R50/53 Softer riding shock?
Softer riding shock?
Softer riding shock? Is there such a thing? My son's 2004S handles like it's on rails but the bumps.....DANG, BANG.........
I guess the shocks could be shot but there's no leakage......
I guess the shocks could be shot but there's no leakage......
Last edited by traildog; Dec 20, 2016 at 05:29 PM.
How many miles on those struts? Original? They don't have to leak to expire. The most highly recommended struts are KONI FSD.
Currently on sale half price at one of the NAM's listed vendors:
http://www.motoringwerks.com/default.aspx
That's where I got mine and love 'em.
Currently on sale half price at one of the NAM's listed vendors:
http://www.motoringwerks.com/default.aspx
That's where I got mine and love 'em.
On second thought. If you're hitting things pretty hard, check the strut towers for mushrooming and shine a light in the top to check the rubber bushings. Two videos on mushrooming towers and bushings are on the below links and you should look in to adding strut tower defender plates. Not the under tower plates shown on the video, the cravenspeed defenders are a lot easier to install. They fit over the tower, not under it.
http://www.motoringwerks.com/p-712-m...defenders.aspx
http://www.motoringwerks.com/p-712-m...defenders.aspx
Excellent videos! Thanks!
I went out and checked and definitely have some mushrooming......
I shined a light into the tower and nothing seemed to be broken or cracked.
I went out and checked and definitely have some mushrooming......
I shined a light into the tower and nothing seemed to be broken or cracked.
Last edited by traildog; Dec 20, 2016 at 06:12 PM.
We find the Koni FSDs to ride the best for a car on stock springs.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/koni-fsd-shocks.html
As for mushrooming just replace the mount when you do the shocks.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/oem-fr...rut-mount.html
Then add a set of top mount strut plates to keep it from happening again
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-st...0-r52-r53.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/koni-fsd-shocks.html
As for mushrooming just replace the mount when you do the shocks.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/oem-fr...rut-mount.html
Then add a set of top mount strut plates to keep it from happening again
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-st...0-r52-r53.html
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Bilstein B4's are about half the price of the FSD's. I replaced my OEM with the B4's 4K miles ago and they are ok. They are not soft, but take the edge off of the bumps and were a large improvement on blown shocks that I could compress with 3 fingers.
We find the Koni FSDs to ride the best for a car on stock springs.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/koni-fsd-shocks.html
As for mushrooming just replace the mount when you do the shocks.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/oem-fr...rut-mount.html
Then add a set of top mount strut plates to keep it from happening again
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-st...0-r52-r53.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/koni-fsd-shocks.html
As for mushrooming just replace the mount when you do the shocks.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/oem-fr...rut-mount.html
Then add a set of top mount strut plates to keep it from happening again
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-st...0-r52-r53.html
HEY! I just spent a gazillion bucks with you folks......
I had the oem shocks on my car at 80,000 miles.....it rode really hard, it would almost hurt every time you hit a big bump or pot hole. Put a set of Koni FSD shocks on it...AND went with a set of non-runflat tires....and WOW, soooo much better handling and ride quality. Koni FSD's are great shocks.
I had the oem shocks on my car at 80,000 miles.....it rode really hard, it would almost hurt every time you hit a big bump or pot hole. Put a set of Koni FSD shocks on it...AND went with a set of non-runflat tires....and WOW, soooo much better handling and ride quality. Koni FSD's are great shocks. 
Sounds like those Koni's are the way to go......
I'm going to try to figure out how old the shocks are.....
Shocks
Between the brands and pricing, I always liked the Bilstein products (which are usually more expensive on other makes).
Bilstein street products have the general perception of being more 'street friendly'. KONIs have the 'image' of racing shocks. KW is popular in Europe. H&R is a common aftermarket supplier of performance suspension products for many brands.
I hope this helps.
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
Bilstein street products have the general perception of being more 'street friendly'. KONIs have the 'image' of racing shocks. KW is popular in Europe. H&R is a common aftermarket supplier of performance suspension products for many brands.
I hope this helps.
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
Between the brands and pricing, I always liked the Bilstein products (which are usually more expensive on other makes).
Bilstein street products have the general perception of being more 'street friendly'. KONIs have the 'image' of racing shocks. KW is popular in Europe. H&R is a common aftermarket supplier of performance suspension products for many brands.
I hope this helps.
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
Bilstein street products have the general perception of being more 'street friendly'. KONIs have the 'image' of racing shocks. KW is popular in Europe. H&R is a common aftermarket supplier of performance suspension products for many brands.
I hope this helps.
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
So...... Where's the link to the Bilsteins?
I'd consider them as I've used there products in the past.
how many miles on the car? I'm betting the shocks have been changed at least once, because the bolt that's going through the steering knuckle wasn't originally designed to have a nut on the end of it, but they have a tendency to get stuck and snap in the knuckle, so people drill them out and go the nut and bolt route. The nut isn't a problem but it does make me think the shocks have been worked on/changed. I guess the only way to know for sure is to pull one and see how it feels.
The springs are barely compressed when the shock is unloaded. Very little preload on the system. I changed to FSDs (can highly recommend them btw!) and forgot to put a spacer on one of the shocks. Pulled it out and me pushing down on the end of the rattle gun was enough to get the nut on the threads and start.
James
James
The springs are barely compressed when the shock is unloaded. Very little preload on the system. I changed to FSDs (can highly recommend them btw!) and forgot to put a spacer on one of the shocks. Pulled it out and me pushing down on the end of the rattle gun was enough to get the nut on the threads and start.
James
James
OK! Thanks. I think I'll pop one off later today to see how it feels....
I just replaced my 131k stock struts with Bilstein B4s and couldn't be happier. Non of my struts were completely blown but there was little to no dampening going on. The Bilstein were a huge improvement!
how many miles on the car? I'm betting the shocks have been changed at least once, because the bolt that's going through the steering knuckle wasn't originally designed to have a nut on the end of it, but they have a tendency to get stuck and snap in the knuckle, so people drill them out and go the nut and bolt route. The nut isn't a problem but it does make me think the shocks have been worked on/changed. I guess the only way to know for sure is to pull one and see how it feels.
The shock should not easily move in either direction, there should be some good resistance to push or pull, if you are pushing on the shook and it is on the floor it should take some force from you to move it. If it starts out needing little pressure and then some more as you go then the shock is probably done----without checking it I can not tell how to check it other than if the shock is easily moving it is done.
I'll do that unless this answers this question.
I compressed both shocks. The rear didn't rebound at all and the front strut only about 1/2 way.
I always thought they were supposed to come back ALL the way......








