Driving around last night, I got on the throttle and thought I noticed the clutch slipping between 3-4000 rpms. Verified this morning on my commute to the office.

My car is a 2012 Clubman S with Manic stage 2. I am on the OEM turbo, have cat-less downpipe, AEM intake, aftermarket intercooler, Forge diverter valve.

What are my options for replacement? I read a bunch of threads last night that had opinions all over the place. Some say OEM should hold well under 300hp, other say need aftermarket high power option.

What are the pros vs cons for a single mass conversion?

My car is my daily driver, and I put a TON of highway miles on it. (27k miles over the past year) I don't want to sacrifice drivability or feel too much, but I want something that will last and hold.

 

I have a feeling someone is going to suggest OS Giken.

 

I know, right? Every search thread I read through last night had at least one recommendation for an OSG kit. I'm leaning towards a JMTC, but an OEM kit cost is tempting.

 

I think Clutch Masters has a kit as well. Madness uses Spec.

Has anyone in Europe shared any info on what is avail for the RCZ? The MT forum might have more info too. My setup is too new to worry about it yet, but I'll be in your shoes eventually.

Edit: has anyone confirmed this check valve thingy/situation in the clutch master cylinder that JMTC talks about? If people are wearing out stock setups quickly, this really might be what it is. Instead of the PP, disk, etc. being "not strong enough". Any way to flush it out and alleviate the problem?

 

oem clutch lasted 65k before tune and another 50k after it. turbo was replaced and it went downhill fast.

if you can reuse/resurface the dual mass flywheel price its tempting, but it's $600 for after market and $1000+ for new mini

couldnt really feel any difference in pedal feel from DMF to SMF, my SMF made a little noise idling not in gear not sure if unrelated problems though.

 

All the research I've read indicates you CAN'T resurface the OEM DM flywheel.

If a SMF adds slightly more noise, I can possibly live with that. I'm more concerned that a SMF will cause any drivability issues. Because I drive my car around all day, every day, I don't want to hurt drivability much, if any.

My car is just about to turn over 60k miles, and I'm a little disappointed that the OEM clutch is gone so soon. I've put only 20k miles on the stage 2 tune. Of course, I bought the car used, so not sure how the original owner drove the car...

 

yep, i'm sure there are plenty of shady clutch guys that would gladly resurface it for you however lol.
bough mine with less than 30k on it and coming up on 130k in a little over 2 years ....I also drive plenty
The only difference in driving I notice is that its a little "touchy" when cold, wanted to bite and stall car takes a little to get used to. otherwise would never really tell the difference

 

If you are running the stage 3, that's the full kevlar, right? they are a little grabby.
But, they'll love you long time if you don't slip and burn 'em.

 

I've installed all the various clutches in these and I can say that the stock will give you the easiest feel for daily use and still be reliable. Look at how many miles you got out of the current one.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/oem-cl...-cooper-s.html


The other clutch like the Giken are more race oriented and won't be as smooth to use daily so it make a big trade off.

 

You can’t honestly believe that 60k miles is normal range for a stock clutch?! This is the first car that I’ve had a clutch go out so soon. Even the ‘cheap’ cars I’ve owned had clutches that have lasted MUCH longer.

 

Our clutches can go long. My '09 Clubman S clutch had 156,000 miles on it when I holed a piston on the track....I traded it to a MINI tech who rebuilt the engine and put in a clutch at the same time....he asked me if the clutch had been replaced because it had lots of life left....I bought the car new and it had never been replaced.

I really don't like the feel of the dual mass flywheel...esp in my JCW....feels mushy to me, so when it comes time, I'm going to convert to a single mass....probably JMTC.

http://jmtcperformance.com/stage-1-t...-jcw-r-series/

 

I can say that 60-70k actually seems to be the average that I see. But I know of many customers over 150k that still are on original clutches. Then I also have have customers that every 15k I put a clutch in their car. So I really feel it comes down to driver.

Then with aftermarket stage clutches I tend to see a 15k average life in a street car. The public doesn't ever see this as people that get the aftermarket clutches often get it installed then post how great it is that week, but don't report back 15k later to let us know how long it actually lasted.

 

I just replaced my clutch and DM flywheel with 63k on the car. It began as soon as I got my Stage 1 Manic Tune and would slip when cold. After researching for days, I went with the stock clutch as replacement. Guy at the dealership said that there was a 2 year warranty on my clutch etc., so can't beat that

 

So, its a crap shot either way? That certainly doesn't give me the warm and fuzzy feeling.

How long has it been since the replacement?

 

Here's the package I'm leaning towards:
- JMTC single mass light 26lb steel flywheel
- JMTC kevlar clutch
- JMTC 15% heavy pressure plate


Thoughts?

 

mine slipped and burned....bad
i wrote it up on the other jmtc thread a few posts down

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...clutch-or.html

 

I just got my car back last week. Total cost for clutch, flywheel, leaking water pump, and an axel seal was $3499

 

I was thinking of a clutch job soon, and wonder how many have simply left the stock dual-mass flywheel in place, maybe kissed it with a light grinding disc, just to remove any material left behind by the old clutch disc. I am on a kinda tight budget, so a new DMF is out of reach right now. I am at 84k on the original clutch, just starting to "feel" a bit of slip on high-rpm gear changes. Anyone? I have done plenty of clutch jobs in other FWD cars, so I ain't scared of anything but the money involved.....

 

As long as the flywheel doesnt get chewed up shouldn't be a problem, do it sooner than later tho

 

this is pretty common. We have cleaned up several flywheels and just put new clutches on them no problem.
I would recommend getting a new fork and pivot pin no matter what, which we do include in our kit
https://www.waymotorworks.com/oem-cl...-cooper-s.html

 

this is pretty common. We have cleaned up several flywheels and just put new clutches on them no problem.
I would recommend getting a new fork and pivot pin no matter what, which we do include in our kit
https://www.waymotorworks.com/oem-cl...-cooper-s.html

No alignment tool in the kit?
Does the MINI have a pilot bushing?

 

No there isn't a hole in the crank or a pilot bushing/bearing for a tool to go in. The clutch is just aligned off the pressure plate. Some aftermarket companies include tools, but they are useless to actually center it

 

yup/\

single disc (ie every clutch except for os giken) doesnt have much room to move around on the flywheel, like less than 1/8". i think i use a 10mm deep socket to raise it up off of sitting on the bottom the last time i put pressure plate on but it really isnt needed

 

on our r56 I was able to reuse the stock flywheel, I was going to go single mass if I had to buy a flywheel so I waited till the clutch was out and I could inspect before I ordered the parts

 

The general "feeling" I am getting is that at 85k, as long as I don't go to the rivets on my clutch-to-flywheel side, the dual-mass flywheel is good-to-go for another 85k after a bit of gentle "dressing" with a dingle-ball hone, or a gentle kiss with a light sanding disc at low rpm's. Correct? I am buying Original MINI parts for all replaced items, including the pressure plate, disc, t/o bearing, as well as a new MINI fork, guide tube, and pivot ball. Also gonna have MINI OEM seals on hand for the rear of the crank, and the front input seal for the trans. I will re-use my Redline MTL if it looks ok. If not, I will buy some new in advance. Gonna need it anyway, as I have another 85k to go before the payments are done. And I usually change that every 40k or so. Is this a good plan?