I went for an alignment today to a shop that does not replace parts. They indicated that the driver inner tie rod adjustment is frozen and the passenger rear camber is maxed.

Two quick questions for the group. How bad is that toe out issue caused by the frozen tie rod and what is needed should the rear camber ever need further adjustment. They mentioned a camber bolt, longer than the one already there, is that all there is to it?

Thanks very much and the print out from the alignment rack is attached for anyone who cares to comment.

 

-1.4 degrees is fine for rear camber.
You could make a case for reducing the driver camber back to about -1.5 to match the other side
It would be nice if the driver toe could be reduced, but it's really not that far off spec.
It will cause a little extra tire wear in both front tires, but not severely.
You should eventually have that tie rod replaced, although it's very possible that another
shop may be able to "un-freeze" it with penetrating oil, time, muscle, leverage, etc.


recap of settings:

before
front camber -0.5 left, -0.8 right
front toe in 0.22 left -0.06 right

rear camber -1.2 left, -1.1 right
rear toe in .06 left, .09 right

after
front camber -0.5 left, -0.8 right
front toe in 0.24 left, 0.09 right

rear camber -1.9 left, -1.4 right
rear toe in 0.16 left, 0.23 right

 

Thanks very much. I think I'll get that tie rod 'un-frozen' at my local guy and head back over to have the final adjustments taken care of by the alignment shop.

 

They'll probably just torch it till it loosens up. Seized tie rods are pretty common.

 

Yep, most places will try to torch and use two pipe wrenches in opposite directions. If it still binds or you heat it up and overheat the bushing end seat and cap rubber / plastic( i have seen it happen, so watch the heat ), then they will need replaced. The whole sections are what you need. Then get it aligned. When I install new ones I put a little anti-seize on the threads for the future adjustments.

If that happens, hope it does not: Here are the parts.




Tie Rod Full Section - Right Side Part # 32106778548

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32106778548/




&&

Tie Rod Full Section - Left Side Part # 32106778547

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32106778547/




And those hex nuts for each side on the bushing: 3710678967

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/37106789678/ES257933/



Good luck.

 

Thank you all very much. The tie rod is un-frozen now and I'll be off to the alignment shop to get the final adjustments made. I appreciate alll the great feedback.

 

You are welcome.

 

Good to hear they were able to get it loose.

 

Just to close the loop for folks who may read this in the future. The alignment is now complete and the extra cost was 1/2 hour of shop time to free up the frozen tie-rod at my local independent shop. It was a matter of enough heat and the proper tools to get it loose. As a 'belt and suspenders' move I shot a bit of PB blaster on there until I was able to get it back to the alignment shop. Again, thank you all.

 

Welcome, glad you git it fixed. Some time those tie rods are impossible to get moving to adjust again.

 

Do the dust boots need to be replaced when replacing the whole inner and outer assembly? Do you carry the dust boots?

 

As long as they are not cracked or split they are ok to reuse, with the clamp on the end, if its damaged replace it. Some people just zip tie it if the clamp is all bent up and cannot tighten again.

Here is the Steering Rack Boot Kit if you need it. 32106778560 One for each side.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32106778560/

 

Did the part number for the boot change? Took the boot off when changing out the inner and outer tie rods on my 2007 Cooper S, and Hamburg Tech boot is around 10mm smaller than the original boot and it won't go onto the steering rack.

 

The shape of the Hamburg Tech boot is definitely different from the OEM and febi one

febi


OEM

 

Thanks, we will let them know, might be the wrong part number they had sent.