R56 Timing the engine w single plate flywheei.
Timing the engine w single plate flywheei.
I think my engine builder did not install the intake cam seals. I was just alerted by Arric at JMTC to check the cams which i will do. If i have to remove the cam shaft what are the steps so i don’t damage it? How do i retime the engine? Its in the car.
I have the cam tool, depth gauge, degree wheel, hand tools.
I had no clue this could happen.
Thanks in advance,
DR
I have the cam tool, depth gauge, degree wheel, hand tools.
I had no clue this could happen.
Thanks in advance,
DR
I think my engine builder did not install the intake cam seals. I was just alerted by Arric at JMTC to check the cams which i will do. If i have to remove the cam shaft what are the steps so i don’t damage it? How do i retime the engine? Its in the car.
I have the cam tool, depth gauge, degree wheel, hand tools.
I had no clue this could happen.
Thanks in advance,
DR
I have the cam tool, depth gauge, degree wheel, hand tools.
I had no clue this could happen.
Thanks in advance,
DR
If this car is a keeper, I'd pull the engine, replace the flywheel with someone else's, install cam seals and set timing while still on the bench, then reinstall everything. Some will suggest using the equal length straws method to set timing, but that's a crap-shoot at best, and no way I'd try it! When I had a similar problem (an old 2011 OS Giken, before they learned about the timing hole, which was added in later versions), I used a scrap flywheel to set timing, 'til I had the hole machined in --- a true PITA! You'd think JMTC would've fixed this error by now, unless he has an alternative timing method? Is Arric offering any help?
There are many mods and repairs that require timing to be set. If you plan on more mods and keeping this engine, you really need a fully functional flywheel. Best of luck ---
Near as I can tell, you're up the proverbial creek without a paddle!
If this car is a keeper, I'd pull the engine, replace the flywheel with someone else's, install cam seals and set timing while still on the bench, then reinstall everything. Some will suggest using the equal length straws method to set timing, but that's a crap-shoot at best, and no way I'd try it! When I had a similar problem (an old 2011 OS Giken, before they learned about the timing hole, which was added in later versions), I used a scrap flywheel to set timing, 'til I had the hole machined in --- a true PITA! You'd think JMTC would've fixed this error by now, unless he has an alternative timing method? Is Arric offering any help?
There are many mods and repairs that require timing to be set. If you plan on more mods and keeping this engine, you really need a fully functional flywheel. Best of luck ---
If this car is a keeper, I'd pull the engine, replace the flywheel with someone else's, install cam seals and set timing while still on the bench, then reinstall everything. Some will suggest using the equal length straws method to set timing, but that's a crap-shoot at best, and no way I'd try it! When I had a similar problem (an old 2011 OS Giken, before they learned about the timing hole, which was added in later versions), I used a scrap flywheel to set timing, 'til I had the hole machined in --- a true PITA! You'd think JMTC would've fixed this error by now, unless he has an alternative timing method? Is Arric offering any help?
There are many mods and repairs that require timing to be set. If you plan on more mods and keeping this engine, you really need a fully functional flywheel. Best of luck ---
DR
Timing with single plate flywheel
I'm so up in the air about this timing job. Has anyone used a clutchmasters flywheel-clutch kit for their R56?
I am thinking that I made a big mistake here and the only way to rectify this is to install a better kit. I don't have an extra pair of hands so I think taking it to an experienced shop is my best bet. Around $2500 parts and labor. And $50 for the cam bolts and seals.
I sucks making mistakes on my maiden voyage through all these tasks. Damn.
Thanks for the input.
I am thinking that I made a big mistake here and the only way to rectify this is to install a better kit. I don't have an extra pair of hands so I think taking it to an experienced shop is my best bet. Around $2500 parts and labor. And $50 for the cam bolts and seals.
I sucks making mistakes on my maiden voyage through all these tasks. Damn.
Thanks for the input.
Sorry to hear about this Dan. A less expensive option might be to take your original flywheel to the shop thats going to do the work. They can R&R the trans (8-10 hours) then take the old flywheel and new to a machine shop to have the alignment hole machined in. Then take care of the vanos seals and timing.
Timing with single plate flywheel
Thanks for the response. I think this is my only option for now and in the future. The single plate flywheel I have now is a good one. However, the side that faces the engine is like an empty bowl. There is no way to create a timing hole. I believe now, after screwing with this for hours the only viable solution is to invest in a flywheel that is constructed properly. remove the engine and trans, reinstall and retime the engine.
As an aside, my cams came with metal oil seals and that's what got installed. I'm not sure if the synthetic seals are better or not. That would be a good conversation.
This is an expensive lesson. Damn. Unless I do the swap myself it's about $3000.
DR
As an aside, my cams came with metal oil seals and that's what got installed. I'm not sure if the synthetic seals are better or not. That would be a good conversation.
This is an expensive lesson. Damn. Unless I do the swap myself it's about $3000.
DR
If you have access to a dial indicator, you could put a rod down the spark plug hole and use the dial indicator to set TDC on #1. Mark your vibration dampener on the front of the engine, Rotate 90* to set midpoint, recheck with a set length rod and your in business. I would definitely try this before pulling the flywheel off.
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I checked with every nearby shop including the dealer. I've ;made a big mistake here and I think now that the only solution, as you suggested, is to pull the engine and put in a flywheel/clutch that works like the original. Clutch Masters has the flywheel with the hole and their clucth comes with kevlar friction material.
I hate this job but with the mods I've done so far we will never be able to sell the car. So I'm at a place where I can disassemble everything rather quickly and pull the engine out. I can't remove the subframe as it hangs up in too many places. That's a piece of crap as well.
Do you know any DIY'ers in Denver? Who might for a few $$ assist me to remove the engine and swap the clutch and thet the thiing back in the car? It's hard to do it myself.
I hate this job but with the mods I've done so far we will never be able to sell the car. So I'm at a place where I can disassemble everything rather quickly and pull the engine out. I can't remove the subframe as it hangs up in too many places. That's a piece of crap as well.
Do you know any DIY'ers in Denver? Who might for a few $$ assist me to remove the engine and swap the clutch and thet the thiing back in the car? It's hard to do it myself.
I checked with every nearby shop including the dealer. I've ;made a big mistake here and I think now that the only solution, as you suggested, is to pull the engine and put in a flywheel/clutch that works like the original. Clutch Masters has the flywheel with the hole and their clucth comes with kevlar friction material.
I hate this job but with the mods I've done so far we will never be able to sell the car. So I'm at a place where I can disassemble everything rather quickly and pull the engine out. I can't remove the subframe as it hangs up in too many places. That's a piece of crap as well.
Do you know any DIY'ers in Denver? Who might for a few $$ assist me to remove the engine and swap the clutch and thet the thiing back in the car? It's hard to do it myself.
I hate this job but with the mods I've done so far we will never be able to sell the car. So I'm at a place where I can disassemble everything rather quickly and pull the engine out. I can't remove the subframe as it hangs up in too many places. That's a piece of crap as well.
Do you know any DIY'ers in Denver? Who might for a few $$ assist me to remove the engine and swap the clutch and thet the thiing back in the car? It's hard to do it myself.
Of course. And thank you. How can I communicate with you outside of the forum? And where are you located? It wouldn't be fair if you live in Grand Junction...
My contact:
Dan Raabe
303-880-4641
coach@danraabetraining.com
My contact:
Dan Raabe
303-880-4641
coach@danraabetraining.com
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