions.

 

Jason,
Thanks for the feedback. Makes sense. Well, made sense until you started talking about a bunch of additives. Those scare me personally, perhaps my feeling on that harkens to what Mini-Titan said about oil being treated as religion. Guess I'm lucky to have the N18. My first couple of months of ownership beginning at 83k it didn't seem to use much oil. Now it is, but I blame that on a failing crank seal.

Mini-Titan,
Thanks for all that. Lots more interesting reading for me to do now. Relating your explanation to my question before doing the aforementioned reading...I would guess that BMW engineers have compared their oil base, PPD's, and VII's against Mobil 1's, and decided that Mobil 1 0W-40 is overall closest based on the overall package. So in fact OEM 5w-30 may very well equal Mobil1 0w-40 when considering additives and their levels of break down throughout the intended service life...? I could buy that for a nickel. As far as long life oils....I grew up in the change every 3000 miles camp. At 3000 mile mark in this Mini N18 oil change, oil looks pretty clean and honey colored still. I say that makes me feel comfortable to wait another thousand miles. I'm sure from an oil-analysis scientific standpoint, my idea there is kind of silly.

I appreciate you taking the time to break down "THE BEST" oil and the critical components that go into, specific to individual applications. Of the major names, do any have better track records than the others in terms of using/not using VII's and PPD's?

I do mostly highway driving, with RPMs at about 2,500. Maybe the Schwaben tool will tell me oil temperature while cruising. Maybe the more available 40W in my area wouldn't be a bad choice.

 

I haven't delved into the specifics of the more modern oils (a lot has changed the past decade), but, I'd be willing to say that PPD's and VII's aren't used as much as in the past...especially in the "synthetic" Long-Life oils. They use a base oil with an inherent viscosity index spread that includes both the "w" rating and the operating temp viscosity without use of PPD's nor VII's.

Really, you can relax on the 3000 mile regimen if you are mostly on the highway at 2500 rpms. If you keep doing that, at least consider leaving your oil filter in for AT LEAST every OTHER oil change. Filters get MORE EFFICIENT as they are used. I'm assuming the N18 is a cartridge filter like my B48, but, actually look at it next time. You'll be shocked how clean it is. It's designed to go AT LEAST 10,000 miles or one year.

I experimented with MANY engines, running the filters up to 3 times longer than recommended, and checking the Insoluables in Used Oil Analysis. Without exception, EVERY oil sample had lower and lower Insoluables in the analysis right up until the time I changed the filter...the, the Insoluables would pop back up to "normal" with the new filter. So, do your engine a favor, and filter a bit better by leaving the filter in at least every other oil change, or, as many miles as the manufacturer recommends, even if your OCD makes you change the oil so early. B-)

 

Titan, I like your logic, but perhaps not enough to overcome my OCD! hahaha.

The oil in my jeeps and trucks was soiled/darkish by the 3000 mark. In the event it wasn't, I'd go a little longer. All orange-label oil filters back then. I didn't have any intention of jumping right into either the 3k or the 10k oil change, I might have if I had not found this forum early on. Turns out there is a lot to learn about these cars when you jump from the U.S. Big 3, not just pertaining to oil. I changed it when the car was new to me because the previous owners did it every 10k and there are plenty of opinions on here against going that long. The oil was very dark, so I didn't regret changing it. Used Liqui-Moly Long-Life 5w-30 and Mini filter. Yes the N18 is a cartridge filter, can't say how similar the design is to your own. Changing it at it's intended service life or every other service, I have heard of that before. Will think on it. Thanks for the practical and sciency responses, was what I was looking for.

 

"Sciency", that's a good term for it! Not trying to be Tribologically complete, but, at least I'm trying to put forth some experience based upon some actual experimentation. Best of wishes with your car!

 

Why? Is there science behind that statement?

 

don’t know about the science part, but there have been a lot of issues, timing chains, vanos, etc. that were most likely caused by either not enough oil or lack of maintenance. For my piece of mind I go 5k, I drive it hard, and there have been at least one dragon trip per oil change for me.

 

Not enough oil is a problem. Whether or not the oil needs to be changed prematurely can only be determined from oil analysis. It is highly unlikely that the synthetic oils being used need to be changed any sooner than 10000 miles. 10000 miles is normally very conservative for a modern gasoline engine.

So is there any logical basis for these frequent change recommendations? Do Mini owners not do oil analysis?

 

What is it really hurting to change it out at 5k. Mine oil is usually pretty dark by that time and I’m doing my own oil changes, which can be done in 15 minutes. Last one cost me under 40 bucks with oil and filter.

 

If you do not have an answer to the question, feel free to not respond. Some people believe in using science, logic and facts to make decisions.

 

I’ve been here long enough to know that you shouldn’t skimp on maintenance for these things. As someone that has an n14 with 151,000 miles on it and no issues, I think I will keep being as an@l about things as I am. Fact is my n14 purrs like a kitten and runs like a champ And how’s this for logic if it’s dirty change it. In the long run is that extra 5k really worth 50 bucks and 15 minutes of your time?

 

RED90,

No I don't personally have good hard science. There are posts elsewhere on this site of individual users oil analysis. Feel free to find them.

I program logic for a living, I like evidence. The data I have seen has led me to the conclusion that while the oil may be good for extended miles, components of the engine get unhappy about the level of soiling in the oil. This data I mention IS anecdotal, admittedly, but sufficient to persuade me to change around approximately 5k miles, and to encourage others to consider the same. I believe this recommendation does no harm, and may do good. I make it only with good intentions. Certainly I trust others to think for themselves, nobody HAS to listen to someone on a forum. I am clearly no guru on oil as shown by my questions to Titan above.

If you have empirical data showing average oil change intervals and average internal engine repairs that may be relevant to the oil, I'm sure we would all love to comb through it. I'm always willing to say I am wrong.

 

Oil analysis is the ONLY data of use. Anything else is of zero use. Using anything else to decide on a oil change intervals is not using science and complete woo-woo. If you prefer to go through life making technical decisions based on woo-woo, that is your prerogative and certainly seems to be the average for people in society these days. Personally, I prefer data and hard facts with three decades of doing research and development for a living.

Contaminant levels and oil property changes and the point at which they affect engine wear is all very well understood and studied. It is not magic. It is hard, well researched science. I just find this a strange group of auto enthusiasts, especially with German cars. If you go to a VW group, there are databases of oil analysis.

 

Fair enough.

Would you be willing to share your oil analysis data at 3, 5, 10, 10+k miles such that we all might be more informed? Perhaps if not raw data points, what you glean from your data ( or data you have on these vehicles)? Do you have a hard and fast rule on service intervals that you personally use, or do you pay for an oil analysis every time before you decide to do an oil change? Would the data and facts you know of indicate that changing the oil prematurely may contribute to engine wear? Or does it not contribute to wear but is an elective waste of money and oil?

I'm sure there are lots of folks on here that would consider themselves auto enthusiasts and do indeed know a lot about this topic. I, perhaps, am not one of them. I'm not sure it's fair to generalize the community of this entire site.