Interesting! Tell us more.

 

What's wrong with the factory tensioner? I don't get this at all. Besides, just by looking at it, does it mean I'll need to remove those 3 bolts each time I want to change a belt? Oh wait, there's more, it took out the friction pulley. I see where this is going, but then again, it looks like a pain in the butt to get the belt out, and there's no tensioning. Everything looks fixed, can you imagine how hard it would be to work with the belt with no slack room?

 

You're forgetting about the tensioner that is next to the alternator. This gets rid of the friction wheel by the water pump, so changing the belt should be just as easy.

The question I have is those small diameter wheels will be spinning really fast, does that cause a problem with bearing life?

 

hi the bearings are SKF rated at 20,000 RPM with axial load stiffness ,which doing the pulley size maths would be 7000 RPM more than capable thanks for your interest

SD

 

Does that use stock holes in the block, or did you have to add them? Thinking about it a bit more at least one of the pulleys would have to be removed to change the belt. Not terrible since the belt is a 60K service interval, on my other car one of the motor mounts has to be removed to change the accessory drive and timing belts.

 

the stock three holes,keeps belt alinement simple

 

Isn't that pulley running about 5x crank speed, so 32,500 RPM at 6500 engine RPM?

 

no !

 

My bad. I assumed the pulley at the bottom of the photo was the crank pulley.