Does these combo generate more heat to the coolant and overheat more often? I have this combo and now the car is overheating often. I am thinking about changing my thermostat to 180 degree thermostat. Good idea or no? It's my daily driver for work. Thanks.

 

I have this combo myself 2% ATI w 15% WMW pulley.
It does get a little hotter, I live here on Oahu, Hawaii I don't travel far enough to have it hot. NEVER did have an overheating problem. I check on my coolant when I know I'm traveling 50 miles or more that day.

 

how do you know its over heating? do you have a gauge to tell you the water temp? steam coming out of the hood? the more likely culprit is that your cooling system isn't cared for and that the reason for over heating. unless your supercharger was no longer spinning your water pump, which would make a lot of noise on the PTO gears, I would ask, when was the last time you changed your coolant? do you have enough coolant? is the system bled properly? how does your radiator look

 

This. Unless a dedicated track car spinning at 6000 rpm constantly, the cooling system should have more than enough reserve to expel the additional heat produced by the additional boost. What does suffer is the intake temperatures with the additional boost. Again, if tracking, may need to be addressed with more efficient inter cooler, spray etc. Normal driving shouldn't be effected all that much.

Check your fluid level, check the radiator fins to see if they are clogged, you may have a faulty thermostat. Lots of things there to check first.

 

When it's all said and done.....how much boost are you running with the 2% ATI w/15% WMW pulley? Is that the same as a stock pulley and 17% pulley?

I'm running about 16psi of boost, and I've never had any overheating issues. If your motor is overheating, it's not because of the increase in boost you are making.

 

that would be the equivalent

 

Yes, a higher power output will always reject more heat to coolant, however, that's only during those brief moments when you're running at those higher power levels. During normal highway cruise for example, the heat rejected to coolant is almost the same as before the pulley change. The coolant pump flow is 40 gallons/minute at 6000 engine rpm, and the radiator has some extra capacity to deal with extremely high ambient temperatures (I believe that the cooling system is sized for at least 45C ambient temps), so there is a lot of capacity of the cooling system to reject excess heat, even with upped power output. For example, I believe that the JCW package has the exact same cooling system as the standard R53, even though it's rated 39HP over the R53.


Where some folks go wrong is using the wrong coolant/mixing coolant types and this can lead to very serious problems, such as gelling of coolant clogging the small cooling passages of the heater core and other areas. Worst case leading to overheats, warped heads and blown engines.


The failure of the low speed fan resistor is a well known issue also.

 

No...about a 17% reduction is fine....
I prefer a 17% on the SC....the +2% ati on the crank is OK, when coupled with the 15% on the SC...,, but you will spin the alternator and AC compressor faster also....that having been said, it should be OK...
Some talk of cavation of the coolant around the vanes (firming vacume bubbles) at higher rpms on the track above a 15%, but for a daily driver, no issues....and for most track folks, it's a non issue since the cast iron block absorbs the heat fine for a few moments, then gives it up when the car is idling on cooldown, or on the straightaways....
Running right , even a modified mini should not overheat...if it does, there are other issues with the cooling system.

 

I currently have a 17% Alta pulley and a 2% light way crank pulley (got the car like this), looking to change to an ATI Stock size, but I'm also thinking about changing to a 15% SC pulley or just stay with my 17% and stock ATI. I just cant stomach the $70 for the pulley puller tools.

Here is my combo and thinking of changing
Current
17% SC pulley - 2% light way crank pulley
Thinking
17% SC pulley - ATI Stock size pulley
or
15% SC pulley - ATI Stock size pulley
or
15% SC pulley - ATI 2% size pulley

I plan on tracking the car and for sure done want to over heat and based on all the ready i have been doing it seems like the 15% SC pulley seems to be the best choice by all the tuners i have spoken to.

 

Errr....the
You don't need PULLER tools with an aftermarket SC pulley..
They are held on with a collar and bolt arrangement, not heat set like an OEM....
The lightweight crank pulley....not sure there....but might be, even the ATI is heated a bit to install it.

 

Data point for the OP: No. I have an ATI Super Damper (2%) and a Detroit Tuned 15% pulley and my temps are exactly the same as they ever were. I daily drive it and regularly go over 6000 rpm with one merge onto one highway and the other merge onto a freeway. Look elsewhere for the cause of your overheating. Good luck!

