Hi all,

I tried to find an answer/hint but I couldn't, so I'm trying posting here

I recently bought a 2nd hand 2013 R56 N18, 13K miles, I would define "perfect" on every aspect, and honestly I'm not sure if this is a problem or normal behavior for this model.

Basically, on 4/5/6th gear, the engine revs up to ~4K RPM easily but then "hits a wall" and takes forever to reach ~6K..so much that it is better to change gear.

No lights, on the dashboard...nothing.... it seems to me just a car without the supposed 181HP under the hood.

The only similar cars I could try were recent minis (3 cylinder non-S, the 2015 Clubman S) and they all rev up to the limit without an issue (far from power itself,the engine behavior is more consistent to what I expected)

Mini dealer said the car is behaving normally, but I think there is something wrong....the 2015 non-S is definitively getting RPMs faster (read: it goes faster) :(

Anything I should check?

Thanks!!

Edit:

Stock car

 

considering your comparing 2 completely different engines, yes they are different. your description of forever is very vague and i doubt you will get any help. i suggest you find another n18 to drive to see if its the same. i dont find that my 13 jcw n18 revs slow

 

Thanks, I completely agree, I may have to record a video, it will probably be worth thousands words...will post as soon as I have it.

I couldn't find another N18 yet, that;s the main problem, maybe next week I'll ask Mini dealer to help.

Just a small update/correction, this behavior has been present since I bought the car, 100% stock, for the last month.

I mounted a K&N ait intake 2 days ago and (as expected) no changes at all, except of course for the sound.

Now I can hear clearly the "blow" (not sure about the word in English) when I release the gas pedal, which is fine I guess as I could barely hear it also with the standard airbox.

What I couldn't hear before was a whistle (constant, not changing despite going to higher RPMs) starting at ~4K RPM I think quite at the same point where the engine gives me the revving up issue.

I tried to understand if hearing the whistle is normal given the new airbox but, couldn't find a definitive answer (some people says the turbo shouldn't make noises like that at all)

I'm saying this because probably it is normal and not related, but if not, maybe it indicates some turbo-related issue that causes the power loss? (Leak?)

 

Ok, quick update, it seems paart of the problem was ~octane related.

I had a few tanks with 85 I guess (just moved to US, completely forgot about the gasoline difference...we just have one and not everywhere, V-Power stations)

Anyway, after the last premium full tank, the engine started being more fluid and not "hitting a wall".

Anyway, I'm tempted to see if there may be some "coke" issue, I don;t know what the previous owner used regularly and I was expecting a more brilliant engine TBH.

I'll bring it to M7 in Charlotte in August, worst case I think we may use the dyno.


Thanks!

 

Hi latest update:

after comparing the car with similar models, we (tuner, dealer, me) all agreed there is something wrong...the car has not the power it should have... reaching 4K RPMs it kinda stop pushing.

After 2 weeks, the dealer couldn't yet understand what is causing the power loss (needless to say, there are no error codes whatsoever)

There is a ticket to BMW opened, hopefully they can identify the issue... fortunately the car is under warranty.

Keep you posted. :(

 

I'm interested in seeing the outcome of this. Definitely keep us posted.

 

I'm not at all surprised Mini mechanic's weren't able to figure it out even after two weeks, BMW to the rescue!

Mini mechanic's are train well to read codes and replace parts because that's the only thing their good at, as for troubleshooting no way!

Without a code their like a chicken with their head cut off, "what do I do", "what do I do now"!

 

Hi, I am having the same issue with my 37K miles 2008 R56, hits the wall at 4K. I'm thinking turbo area but am very interested in hearing your outcome.

 

OK i just purchased a 2011 MCS with 68k, but before any codes came up i was having the same problem. then i started to push the car and code p0087 came out along with other codes. I only got this code after about 20mins or like 5 miles of driving at high RPM (i would leave the car in a particular gear and try to force it to go pass 4k). It turned out to be the Famous HPFP. This was replace and i no longer hitting that wall. I'm about to start doing all the maintenance work on the car just to start fresh, but if i had to take a guess your HPFP is about to go (it going bad) the dealer will not replace it unless they can show Mini Corp that there was a reason for it.

