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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
So I put new rotors, stainless steel brake lines, replaced the front hard brake lines, started up the car and then hear a hissing noise. I get underneath the car and see one of the hard brake lines rusted out and spilling fluid. Are these two pipes available to purchase online? Just the middle pipes are pretty bad. It looks like it goes from the front and then connect to these pipes just passed the gearbox.
Mine blew about 2 weeks after I bought my car. Due to work space limitations and not having a garage, I took it to a shop to fix. Total of my repair was $300 including materials. I am actually surprised to see that they sell prebent lines. I'd imagine that those are a hassle to ship and difficult to put into place. I'd suggest picking up a flare tool and some regular brake line and bending/flaring it yourself. Do you have flare nut wrenches too? If not you'll want to get some.
The lines on my son's '02 Justa are looking pretty bad but not leaking yet. The pre-bent lines listed in the link for $40 and $45 seem pretty cheap actually especially when considering the time to measure and bent them. Hoping shipping isn't too outrageous when the time comes to change them out. Thanks
Wish you were closer as we have several sets I'd sell super cheap off wrecked MINIs we have parted out. But trying to ship them due to size would be crazy.
So now I have to decide to either make them myself or be a checkbook mechanic and have a shop replace my lines.
I am pretty blown away these lines rusted out. I have never seen this on a car before, then again I live in Florida and this is my first, and last rustbelt car purchased used.
It will be for sale after this repair.
I am puzzled as how on the beach does you Mini's hard brake line rusted out. Let me guess:
1) It was a Mini from rust belt. Like they say rust never sleeps. Better yet, once the rusting seeds were sowed the rust get busy. Guess what, taking it down to the state of sunshine only accelerates the oxidation reduction process. From high school elementary chemistry, the rate of chemical reaction increases with increase in temperature.
2) Driving your Mini regularly onto Daytona Beach. While the TV and movies like to romanticize the feeling of freedom driving the 10s of miles of endless beach and all that beautiful splash of seawater. You cannot kill a car faster.
The main thing that protects those feeble brake line against rust is a coating of zinc. The zinc coating is the sacrificial anode. As the name suggest, once they are sacrificed, what goes next is the steel tubings. Rust does not care if it is a Porsche, an Austin Mini, or a lowly Trabi.
I just looked up these parts on ECS and they are not pre-bent. Probably the right length but not pre-bent.
I just replaced my lines on my 2005 R52. Get the lines then get this tool. Take the old line out. Straighten it a little by hand, it bends a little on removal. Then Tape the new line to one end and work to match it with the tool. Take your time and you can match the old line pretty close. I did mine and my brakes are back to normal. Spray the lines with grease 1 time a year and it extends the life, where I spray it did not rust. But where I missed to spray up near the back wheel well is where mine went. I should have hit them up there and not just at the clip contacts. Replace and then bleed the lines with new fluid.
Anyone who has done this swap want to comment on dropping the gas tank in order to do it?
Just curious at this point, I dropped mine at an indy shop to check book mechanic it. I do not have time to work on it. If I am going to spend time on a car it wil be my classic I am trying to get back on the road.
Yes, i did mine without moving the tank. The lines are linked above and not NLA. But glad you got it done, it did take me some time to bend the new whole lines and wiggle them into place over the exhaust center tunnel heat insulation.
Instead of replacing everything, I would isolate the leaking areas. Double check that you have found all the pin holes. Then simply take a pipe cutter- you can buy at any hardware store for a few bucks. Then go to the parts store and tell them you need x- amount of line (buy a little more than you need. Tell them you need the corresponding compression fittings as well. Total outlay will be $20 or so.
Go back and make sure you're cuts are clean, install the pressure fittings, cut your new line to fit and tighten it all down- done!
It's not as pretty as new lines but it's cheap, it's easy and it works.
Here's a few pics of a brake line that failed on a friends Chevy S-10. It was on the top of the frame and was sitting in wet dirt and leaves and grew some pin holes. We cut the line and did like I stated above and it works perfectly.
I need to replace two of my hard brake lines that goes to the rear to the hoses. Does anyone know what type of flaring is at the end of the brake line? Bubble, double...etc? I assume the brake line is 3/16" with metric fittings?
I am also looking for specific size brake line end fittings, does anyone know what thread it is? Where can I find these online?
Also, what is the brake caliper nipple thread and size?
Ah yes, that what I was looking for. Didnt know that these two fittings up front would be different sizes. Do you know the size for the fittings in the rear that join the brake hoses?
