When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
From: Manassas, VA where the Civil War resides.....
NM Engineering F54 25mm Rear Sway Bar
There's been some discussion as to if the F54, 3rd Gen Clubman needs a bigger swaybar on the back. NM Engineering and a few others seem to think so.
I've always been in agreement that understeer is inherently dialed into front wheel drive cars and I prefer a more neutral handling vehicle. I looked around at the after market offerings, which is not much and decided on the NM Engineering bar. Is bigger better? What do they say, "there is no substitute for cubic inches"? Well, in this case we're talking 19mm vs. 25mm.
In researching, I also found that it was recommended that the OE end links be replaced. NM Engineering makes a beefy pair, so was included in the mix. I looked around and found that with the free shipping and a 5% discount, the total for the bar and end links amounted to about $496.00 from Outmotoring.
Being that this was not in the normal household budget, I had to fund the "Swaybar Slush Fund" and waited patiently for birthday/gift money and other sources of spare change/cash to drop into my lap.
Swaybar showed up earlier this month and last night had the fun of installing it. What follows is not what I would consider a comprehensive install tutorial, but some highlights and observations as the install went along.
The NM instructions that are included are relatively well written and will get you through the install just fine.
Initial driving impressions so far are sharper turn-in and flatter feel in regard to body roll. I did start out with the softest setting. I thought that since I was going stiffer from stock, I should only go up to the first step or increment on the initial setting vs. the stiffest possible setting.
We'll see if this theory works. It will be easy enough to change it later if I want.
A few notes:
-I had the advantage of a twin post lift to do this swap. If you are doing it on the ground on jack stands, it will be a lot harder and time consuming.
-Have the right tools on hand. I planned this out by buying the suggested
and it was the right thing to do for ease of disassembly and assembly. I already had everything else.....
- There are no shortcuts to the instructions. Read, read, read the instructions before starting. Familiarity is your friend.
-While it is plausible you could do this job by yourself, it really is a 2 person job.
-Total install time was approximately 2 hours. With experience, it probably should only take 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Keep in mind we did this on a lift. If you are doing this on the ground on jack stands, I would double the time.
On to the install:
Contents of the box.
Bushings and brackets with zirc fittings.
Beefy End Links.
The Tools.
At this point we have already raised the car and removed the rear wheels. This picture shows both end links with the top nuts already removed.
The links still have preload on them and require pulling down on the swaybar, to relieve the load in order to remove them, after partially loosening the bottom bolt shown below on inside of the control/trailing arm.
End link removed and but still attached to control arm.
Next, we had to remove the bottom bolt on the shock mount as you need to do this to remove the spring. You will need to support the bottom of the shock mount to do this. If you don't remove the spring on both sides, you cannot remove or replace the swaybar.
Bottom nut removed on the lower shock mount.
With the bottom shock mount loose, removal of the spring is relatively easy.
After this step, it is required that the four (4) sub frame bolts be loosened and removed. THIS STEP CANNOT BE SKIPPED! This is the hardest part for someone doing this on the ground. These bolts are torqued to 85 ft/lbs and take some serious muscle to loosen. You need the subframe drop to reach the back bolt on the swaybar bracket. You will not be able to remove this bolt without this spacing. The picture below shows the spacing when the subframe is loose. We still had to wedge a wood stake between the subframe and body to keep a wider gap open to fit in a socket and ratchet.
In this picture, there is a socket on the front bolt of the bracket and you can see the gap between the subframe and the body. Again, only by pulling down on the subframe will you be able to get a socket/ratchet combo in there.
At this point, once we had the brackets off, we could snake out the sway bar from the side. Some brake lines had to be pull down to remove the bar from under the body, but is easily done. Observation: the factory bar is hollow and quite light and it lost the beauty contest.....
Old vs. New - here you can see the difference in size and heft. This is a serious hunk of metal!
Bar is in and brackets go on next. Synthetic grease is provided and quite sticky!
Bracket is in place and lower bolt in. Stake wedged in between body and subframe to allow access to rear bolt of bracket.
End links are installed. Suggested length is same as OE end link removed. NO FLEX here.....
End link view from inside trailing arm.
Final notes: while all bolts/nuts were torqued where access allowed, all bolts/nuts were installed with a few drops of locktite.
Next up: Cravenspeed "Big Pair". "Big Pair" slush fund open....donations accepted. PM me and I'll send you a Paypal email address......
Last edited by Mini_Vinnie; Apr 2, 2019 at 10:59 AM.
Reason: Made the one huge paragraph post readable.
NIce write up!! I wanted to do this for my F56. From other posts I've read, it seems like it went a bit easier than what you encountered. I wonder if it is a lot different on the ALL4 Clubman vs. the FWD F56?
From: Manassas, VA where the Civil War resides.....
