Not drastically. Just about an inch for looks and stance. 65K Miles on her clock now. I dont track the car. Just sprinted driving to work and school. And not looking to drop a wad of cash but if suspension rehab it's due , what's the best path? So the question is...

Lowering springs, and what brand?
Or.
Full coilovers, what brand?

 

NM Engineering and call it a day. Or if you could find a set of TSW springs...

 

Reding a bit on springs here... It seems the NM are the best hybrid of stiff and comfort. Is that you're experience as well? I'm in the same camp as OP - need to get rid of the wheel gap

 

I'd suggest Koni Yellows W/ H&R sport springs. I see this set up for sale frequently on NAM 2nd generation market place.

 

This question is asked monthly, and it is pretty common to get an answer similar to this:

Cheap coil overs are not worth it. Unless you are able to spend $1500+, you will likely regret going with coil overs

Using aftermarket shocks (koni or bilstein) with NM or TSW springs work well. H&R, eibach, and swift springs have also been used with success by others.


I'm happy with my Koni Yellows and TSW springs. I'm setup nearly full soft on the shocks. Don't forget to trim the bump stops or use aftermarket ones. Koni FSD are not to be used with lowering springs.

have fun,
Mike

 

Isn't there a general consensus that if lowering, control arms should also be installed due to the increased camber from being lowered in order to avoid excessive tire wear?

I'm kind of in the same boat where I've got the springs, just waiting to purchase some control arms before installing. No use in ruining tires just to have it lowered for a while before getting the arms.

 

In general, yes, you will need lower control arms to get the camber in spec in the rear. Some people have stated they didn't need them with moderate drop springs.




The camber in the rear will go more negative when lowered. The toe in will also change in the front, so an alignment is mandatory after lowering.


Mike