Now if i was in your shoes and can't find anyone to give me a straight answer. I would start with the affordable part/troubleshooting. Start with simple test. Any test at the dealer is going to cost you MUCHO $$$$$, so find an independent mechanic to do this tests for you, as well as this simple things i will list and most independent mechanic are not just code readers, that doesn't mean they are not out there, so look around. Some mechanic shops wont even want to touch you car because its sophisticated compared to USDM/JDM car.

Make sure the fuel lines are not crushed
Fuel Pressure test
Compression test
Change out the spark plugs
Change out the fuel filter
Change out your HPFP (you will need to throw a code in order for the dealer to change this)

and personally i would do all the maintenance you can on the car, so you know where to start off from. Dealer mechanic just know how to read codes and replace parts. They are not really trained on how to do proper test even if you pay them for it. Most dealership have the minimum required by the car company to become a authorized repair dealer for said car company, normally that number is 1 person, the rest are just back yard mechanics or anyone that can turn a wrench.

 

I'm also interested in what the issue is, please keep us in the loop
Thanks Mario

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

 

Hi, any update yet?

 

Hi, sorry for the late update, but it seems things are taking long...

so, today I went to the shop, I understand they may have not all the expertise to troubleshoot this but they involved BMW quite immediately, so it seems indeed a nasty problem to spot... I have a loaner since almost one month, cannot complain too much TBH.

Anyway, they are proceeding following BMW instructions, and changing the turbo with a new one didn't fix the problem.

They also tried other things, like replacing the whole control module, anyway still no luck.

Now, the shop mechanic following the car, found out that the RPM "4K limiter" is not kicking in when the car is uplifted (not sure how practically this has been verified though, as I'm pretty sure the engine revsup quite fast without any opposing force?)

Anyway, they think the transmission (where the speed/slipping is read, I've been told) may be involved, somehow sending improper signals to the ECU.

BMW is not convinced about this though, so they are still discussing.

Keep you posted, thanks everybody!

@HaveATank

thanks for your post, the tuner also pointed the HPFP and I asked the dealer to check that as first thing.
They told me they did check it and it is working properly.
Now, my experience so far is that teh shop is very collaborative, so I have no reason to doubt they didn;t check it.
The car is under warranty, so I would avoid having 3rd party working on it yet, but if in few weeks this is not gonna be sorted I'll have to do somethign, I agree. thanks!

 

Wow! This is a story I will have to hear the end too! Quite the adventure you've got going on there.

 

Hi, update on mine...

What I did not mention in my original post was that I noticed the power issue a few weeks ago. Moving onto a couple of Fridays ago the car would not start (turned but would not fire) at all. A bit of rooting around the interweb lead me to the water temp sensor which I ultimately replaced and voila the car started.

However, the power issue remained. I managed to borrow a scanner which showed P0117 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low, and that was all. I therefore cleared it down and rescanned with no further faults. At that point I took the car for a spin and lo and behold the power was back in spades! Now the only other things I did prior to scanning were check the fuel cap was fitted correctly (took it off and refitted) which it was and checked the hoses from and to the turbo all of which appeared fine. So...I can only think that I have an intermittent failure which will reappear or the car was acting on the code (even though the sensor had been replaced) and would not give me all the berries until I had cleared it down. Not sure I understand why this might be as the faulty component was replaced and therefore I assume the ECU was receiving the correct data.

Not sure this helps your cause Carrboroman but thought I'd share anyway.

I look forward to finding out what ultimately cures your issue.

Good luck!

 

I've had that same code creep up on me once when it was extremely cold out. Sputtered quite a bit until it warmed up. Once the engine had warmed up and I cleared the code, everything was peachy again.

 

Do you think that the car does is not properly rectified until the fault and the fault code are cleared? As I say the car started once I had replaced the sensor but did not return to full power until the code was cleared.