Originally Posted by Minnie.the.Moocher
NIce write up!! I wanted to do this for my F56. From other posts I've read, it seems like it went a bit easier than what you encountered. I wonder if it is a lot different on the ALL4 Clubman vs. the FWD F56?
My understanding is that the chassis for the F54 vs. the F56 is different. The F54 is the new architecture from the X1/X2. The F56 is an entirely different chassis. That's why there is really no parts interchangeability between the two models. It might also explain why the install was easier on the F56 than the F54.
I'm jealous. Almost bought, but my shop said they had to remove rear sub frame for installation and it would cost between $200-300. I thought that was too much for the job.
I'm jealous. Almost bought, but my shop said they had to remove rear sub frame for installation and it would cost between $200-300. I thought that was too much for the job.
That's why I'm gonna do mine when I do the lowering springs. Figure that should be the perfect time.
I just installed the NM rear sway bar on my F56. If you follow NM's instructions, it's very straight forward. Took about 2 hours. I did have to use a jack to raise the subframe back up to the body to screw back in place.
Back in the day...I would have been under there in a heartbeat. Unfortunately, now I am disabled (almost lost both my legs and broke my back). But what makes me mad is when I know a home mechanic can do it in about two hours, but a professional BMW/Mini non dealer shop, with lifts, every specialty tool in the world, and do this day in and day out with multiple mechanics wants to change for between 3-4 hours.
I'd lower my car if it wasn't for the same problem. First...springs are new and not big selection; so $300 for a set of springs is pretty high when other models you get get for $150 or lower. Now add in 3-4 hours labor (for a professional shop, probably an hour) and throw in a specialty alignment, only BMW/Mini shops do.... You are paying $700-800 for what should cat half that for any other car.
Back in the day...I would have been under there in a heartbeat. Unfortunately, now I am disabled (almost lost both my legs and broke my back). But what makes me mad is when I know a home mechanic can do it in about two hours, but a professional BMW/Mini non dealer shop, with lifts, every specialty tool in the world, and do this day in and day out with multiple mechanics wants to change for between 3-4 hours.
I can only hope you are doing well considering. At almost 71 the condition here is similar, hence buying a 2017 auto/paddle JCW and selling the manual 2016 JCW! Motorcycle is also gone... Those were the days.
But, you make a very good point. I just had my Pro Exhaust installed at the Dealer and they "tried" to charge me $800 +/- for two hours of work... Hello World! Great mechanic, not his fault but the Dealership's point was that it would take a regular mechanic about 4 hours. Since this Master mechanic did it in 2 hours, why should he be penalized and not charge 4 hours? Seriously? What an approach I must say... So the bottom line is that I get better at my job, do my job in half the time of others, but still charge what others do who are slower... That is a hysterical concept!!!
I could advertise "Fastest Service"... but I do charge for twice the time...
It sure does not make sense.
The dealership and many other shops use alldata.com or similar for pricing out repairs. You can stomp your feet all day long (I did) but they don't give a crap what you say. End of story. On my F56 it was 4+ hours for a sway bar install.
From: Manassas, VA where the Civil War resides.....
Originally Posted by Beemerchef
I can only hope you are doing well considering. At almost 71 the condition here is similar, hence buying a 2017 auto/paddle JCW and selling the manual 2016 JCW! Motorcycle is also gone... Those were the days.
But, you make a very good point. I just had my Pro Exhaust installed at the Dealer and they "tried" to charge me $800 +/- for two hours of work... Hello World! Great mechanic, not his fault but the Dealership's point was that it would take a regular mechanic about 4 hours. Since this Master mechanic did it in 2 hours, why should he be penalized and not charge 4 hours? Seriously? What an approach I must say... So the bottom line is that I get better at my job, do my job in half the time of others, but still charge what others do who are slower... That is a hysterical concept!!!
I could advertise "Fastest Service"... but I do charge for twice the time...
It sure does not make sense.
That is a sad fact about the cost of labor. Unfortunately its the reality.
I just did this very thing on my wife's 2016 R60. It was a PITA, but at the same time it was a lot of fun. The fat slug doesn't roll nearly as much now and she's happily doing twisties wherever she can.
When we get her a F60, I'm sure I'll have all the same fun again.
The dealership and many other shops use alldata.com or similar for pricing out repairs. You can stomp your feet all day long (I did) but they don't give a crap what you say. End of story. On my F56 it was 4+ hours for a sway bar install.
My dealer quoted me 2 hours book time for a front bar, thats 3 times harder than a rear!!
I was the first, my SA told me she has had 5 more come in since I referred then here on NAM.
Same cost!!
So I installed this exact setup on my wife’s f55. Couple weeks ago I started to get a rattle from the rear. Today I found time to look under the car and noticed the bottom bolt that fastens the aftermarket swaybar link is missing. Anyone know what size the bolt is or the part number for it?
