Simple job, didn't have any issues.

Car is a clubbie S with 63k on it. I've had it since 48k and hadn't had the plugs out yet.

Wasn't sure if it was running the originals or not. Replaced them with NGK 95770s, which I understand are a step colder than stock.

The plugs I took out were all gapped around .029-.030.

I've seen a lot of threads in plugs, I cannot stress this enough, always check the gap of your new plugs. Mine were all over the place. Two were around .015 or so and the others were close to .028.

I gapped the new ones at .032. Car is stock except for an Alta BOV spring and a K&N open filter.

Fired up with no issues. Haven't test driven yet. (Kids were napping. :-) )

Here's the old ones. Thoughts on how they look? #1 (far left) seems a touch darker than the others.

 

With 63k on them, look normal to me..

 

ah they are fine everything looks good should be a light tan but they look dry no oil residue. but either way good precaution at 63 k

contrary to popular belief plugs are maintence not replace when you have a misfire

 

Yeah, I was happy they weren't wet or anything.

Went for a test drive and car seems peppier and smoother through the RPMs.

 

your gas mileage should improve as well

 

Hey Vinnie, we'll see if this takes care of that issue I was having where the car occasionally felt flat through the 3-5k range.

 

The ground electrodes on those plugs are coated with platinum. When you bend the electrode to adjust the gap, you crack the coating and the platinum burns off.

 

Then why are they sold and marketed as gapable plugs? I didn't touch the very frail looking electrode.

 

they are capable he will be fine

I hope it fixes it as well

 

Well it was fine for a day but it started doing it again. Randomly. Sometimes fine others, not.

These cars have knock sensors no? I don't hear any pinging but is it possible the computer is pulling timing under these conditions for some reason?

Very weird.

 

do you have a scan gauge or app or anything to monitor timing? And knock

 

Unfortunately, no. I need to get something. Budget is tight. What would you recommend?

 

I saw AutoZone carrying the scnagauge now but so does way motor works it's under 100 $ and a great little gauge you can also go the rout of like the torque app on your phone and a Bluetooth adapter also less than 100$ plus you can log and post them up here

 

ScanGauge has a version specific to Mini's loaded with software you won't get by just buying one at an auto parts store, call scan-gauge and request one specified for your Mini.

 

way also has one specific to our mini

 

Those look normal to me. You must have had the special thin walled 12 point 14mm socket to take them out. Very handy.

" Went for a test drive and car seems peppier and smoother through the RPMs. " Great news.

Did you notice a very slight MPG increase ?

 

Vinne/SystemLord,

Good to know, if I buy one, I'll source one that's Mini specific. Does the Torque App provide any vehicle specific info?

ECS, I was nearing the end of a tank so, it's too early to tell. Just filled up this morning so, I'll keep an eye out on the mileage.

Realistically, with the way I drive, the best I've ever gotten out of a tank is 31mpg. Worst was around 29mpg.

Fun car to drive that gets that with me hammering on it? Sold. Anything above is just gravy.

 

torque app is just OBD so anything your car ecu can read you can now read

so if you don't have a EGT sensor you can't read EGT

 

The Torque app has tons of gauges, list is too big for me to list. You can change the shape, size and type of gauge. I recommend the OBDLink MX Bluetooth, it's prices but very fast. If you want gauges that stay in the car get the ScanGauge, some might not like removing their phone every time you exit your Mini. Your MPG is inline with mine and I drive it fast.

 

I'm an android geek so the Torque app appeals to me. I'm not really interested in mounting a scangauge. Of the two, which do you find more functional?

Actually, will an Accessport do logging like these will? I know they don't support them anymore but it was a route I was considering.

 

The Torque app offers everything the ECU reads, I have EGT's 1380F. When it's really hot and dry after getting home I always allow my engine to idle for several minutes before shut-down. You want your EGT's to be under 1000 on a scorching hot day.

 

yes you can log with the AP but it's much cheaper to get the torque app and if you want a tune to there are much better options

 

Well, I know there are better tunes, but given I don't have a lot of money to play with, I thought if I could kill two birds....

I'll look a little more into my options.

Systemlord, do these cars not come with or does the aftermarket have turbo timers? I'm assuming that's what you're getting at by idling until the exhaust temps go down?

 

see with our cars I wouldn't bother with a turbo timer due to the fact that our turbos will continue to have coolant run through them even with the car off correct me if I'm wrong

 

I wish, I do it manually. People wonder why the N14 has problems with broken weak pistons and rings. The N18 engines run much cooler, 195F and the N14 226F. Heat kills.

You mean that hot coolant no longer being cooled by a fan or forward motion? In the Summer months I'll park my Mini, then get back in and there's tremendous heat still under the hood because the primary catt is at about 1400F degrees and IAT's near 130F.