 

Sometimes when a certain code is stored in memory is can keep you in a sort of "limp" mode. Even if the problem is rectified, if the code is still present in the memory, will will stay in that mode. Once cleared all is good

 

2011 r56 s

I am also having exact same symtoms now, just replaced thermostat housing. Doesn't seem to do it in first, it may just not as noticeable. Right around 4500-5000 rpm all boost is gone, verified by torque app, I have rpm, mph, boost/vac, fuel rail pressure, afr and coolant logging. If there is any other sensor worth watching or group let me know I'll set it up and try. Otherwise it drives perfect plenty of power up to that point

For thermostat housing Only removed air inlet piping before turbo, disconnected battery, maf, I'm goi n g to run out and check r very thing again anyway

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I wasnt sure what would be better a wall of text or a new reply -I'm new here

checked for codes one more time and checked sensor status with the torque app (all i have for the time being to trouble shoot)
no trouble codes, but i did have a few sensor fails, secondary air monitor 1 and heated catalyst monitor bank 1

Sooo....I went out and disconnected battery, double and triple checked every electrical plug, vacuum hose, turbo pipe i could access, even stuff i hadnt touched before. The only other thing I did was turn off the ac it had been on max most of the day
Reconnected battery, set off to try and possibly get it to kick any codes as mentioned earlier by haveatank.
To get out my 'hood i have about 5 miles of residential 35mph roads so i pretty much just drove them leaving it in 2nd/3rd. It still cut boost at around 4500 rpm i just kept on trying to rev up more to about 5500.
pulled up to the 4 lane road outta town- saw a nice white clubman s go by, made the turn and let her have it to try and catch up. And of course boost all the way to redline 1st through 3rd, 4th gets goin a little to fast so i let up. the rest of my hour long ride I didnt notice it cutting boost anymore
get back home and look at the logs, the only thing i can see is the afr reading was all over the place prior to it running right, im guessing not reading at all? . At a steady rpm the afr reading would jump to 29.4 randomly and wouldnt track with boost/rpm (inversely)

 

Is everybody using at least 89 octane fuel?

 

What do you mean at least 89 octane gas? 89 octane gas just won't cut it unless you are a Sunday driver. You should only be using 91-93 octane gas especially on a turbocharged engine. Some of us only has access to 91 octane gas, where others have access to 93 octane gas.

 

Your afr should jump to 28-29 when shifting gears. Never really used torque with an AT but if you have a MT this is normal.

Don't know how much you love you mini, but it seems to me like your dealer is just fishing and they don't know what the actual problem is. Which in my opinion is not good. In NY if any dealer keep your car for more then 30 days this is grounds for lemon law to kick in and Mini/BMW to take there car back. Something to consider. And maybe you can get into a new one. I personally hate other people working on my car unless I'm watching. Most people will break something and won't even tell you, had this experience back in the days with a broken caliper bolt and the mechanic never mentioned it to me.

I was bleeding my brakes yesterday and found out that the rear rotors don't have the rotor bolt on the passenger side and the bolt on the driver side is broken and stuck inside. I got a used car but just things I notice for future reference when it time to change rear rotors. I think I'm going to try to remove it before winter just to make sure it not going to get worst with the salt.

Keep us posted.

 

Yes, I am using 91/93 usually shell , mobil, chevron
Car is also 6sp, forgot to mention.
The afr jumping to 29 while cruising is what made it stand out.
today I didn't notice any boost cutting out

I'm in same boat as you haveatank, just got used mini about a month ago, no warranty for me

 

I mention 89 octane because it's the minimum; plus, earlier in the thread 85 octane was mentioned. I personally run 93; 91 is more common here but I try to avoid it.

 

Thanks everyone,

yes, since months I used v-power and 93 every time, gasoline or coke seems not the case...the engine is running like a clock at idle, it starts perfectly when cold...the issue is also constantly happening same RPMs..
I admit that with full tank I could feel a slight improvement, but far from being back to normal.

@HaveATank, I do love my car, so much I spent already 12K in special parts, rims, full Akrapovic exhaust, Ohlins suspensions, camber plates, Forge IC, Aero-kit with GP2 diffuser etc..

I want the car to be fixed not changed, but I agree, lemon law is also here in NC.

I'll start complaining and asking for a new engine if they cannot find the issue.

Keep you posted, thanks again