Currently doing some rebuild work on an R55CS that had the timing chain guides go, given the missing bits of guide I dropped the sump and found some bits wedged in the oil pump strainer. Only way to easily get them out was to drop the pump to shake them out. While the pump was out I also swapped the drive chain and pump pulley. Just tried to get some oil pressure back up before starting the motor (spinning on the starter with no plugs and injectors disconnected) and I am not getting any pressure, no oil is getting to the filter housing (new filter still dry).

Before I drop the sump to check the pump pulley isn't spinning, have I missed anything out when it comes to replacing the oil pump? Pump was torqued correctly to the block and the mating surfaces looked clean. Oil pressure was good prior to strip down.

cheers

Steve

 

hmmm, well, the oil pump is not sucking, is being driven from the crank okay, so it looks like the pump has packed up or the pressure relief valve is stuck, but do I repair & trust it or put a new one in......

 

I had a similar issue with an N18 oil pump. The remedy was to pour the oil across the head as much as possible to "seal" the top oil passages. Then, i hand spun it until it started pumping the oil to the top.

 

Did wonder at packing the pickup strainer with grease and filling the pump up with oil and fitting it, expect the grease wouldn't hold long enough to get the pump and sump back on though.

 

Can you fill the pump via the filter housing?

 

I all of my rebuilds, I never had to fill it from the filter. I am not sure if that will cause contaminants to enter the system. Generally speaking, the pump does NOT allow the oil to escape from the strainer at rest. If you spin it the opposite way, it will come out of the strainer. If you spin it normally, it will push the oil up.

 

Pulled the trigger on a new pump

 

My £100 oil pump of the bay turned out to be a genuine part Bolted up, cranked the engine for 2 seconds and oil in the filter housing. Sorted Unsure what caused the old one to fail, all I did was remove it from the engine to remove plastic from the strainer, never mind, reassembly can now continue.

 

When installing a new oil pump I was taught to coat the pump gear teeth with Vasoline to help the pump prime. Then if possible spin oil pump without cranking the engine to ensure the oil pump primed and pumped oil through the engine before I started the engine.

 

thats a gear pump that sits out of the sump, you cannot do that with a mini pump, best you can do is prime it with oil however the pump "should" pull without priming.

 

just a final update on this, engine did 60 miles before spinning a big end bearing! :( I think it had issues from the previous head gasket failure. Just looking at rebuild options now.