Whom has done their brakes?

What did you change, i.e. From OEM parts.
Is there any value for just replacing OEM discs, pads, wheel bearings?

Have not done brakes on this car 2009 MSC 60,000 miles.
Are any special tools needed for a brake job.
What I did read was the speed sensor wire is important.

 

wheel bearings?

A typical brake job would be pads and rotors, & brake wear sensors if they tripped (and maybe even if not, cuz it can be hard to get the old ones out)

The "special tool" to turn the rear caliper piston while retracting is helpful but not required. You may be able to borrow one from your local parts store.
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop..._tool_set.html




If you've done disk systems before, there's really nothing special on a MINI.

 

One of my rear brakes is dragging. I took it apart last night, and the rubber seal around the piston is all torn up. I'm going to have to source a replacement right rear caliper when I do mine.

 

The special tool is helpful in what way?
I rebuilt a Land Rover including the brakes.
This will be different in some way I am sure. Turn the caliper?

 

The piston rotates outwards as the brakes wear. You need to turn the piston as you push on it to crank it back into the caliper. That's the tool for the job.

 

from outmotoring.com's description of the tool

The Mini Cooper (Clubman, etc) has the parking brake system incorporated into the rear brake caliper, which is common with nearly all modern cars. This system allows you to hydraulically (via the brake pedal) apply the rear brakes while pulling the ebrake handle will mechanically move the piston. This combination requires the use of a special piston retracting tool when installing new rear brake pads because of the hybrid nature of the caliper. This brake caliper tool is specifically designed to lock into the Mini Cooper rear brake caliper piston and apply the required pressure as well as screw the piston back into the caliper housing in the same motion. There is really not another safe way to get the piston to back out (sic they mean IN) and having this tool will save you hours or frustration if you end up needing to stop halfway through the the project to hunt down the correct tool (s) locally.

This kit allows you to rotate various pistons back into their caliper housing when changing brake pads. This kit works with MINI, Ford, GM, Volkswagen, Honda, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Subaru, Toyota, BMW, Audi and other vehicles.


I got mine from Harbor Freight many years ago . . .

If you just jam the rear's piston back, (which is 100% OK on the fronts) you risk breaking the e-brake function and the only solution I know of then is buying a rebuilt caliper.

 

We have some great brake DIY's here that may be of assistance to you when it comes time for your project.

 

I do not want to do that really-figuring what I need to know first.
The landy has its own ebrake off the drive shaft different animal.

Where does one buy replacement parts?
Is OEM good? More expensive?
Or is after market better quality.
Stock parts non vented. I think.

 

I borrowed the tool from Autozone,$60 refundable deposit.

Had the rear rotors turned at Napa and bought the pads and sensor at ORielly's.

 

We have brake kits HERE or you can put your kit together with the parts you want HERE.

 

I'm currently in progress with replacement product in the mail for the front and rear brakes on my '11 MCS. In my research found that the StopTech, Centric, PowerSlot are all under the same umbrella. SKU similarities and company web sites, product search engine, are the give away.

I put value into a vehicle which brakes well, IMHO the aftermarket has a considerable amount of options with many ways to customize a brake setup to a persons liking.

My fronts measure 21.3mm with a minimum thickness of 20.4mm. Measured .004 runout. The wear pattern on the front rotors looks consistent.

The rears measure 9.6mm with a minimum thickness specification of 8.4mm, new thickness is 10mm. Measured runout at .005. Wear pattern isn't consistent, completely covers the rotor for about 240 degrees of it's rotation, then disappears for 120 degrees, assume this is where my slow speed braking inconsistency is sourcing.

I'm replacing the front rotors with StopTech cyro drilled and slotted 128.34101C(R&L) with Brembo ceramic pads P06051N.

The rear I'm going to attempt to turn the OEM rotors and replace pads with Akebono ceramic pads EUR1309. If the rear's can't be turned with success I'm looking at Centric cryo plain high carbon 125 series 125.34101CRY, or StopTech slotted 126.34094S(R&L).

I bought both new front and rear sensors, going to attempt to reuse the existing sensors if I can swap with with no damage. Not planning on addressing wheel bearings, no reason to suspect them of anything with 51k miles on my unit.