 

I appreciate all the comments fellas. Thank you.
Just to answered few questions. I have an aluminum expansion tank with a new OEM cap, my third caps. Waterpump, thermostat and housing all new and OEM 3 months old. Bled the coolant at the same time when changed the waterpump. All was normal until I put on the 2% ATI and I my gauge seem to creep up to the max sometimes. Fan comes on more before the 2% ATI. Not even a hard drive. The highest rev I go up on a normal drive is 3000 rpm when changed gears. This is why I asked if this would help to install a 180 degree thermostat so it doesn't over heat.

 

Possible a clogged radiator ? Not cooling enough ?

 

you perhaps have a faulty thermostat or a clogged rad, or a beat up rad. ive driven hard plenty of times, I never get my coolant temp past 220. like zippy said, iron blocks can take a lot of heat.


if a faulty thermostat the 180 would work, only because your replacing it, otherwise the 180 isn't going to make a difference, and could cause other issues.


what gauge are you using? what climate are you in?

 

How is you belt looking?
Sounds like you did lots of work.... You did HEAT the ATI as instructed before you put it on right? Fairly Important to warm it up to get it on all the way so it does not slip on the end of the crank.....
Belt look good? Good tensioner? I'd bleed it again...heck...I have had to bleed mine 2 or 3 times to get the air out, so it can be hard.....
But a 17% combo should not be the cause of an overheat, even when driven easy at low rpms.....
No odd sounds right? Safe to say thescsounds healthy? The water pump gears can wear.....and results in overhears at low rpm at first, then even higher as they disappear.... Figure you would hear it, but just mentioning it.


Ok...just reread you post...just hearing the fan more? No overheat?warmer months, more AC?
Do check the low speed fan operation...you should only HEAR the fan on Hi,, which should be on pretty rarely.

 

Thanks for your comments.
Yes I followed the ATI instructions to the T. I even heated for 15 minutes in an oven. New Gator belt and tensioner 2 months ago. Belt in good condition. No sign of rubbing or cracks. The last time I bled the coolant was 3 months ago and no sign of overheat than. I've bled the coolant again for half a day the other day. It got a little better but the overheating still lingering around. I sometime see small overflow of the coolant seeping out of the cap and the aluminum tank. My temp. gauge slowly rise to the top and red lights blinks. I could smell the coolant in the car. This is when I know the fan started to turn on.

I do get this light chattering noise on the driver side of the engine when I rev to 3000+ rpm when the car is in motion only. Could this be the culprit? However, this chattering noise happened before the 2% ATI installation. It happens after the 15% Alta installed. Two months prior to ATI installation.

Yes... just hearing the fan more now. Before no.

Ever since I installed the 2% ATI, morning starting up has always been rough including idle. I also get the code P301 misfire 1. I have to turn the car off again and then restart the engine. The code would sometime disappear. Plugged the OBD II to double check and sometime I get no code. I have the MDS coil pack and NGK spark plugs. It was changed 5 months ago. If this keeps going I might considered going back to OEM crank. Thank you all for your inputs.

 

Have you checked your oil fill cap to see if it milky? also take out your spark plug and check. check compression on C1. Also maybe it your Thermostat stuck closed that will have you overheating in no time. What coolant did you use or are you using?

 

Oil cap is clean. Not milky. Spark plugs looks good. No dark burning/carbon. Car seem to start fine now. No CEL and no code where to be found. Still having the overheat problem. Bled the coolant again. Looks like when I rev while park the coolant boiled and coming off the cap again. I think you could be right. The thermostat could be bad again. Maybe when I replaced the crank pulley it must of had something to do with it. Heat? I used mini OEM coolant 50/50

 

How full is the tank? I know with the plastic tank if it was above the seam, it would vent from expansion....so the tank was never more than 50% full.

 

When cold is about 1.5". I used a Popsicle stick to in for measurements. I also turn on the engine without the cap to see if it circulating. Once the engine sucked in the coolant I would add a little more so the coolant in the aluminum tank is flushed with the secondary cylinder drainage. And I than closed the cap. Let the car run for half an hour. In between I would rev to 3-5k rpm. Sometime the gauge shoots up to max and sometime it doesn't.