So I think I may have finally got the thermostat housing failure everybody talks about...
Yesterday driving home, I noticed that the car was very sluggish: It would cruise fine, but when I put my foot down, there was just no torque at all! I tried a couple more times to push it, but once again, just no torque, and a check-engine light came on.
I pulled over and saw that coolant was leaking everywhere under the car
I just got it towed to the shop. I'm sure it was getting hot, but why would the car just have no power like that? I'm quite worried that I may have done some damage to the engine

 

The ECU probably detected (excess heat) that there was a failure with the cooling system therefore cutting power, in your case it worked flawlessly. About this time last year my thermostat housing also began to leak, I had noticed the puddle of coolant in my driveway. Skip to 2 weeks ago my water pump bearing began to make a groaning sound so I had it replaced. My point is (other members as well) when a thermostat fails the water pump isn't too far away from failure as well.

If you stopped driving the second the warning light lit up your engine is fine. Next time your engine feels sluggish take it as a warning sign and take that foot of the gas pedal.

 

Thanks for the response. I'll find out today what happened

 

I am hoping you did not overheat. Did the temp light come on the tach? Sounds light limp mod.

Here is the link to the parts and the DIY on the thermostat and other coolant parts, I would have them all checked out..

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...acement-3.html



Thanks

 

Looks like you were right. Just got the car back (I went ahead and had the mechanic take care of it). The power is there again, so I guess it must have just been the ECU dumbing the engine down.

 

As stated above, the ECU detects the excessive heat (or in some cases the lack of) and derates power, at which point you should be shutting the car off and seeking professional help.

The most likely culprit is the thermostat, with the water pump being my second choice, but I've seen numerous occasions where we replace the thermostat and 2-3 months later the water pump fails.

http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-cooper-thermostate/

http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-cooper-water-pump/

Find where the leak is originating, because either of the above options is on either end of the engine, and we can further help you with the repair.

Nick
Detroit Tuned

 

Thanks, but like I said, I had the mechanic take care of it already. It was the thermostat housing.

 

When your water pump starts to go bad you'll either hear it or notice coolant dripping from the pump. It will probably limit your power in the same way it did when your thermostat failed.

 

Thanks! I'll be sure to keep an eye on that too.

 

I got the car back from the dealership yesterday, and I still feel like the car is missing a lot of power
Today when I was on my way to work, the half-power light came on. There wasn't anything leaking under the car, so I have no idea what is going on. I had it towed to the shop, but it's labor day weekend, so I might not hear anything about it until Tuesday...
Any idea what might be going on?

 

The coolant could have got some wires wet, the ECU wires are just above the thermostat housing.

 

I'll have to check that out.

 

Grrrr this is getting aggravating
The half-power light is on, but the mechanic says it's not giving him a diagnostic code. And he doesn't own the car so he can't tell that it's missing power either...

 

Take it to a specialist, or dealership. Your mom & pop mechanic most likely isn't going to have the proper diagnostic tools to read the manufacturer specific codes.

Check the coolant expansion tank, does it have coolant in it? It is the highest point in the pressurized cooling system, so the system should more or less self bleed once you do the first major pressure bleed.

Let us know what codes you get pulled.

Nick
Detroit Tuned

 

Uggh... Looks like I'm headed to the Mini dealership.

 

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

Yeah you need to take it to the dealer, there are some codes that can only be read by Mini. That's why you independent mechanic can't see a code.

 

+1 they can read some more internal info. Let us know.

 

I'm getting real tired of this...
The local guy gave up, so he left if for me to pick up on Friday evening. He called me today (Monday) to tell me that he thinks I'm just driving the car to hard. He also called the local Mini dealership, and the mechanic there told him the same thing. I have an appointment to take the car into Mini on Wednesday.

I can't seem to get anyone to understand that I DON'T FREAKIN DRIVE THIS CAR HARD! For the most part, I drive like a grandma to save on gas, and every once in a while, I'll just give it a kick through first gear: not even to the redline. The car is missing torque through its whole RPM range, and the check engine light comes on anytime I rev it past 4k.

So now I'm worried that I'm just going to pay the Mini mechanics to take a look at the car and tell me that I'm driving it too hard. Guess we'll see on Wednesday...

 

Just to recant, you are running premium fuel?

What exact code are you getting after 4k RPM?

How does the car start in the morning? Is it a hard prolonged start? You might be in for a carbon blast.

Last time you changed the sparkplugs? They're interval is every 60K miles on the S & JCW models.

The fact you're getting a CEL over 4k makes me wonder if your valves aren't sealing due to the carbon build up giving you misfires.

Good Luck with the dealer.
Nick

 

The problem is that it's not giving a code, even though the check-engine light is on. Just changed the sparkplugs. No problems starting. I hope it's just a matter of cleaning out the carbon buildup.

 

Blocked cat? Maybe get it back pressure checked

 

if the car is going into limp mode with no codes then your ECU is wet , should not have one without the other.

 

Vanos solenoid is responsible for timing and torque. If your getting a CEL with no code then you've got a big problem, there might be a code that can only be read by Mini. As stated before third party shops will be unable to read some of the Mini codes and since you haven't taken it to the dealer you're where you are now.

My first step would have been the dealer for the simple fact that some codes can't be read by non-dealer shops.

 

So I dropped off the Mini yesterday evening, and they gave me a call today. Apparently some vacuum lines had been disconnected and ghetto-rigged together, and I was missing boost
...weird...