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Coil-overs that will maintain stock height (Sport Plus) and comfortable ride
I'm interested in some coil overs that will not lower my car more than it already is - I have the Sport Suspension Plus from the factory. I assume that is lowered... I also want a very comfortable ride, I do not want a harsh ride or stiff spring rates.
I was thinking about the Ohlins R&T's, but wanted opinions.
I believe the sports are about 3/16" lower while the JCW reds are about 3/8" (10 mm). When the time comes, I am going to go Koni Yellows with some IE fixed camber plates/
BC's can go pretty high since you adjust ride height using the mounting bucket-thing and not the actual spring. You can adjust the ride somewhat independently by adjusting preload on the spring...raise the whole thing up as you wish.
BC's can go pretty high since you adjust ride height using the mounting bucket-thing and not the actual spring. You can adjust the ride somewhat independently by adjusting preload on the spring...raise the whole thing up as you wish.
You are not adjusting the preload. There is no such thing as preload of the springs adjustment on consumer coilovers. Adjusting the ride height is all you are doing. One biggest advantage of coilover is you can slam you car.
You are not adjusting the preload. There is no such thing as preload of the springs adjustment on consumer coilovers. Adjusting the ride height is all you are doing. One biggest advantage of coilover is you can slam you car.
Wrong.
Look at these:
The lower locking collar raises and lowers the shock body, and the locking collars directly below the springs adjusts the spring pre-load. Ideally, you want the spring pre-load set to near zero to benefit from the full damper motion, and reduce spring noises. The, adjust the lower bracket for ride height changes.
The lower locking collar raises and lowers the shock body, and the locking collars directly below the springs adjusts the spring pre-load. Ideally, you want the spring pre-load set to near zero to benefit from the full damper motion, and reduce spring noises. The, adjust the lower bracket for ride height changes.
All you are doing is changing the lower spring perch, and that does not change "preload". May be I was too busy flirting during hi school physics. What I can vaguely recall is the simply spring force equation. Hooke's law not to be confused with hooker's law.
Once the weight of the Mini is on the spring, what you did to "pre-load" the springs is immaterial except when the springs are fully extended - if you decide to pull a flying Mini the fraction of second it is airbound. You need to think with simple laws of physics, instead of the glossy marketing material.
All you are doing is changing the lower spring perch, and that does not change "preload". May be I was too busy flirting during hi school physics. What I can vaguely recall is the simply spring force equation. Hooke's law not to be confused with hooker's law.
Once the weight of the Mini is on the spring, what you did to "pre-load" the springs is immaterial except when the springs are fully extended - if you decide to pull a flying Mini the fraction of second it is airbound. You need to think with simple laws of physics, instead of the glossy marketing material.
Pre-load is a load applied to the spring BEFORE the vehicle load is applied to the assembly. When you move the lower spring perch, you are pre-loading the spring. The lower-lower collar has no effect on the spring loading, only on the overall length of the damper. THAT is the collar you want to adjust for ride height alterations, not the spring collar.
Gotta ask - if you want to stay same ride height why are you looking for coilovers? Adjustability is the only real benefit to coilovers. If I were you, I'd just refresh what you have with some new shocks. Pick your poison, but it should be a bit less expensive that way, too - especially if you're looking at higher end coilovers.
We may be getting semantic here. Unless you can independently change the height of the upper spring perch the so called "preload" is a mere byproduct of the ride height change. The ride height, which for most is the predominant setting given the spring rate of the spring that is used.
We may be getting semantic here. Unless you can independently change the height of the upper spring perch the so called "preload" is a mere byproduct of the ride height change. The ride height, which for most is the predominant setting given the spring rate of the spring that is used.
That would be true if the coilover in question doesn't have separate ride height adjustability. For example, see the Bilstein coilovers:
Notice that there are only spring perch adjustments, and no damper body length adjustments. With this style coilover, you have to rely on the spring length and pre-load for vehicle ride height, as opposed to the previously picture where you can use damper body length for ride height adjustments.
That would be true if the coilover in question doesn't have separate ride height adjustability. For example, see the Bilstein coilovers:
Notice that there are only spring perch adjustments, and no damper body length adjustments. With this style coilover, you have to rely on the spring length and pre-load for vehicle ride height, as opposed to the previously picture where you can use damper body length for ride height adjustments.
Upon looking at your first photo more closely I do see those coilovers do indeed has independent ride height setting. This is not the case with most if not all low price point COs. Still, preload is just a fancy marketing term as at the end of the day, the spring rate is what make or break the intended suspension performance. The only way to achieve that is to tailor the right spring, which unless you are lucky you may have to change the spring.