My initiative was to get rid of the horrible amount of brake dust from the front, increase braking performance, and resolve the lurching feel while braking at low speeds (20 to 10 mph). Also plan to auto-x the car with my daughter here within the next year.

 

I generally bought my brake parts from WAY ... http://waymotorworks.com/ .... he too has 'packages'

my items of choice were a simple "plain" rotor (the basic rotor is vented but no slots or holes) and EBC RED pads which are good street pads and very low dust as compared to OE.

HOWEVER if you ask 4 people for recommendations in this area you will SURELY get no less than 6 opinions! These items are what I used and not a result of a comprehensive comparison test of everything out there. I did use EBC GREEN earlier and found RED to a bit less dust.

IMO rotors are so cheap and skilled machinists so few that turning rotors today is wasted time and money. AND rotors are made thinner to start with today, to save weight and cost. I generally went two sets of pads to a set of rotors without turning the rotors ... street use ONLY.

 

Has anyone used the MINI Cooper (R55, R56, R57) Service Manual: 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 Hardcover – the bently service manual?

I was given the Clinton' shop manual, just wondering.
Have to check prices on discs, was changing oil today.

 

Yes, I read through mine( Bentley) before changing the front brakes today on my Clubman S- I'm guessing your hatch is probably built the same, so I replied to your post here
Nothing out of the ordinary, and I had zero problems with Factory brakes in the front so I bought new parts from my dealer.
The rotor is held on with a Torx screw, so make sure you have a decent Torx driver set in case of rust holding that screw to the wheel hub.
Caliper pin bolts need a thinner than normal open end wrench to hold the pin while you unbolt the 13mm headed retaining bolt, so grab your cheapest 17 mm wrench and grind it down till it fits the 17mm hex pin access space easily.
My caliper frame bolts were 16mm heads, easily removed with a 1/2" impact and a 16mm socket. 1/2" hand ratchet would also work if you have no compressed air/tools.
I use Wurth Brake paste between the pad backing plate edges and the caliper frame spring clips to help prevent binding of the pads and also dampen any noise. MINI sells some of their own stuff , but I've used the Wurth product on BMW brakes for a long time with good results.
I think it's clay based versus metal flakes like Anti-Seize compounds that are so often used in this application.

 

Just got done drilling the heads off the front tore screws they were frozen, broke one bit then they stripped. Six years ne winters. Was able to get off the mud stone guards that are gone also.
Assuming the rears will be the same if I had known to take those tori out & anti seize.
ZZimmerman front discs rears are a mini mania replacement.

 

just did my front brakes and rotors changed the sensor and brake light still on! Oh well what's another dashboard light anyway...lit up like a Christmas tree...
red lights green lights yellow lights Oh! My...crazy sensors and lights, Really!!

 

Did you reset the sensor?

 

Reset the sensor on the dash? You say..I did three times lost patience...Yet another PITA BMW made step..everytime I change something I have to reset change sensor yada yada yada...Hate to compare to my Audi but this Mini is just stupid sensor crazy...just sayin..

 

Yeah, rust never sleeps...

 

Gen 1 or Gen 2 MINI? I ended up using the reset procedure that I copied off of one post here on NAM. Reset both my brakes and the Oil/Filter interval since it was the 2nd oil change that I had done on the car since Jan. of this year[ Racking up some miles fast in this car compared to my previous vehicles....]

 

good info - did not know ab the rear calipers

 

Got parts from Mini mania price was about the same as Mini
But I got Zimmermann disc's up front & EBC brakes.

The disc holders in the front were okay, the rears were gone.
Evidently EBC does not supply holders because you do not use them if not supplied.

Has any one installed EBC pads these are red

 

disk holders?

I used EBC reds on my 7 and was quite happy. Had used EBC greens b4 and the reds were a bit less dust ....

 

Assume you used them with or without the pad retainer mini's come with?

 

Are you talking about the Retaining Screw that holds the Rotor to the hub, or the Shim/Clips that sit in the Caliper frame with the Brake pads against them ?[ spring clips]