1st Gen Countryman (R60) Talk (2010-2015) R60 Countryman Discussions

R60 R56 Alta turbo inlet tube on R60

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Old Jul 12, 2018 | 06:24 PM
  #1  
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gns30
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R56 Alta turbo inlet tube on R60

Got my hands on an Alta turbo inlet tube and looking to install it on the N18. From my understanding the R56 and R60 share the same motor and in theory the parts are compatible. I went to put the tube on and not really sure they are the same haha. I noticed my R60 has two other hoses that attach to the original turbo inlet tube with sensors on them, the Alta intake only has one inlet port, this is for the tube to the valve cover. Has anyone else put one of these on successfully and what exactly are the two sensors?
 

Last edited by gns30; Jul 12, 2018 at 06:36 PM. Reason: added pic
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Old Jul 13, 2018 | 03:41 AM
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Yup, the Alta tube is made for the N14 engine, and you have an N18 engine. Slightly different animals.

The electrical connectors are heater circuits, I believe. NM Engineering makes a resistor kit that you can buy to bypass those. You have to call them to order it, however. Then, you only need to figure out how to route the two tubes to the intake. NM also makes a T fitting for use with their intakes, but not sure if they will sell it separate from the intake or not. If you are calling them for the resistors, you can probably ask about the fitting, too.

I hope you got a good deal on the Alta tube. Fitting it will take some work, but it should look cool when done.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2018 | 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by njaremka
Yup, the Alta tube is made for the N14 engine, and you have an N18 engine. Slightly different animals.
Thanks! So looking at it I might try and find another factory inlet tube and tear into it to see what exactly those heaters are and what they're for. Cant seem to find much information on them. So for now I just installed the Alta foam filter kit right before the MAF.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2018 | 09:17 AM
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Your car will run fine with out plugging those in, although i recommend using ohms to cancel the signal out to prevent any potential codes. I wish I could remember what it was, i want to say around 1k ohm for each. In fact, you may not need to any ohms, I just did it to be safe. When I ran the car without them plugged in no codes, that I know of, showed up.

Here is how mine is done; wrapped in black tape.

 
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Old Aug 1, 2018 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by AWD_Rally
Your car will run fine with out plugging those in, although i recommend using ohms to cancel the signal out to prevent any potential codes. I wish I could remember what it was, i want to say around 1k ohm for each. In fact, you may not need to any ohms, I just did it to be safe. When I ran the car without them plugged in no codes, that I know of, showed up.

Here is how mine is done; wrapped in black tape.

The plug for the wire for that dumb little heater thing on mine just broke. I was talking to Mario about it yesterday when he tuned my R60, and he said you can put resistors o. There to kill the code it’s giving me, but since he was up here in the PNW, he did not have have access to them to tell me what size to use. Do you remember what you used and is it possible to shoot me the info and any tips?
thanks, it’s driving me nuts...new tune and this thing is giving me a cel on the speedo, ugh!
 
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Old Aug 2, 2018 | 06:09 AM
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I have the same inlet tube with intentions of mounting it one I have everything I’m planning to mod to my car. You can buy the resistors in a set from NM engineering. Give them a call.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2018 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by MrGrumpy

The plug for the wire for that dumb little heater thing on mine just broke. I was talking to Mario about it yesterday when he tuned my R60, and he said you can put resistors o. There to kill the code it’s giving me, but since he was up here in the PNW, he did not have have access to them to tell me what size to use. Do you remember what you used and is it possible to shoot me the info and any tips?
thanks, it’s driving me nuts...new tune and this thing is giving me a cel on the speedo, ugh!
I want to say it was 1k ohm to cancel the signal out.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2018 | 11:20 AM
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Thanks, I’ll see if I can source a couple to delete it. But at least I figured it out this morning. I crimped some blade terminals onto the wires and plugged them back in, but was still getting a code for it saying that it was disconnected. Well it turns out that the fuse must’ve blown when the plug broke. Replaced the fuse and cleared the code..... good as new!
But I do need to do the resistor thing, because I’m going to eventually replace my intake tube. The factory one is a piece of garbage, I e already replaced it once because the end tore off, this one probably won’t last too long either, lol.
 
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