R56 Looking at purchasing a 2007 R56 89k
Looking at purchasing a 2007 R56 89k
Hi. I've own 2 Mini Cooper s (R52/R53). Looking at purchasing a 2007 R56 (6MT) with 89k on the dash. I'm not looking to add performance parts but will be using it as a daily commuting car for work. Anything I should be aware of (engine wise/ maintenance) before I pull the trigger? Any info would help. Not in a rush to buy as I'm still looking around.
So some searches on walnut cleaning the intake valves (not doing this, or delaying it too long usually results in a blown engine), high pressure fuel pump (HPFP - expensive to replace, although price is coming down - see ECS Tuning), timing chain (death rattle when it needs to be changed)....if the car that you're looking at has records, or you're buying it directly from the previous owner, oil changes before the recommended intervals are super critical. Do not even drive the car if it is low on oil. Oh yeah, the thermostant housing tends to leak. Don't replace it with anything but a genuine MINI part. The coolant reservoir will tend to split, but not always. Oil filter housing and oil cooler seals tend to leak....look for an oil leak on the block near where the exhaust comes down. check the oil line/banjo connection on top of the turbo for leaks...should have a small shield on it. check to make sure the sunroof drains aren't plugged...small thing but can lead to big problems.... At 89k, it probably needs shocks....in my experience, they get pretty harsh as they age. Make sure and lube the hood latches.
Sorry for the stream of conciousness....Have put 176k miles on N14's and they are fun, but just take a little more attention and maintenance.....
Sorry for the stream of conciousness....Have put 176k miles on N14's and they are fun, but just take a little more attention and maintenance.....
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So some searches on walnut cleaning the intake valves (not doing this, or delaying it too long usually results in a blown engine), high pressure fuel pump (HPFP - expensive to replace, although price is coming down - see ECS Tuning), timing chain (death rattle when it needs to be changed)....if the car that you're looking at has records, or you're buying it directly from the previous owner, oil changes before the recommended intervals are super critical. Do not even drive the car if it is low on oil. Oh yeah, the thermostant housing tends to leak. Don't replace it with anything but a genuine MINI part. The coolant reservoir will tend to split, but not always. Oil filter housing and oil cooler seals tend to leak....look for an oil leak on the block near where the exhaust comes down. check the oil line/banjo connection on top of the turbo for leaks...should have a small shield on it. check to make sure the sunroof drains aren't plugged...small thing but can lead to big problems.... At 89k, it probably needs shocks....in my experience, they get pretty harsh as they age. Make sure and lube the hood latches.
Sorry for the stream of conciousness....Have put 176k miles on N14's and they are fun, but just take a little more attention and maintenance.....
Sorry for the stream of conciousness....Have put 176k miles on N14's and they are fun, but just take a little more attention and maintenance.....
Repairs
I'd say go for it! Great daily drivers when you're caught up on maint. Looking back through my receipts at that mileage-it was the simple stuff.
plugs, coils, valve cover, coolant bottle and DV with boost hose. Oh, and a battery. I have never been stranded with my '10 MCS. Lots of road trips and it's very confident on the highway. Pretty good MPg and it's always fun!!
chain set, water pump and hpfp covered along the way, but those are all well documented here and are known repairs.
a well cared for car with sub 100k miles is a bargain IMO.
Good luck!
plugs, coils, valve cover, coolant bottle and DV with boost hose. Oh, and a battery. I have never been stranded with my '10 MCS. Lots of road trips and it's very confident on the highway. Pretty good MPg and it's always fun!!
chain set, water pump and hpfp covered along the way, but those are all well documented here and are known repairs.
a well cared for car with sub 100k miles is a bargain IMO.
Good luck!
I've had an R53 Cooper S and now an R56 Cooper S.
The R53 has a nicer engine IMO. It responds nicer, sounds nicer and seems to be lower maintenance. The steering and clutch is damn heavy but also gives good feedback. It has far worse MPG than the R56. Although there are points to watch for such as power steering pump, oil cooler leaking, supercharger oil etc..
The R56 is quieter and smoother on the motorway and steering and clutch and lighter and easier to handle. You can do a long drive much more comfortably in this car. It has better MPG, I am getting 41 mpg average vs 33 mpg in the R53. The engine is powerful, but has some turbo lag which you notice after driving the R53 supercharged engine. The R56 nearly always has problems with choked up intake valves and the high pressure fuel pump at least once in it's life. You also nearly always have a cracked PCV hose from valve cover to intake manifold. If someone has not taken care of it in the past with oil level and changes the cam can get noisy and the timing chain damaged.
Just make sure you check out a few R56 first, so you know what is the usual direct injection tappy sound and what might be worn cam/valve and timing chain rattle.
The R53 has a nicer engine IMO. It responds nicer, sounds nicer and seems to be lower maintenance. The steering and clutch is damn heavy but also gives good feedback. It has far worse MPG than the R56. Although there are points to watch for such as power steering pump, oil cooler leaking, supercharger oil etc..
The R56 is quieter and smoother on the motorway and steering and clutch and lighter and easier to handle. You can do a long drive much more comfortably in this car. It has better MPG, I am getting 41 mpg average vs 33 mpg in the R53. The engine is powerful, but has some turbo lag which you notice after driving the R53 supercharged engine. The R56 nearly always has problems with choked up intake valves and the high pressure fuel pump at least once in it's life. You also nearly always have a cracked PCV hose from valve cover to intake manifold. If someone has not taken care of it in the past with oil level and changes the cam can get noisy and the timing chain damaged.
Just make sure you check out a few R56 first, so you know what is the usual direct injection tappy sound and what might be worn cam/valve and timing chain rattle.
The direct-injected N18 can be a bit noisy, but that is mostly due to the cracking pressure of the direct injectors. The N18 also seems to have more reliability as far as the timing chain guides and tensioner goes. Carbon buildup on the N18 has been addressed with a re-designed PCV system that does not coke up the intake valves NEARLY as much as the N14 did. I am at 79k on my 2011 N18, and have had (so far) none of the issues with valve coking that N14 owners have seen and documented here and on other MINI sites. HPFP issues? Sure, had mine replaced under my aftermarket warranty. But, I see more HPFP issues on the N14 from reading a bit. I would LOVE to have an R53S, with the supercharger, because of the instant power, and that WHINE! All in all, the N18 is a more refined unit, but not without it's issues. Test drive both, and see what you like. I have not personally driven an R53S, but I hope to, one day, just for comparison's sake. Good luck with whatever you choose. No matter what, that MINI handling is still there!
Motor On!
Motor On!
Last edited by renchjeep; Sep 8, 2017 at 12:45 AM.
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