There's been some discussion as to if the F54, 3rd Gen Clubman needs a bigger swaybar on the back. NM Engineering and a few others seem to think so.
I've always been in agreement that understeer is inherently dialed into front wheel drive cars and I prefer a more neutral handling vehicle. I looked around at the after market offerings, which is not much and decided on the NM Engineering bar. Is bigger better? What do they say, "there is no substitute for cubic inches"? Well, in this case we're talking 19mm vs. 25mm.
In researching, I also found that it was recommended that the OE end links be replaced. NM Engineering makes a beefy pair, so was included in the mix. I looked around and found that with the free shipping and a 5% discount, the total for the bar and end links amounted to about $496.00 from Outmotoring.
Being that this was not in the normal household budget, I had to fund the "Swaybar Slush Fund" and waited patiently for birthday/gift money and other sources of spare change/cash to drop into my lap.
Swaybar showed up earlier this month and last night had the fun of installing it. What follows is not what I would consider a comprehensive install tutorial, but some highlights and observations as the install went along.
The NM instructions that are included are relatively well written and will get you through the install just fine.
Initial driving impressions so far are sharper turn-in and flatter feel in regard to body roll. I did start out with the softest setting. I thought that since I was going stiffer from stock, I should only go up to the first step or increment on the initial setting vs. the stiffest possible setting.
We'll see if this theory works. It will be easy enough to change it later if I want.
A few notes:
-I had the advantage of a twin post lift to do this swap. If you are doing it on the ground on jack stands, it will be a lot harder and time consuming.
-Have the right tools on hand. I planned this out by buying the suggested torx and it was the right thing to do for ease of disassembly and assembly. I already had everything else.....
- There are no shortcuts to the instructions. Read, read, read the instructions before starting. Familiarity is your friend.
-While it is plausible you could do this job by yourself, it really is a 2 person job.
-Total install time was approximately 2 hours. With experience, it probably should only take 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Keep in mind we did this on a lift. If you are doing this on the ground on jack stands, I would double the time.
On to the install:
Contents of the box.
Bushings and brackets with zirc fittings.
Beefy End Links.
The Tools.
At this point we have already raised the car and removed the rear wheels. This picture shows both end links with the top nuts already removed.
The links still have preload on them and require pulling down on the swaybar, to relieve the load in order to remove them, after partially loosening the bottom bolt shown below on inside of the control/trailing arm.
End link removed and but still attached to control arm.
Next, we had to remove the bottom bolt on the shock mount as you need to do this to remove the spring. You will need to support the bottom of the shock mount to do this. If you don't remove the spring on both sides, you cannot remove or replace the swaybar.
Bottom nut removed on the lower shock mount.
With the bottom shock mount loose, removal of the spring is relatively easy.
After this step, it is required that the four (4) sub frame bolts be loosened and removed. THIS STEP CANNOT BE SKIPPED! This is the hardest part for someone doing this on the ground. These bolts are torqued to 85 ft/lbs and take some serious muscle to loosen. You need the subframe drop to reach the back bolt on the swaybar bracket. You will not be able to remove this bolt without this spacing. The picture below shows the spacing when the subframe is loose. We still had to wedge a wood stake between the subframe and body to keep a wider gap open to fit in a socket and ratchet.
In this picture, there is a socket on the front bolt of the bracket and you can see the gap between the subframe and the body. Again, only by pulling down on the subframe will you be able to get a socket/ratchet combo in there.
At this point, once we had the brackets off, we could snake out the sway bar from the side. Some brake lines had to be pull down to remove the bar from under the body, but is easily done. Observation: the factory bar is hollow and quite light and it lost the beauty contest.....
Old vs. New - here you can see the difference in size and heft. This is a serious hunk of metal!
Bar is in and brackets go on next. Synthetic grease is provided and quite sticky!
Bracket is in place and lower bolt in. Stake wedged in between body and subframe to allow access to rear bolt of bracket.
End links are installed. Suggested length is same as OE end link removed. NO FLEX here.....
End link view from inside trailing arm.
Final notes: while all bolts/nuts were torqued where access allowed, all bolts/nuts were installed with a few drops of locktite.
Next up: Cravenspeed "Big Pair". "Big Pair" slush fund open....donations accepted. PM me and I'll send you a Paypal email address......
This is a great writeup! Thing is, my end links from NM didn't come at the same length as the OEM...but I can't seem to budge the center nut so I can lengthen it. Do you have any suggestions for how to grip it properly to get it to move?
This is a great writeup! Thing is, my end links from NM didn't come at the same length as the OEM...but I can't seem to budge the center nut so I can lengthen it. Do you have any suggestions for how to grip it properly to get it to move?
This is a great writeup! Thing is, my end links from NM didn't come at the same length as the OEM...but I can't seem to budge the center nut so I can lengthen it. Do you have any suggestions for how to grip it properly to get it to move?