Back to OP's question. If you have no objection with the spring rates of your existing suspension, you might be better served with a set of better dampers. OE dampers typically are crap and under damped.
Yep, just needs to have the bottom adjustment on the collar of the shock to raise the ride height, some have even those additional adjustments like forge and megans with the threaded body into the bottom.
For most people that just want a better ride but keep stock height for the winter or going on back roads, KONI FSDs or Bilstein sport shocks are good.
the standard suspension and sport suspension didn't change ride height. The sport was just stiffer than the standard.
Then in 05 when the sport suspension plus came out that was actually a little softer than the earlier suspension as owners complained it was too stiff so MINI tried to make it better.
Now with that said ALL coilovers pretty much will lower your car from the stock height you have now. Most will lower a min of 3/4 inch.
So if you don't want to lower a set of Koni FSDs is the simple and cost effective way that I would recommend to improve the ride as they really do ride great. https://www.waymotorworks.com/koni-fsd-shocks.html
Then finally going to coilovers. Remember these are really made for performance not a soft ride so they are going to be sprung and valved stiffer. Our custom KW TSW spec V2s would be ideal out of the coilover option as they ride firm but not harsh. https://www.waymotorworks.com/kw-var...r50-52-53.html
So I guess FSD's would be the best approach for me. I mainly wanted coilovers because the front of my car is a bit higher than the rear. Partly due to the Cravenspeed UTI's. Maybe I'll remove those and just run the STD's that I have -- running both is probably overkill. The other reason is that the back end of the car feels very soft compared to the front. it squats a LOT when power is applied. I was thinking I could correct some of this with coilovers. Maybe I should find some standard suspension rear springs and run those with my Sport Suspension Plus springs in the front.
>>The other reason is that the back end of the car feels very soft compared to the front. it squats a LOT when power is applied. I was thinking I could correct some of this with coilovers.
The shocks are blown. The nose diving on braking and the rear squatting down on acceleration can all be remedied with some fresh new dampers.
If you were looking at Ohlins, FSDs are a bargain in comparison, plus the results will be exactly what you're looking for. If that 10mm of lift on the front end from the UTIs bothers you, go for STDs. We stuck with the UTIs since we already had them when we did the suspension refresh (Bilstein B4, H-Sport springs). The super minor lift is actually not noticeable.
>>The other reason is that the back end of the car feels very soft compared to the front. it squats a LOT when power is applied. I was thinking I could correct some of this with coilovers.
The shocks are blown. The wnose diving on braking and the rear squatting down on acceleration can all be remedied with some fresh new dampers. You don't need coilovers.
If you were looking at Ohlins, FSDs are a bargain in comparison, plus the results will be exactly what you're looking for. If that 10mm of lift on the front end from the UTIs bothers you, go for STDs. We stuck with the UTIs since we already had them when we did the suspension refresh (Bilstein B4, H-Sport springs). The super minor lift is actually not noticeable.
You might be right... My fronts were blown & top hats were torn, so I replaced them with B4's but I haven't messed with the rear yet. I guess I should try that first since the B4's are pretty inexpensive.
I just don't like the squat and bounciness since it causes my rear tires to rub the fenders because I'm running 15mm spacers. It BARELY rubs, so I'm hoping that might stop it.
Also, I actually have both the STD and the UTI's and I might just remove the UTI's... I just assumed the sandwich would be much stronger, but CravenSpeed says both is unnecessary I've read since...
the standard suspension and sport suspension didn't change ride height. The sport was just stiffer than the standard.
Then in 05 when the sport suspension plus came out that was actually a little softer than the earlier suspension as owners complained it was too stiff so MINI tried to make it better.
With respect, the JCW sport suspension and red spring combo drops 10mm from stock.
You might be right... My fronts were blown & top hats were torn, so I replaced them with B4's but I haven't messed with the rear yet. I guess I should try that first since the B4's are pretty inexpensive.
I just don't like the squat and bounciness since it causes my rear tires to rub the fenders because I'm running 15mm spacers. It BARELY rubs, so I'm hoping that might stop it.
If you are trying to get a ride improvement you need to think of the B4 as stock replacements, not an upgrade. Any improvement you see will be the difference from your worn shocks to new shocks. That's why I recommended the konis as it's totally different in the way the shock works to improve ride.
Originally Posted by jamez
With respect, the JCW sport suspension and red spring combo drops 10mm from stock.
Yes the JCW suspension that has the red springs will lower the car 10mm. But that is the JCW suspension Not the Sport suspension Plus. Sport Suspension plus was the stock suspension with black springs.
Originally Posted by MINIAC
Way meant that Sport Suspension Plus did not lower the car.
