Anyone have experience replacing the fuze box SPEG high on a MkII mini?

I had my A/C diagnosed at the dealer and they reduced it down to this FBE (fuze box electronics). The part number they gave me (61353453738) is for the SPEG high.

If its a simple swap then no sweat. Just wondering if any reprogramming of another module is required. Any insights, details would be appreciated.

TIA,

 

Decided to post my efforts to replace the FBE on my 08 Cooper. The process isn't explained in the Bentley manual - except in parts.

Keep in mind the FBE is located behind the kick panel on the passengers side. This is on MKII's, but I believe the MKI's are the same.

Here are the tools you'll need:

• 10mm socket & ratchet
• 6.5mm hex allen wrench (a 6mm hex will do in a pinch)
• Plastic clip tool

1. The first step is to pull up the rubber trim along the inner door. You don't need to remove it completely, just enough to expose the edge of the plastic panel kick panel that extends back behind the front seat to the connection point for the passengers seat belt.
   
   Once you get the kick panel out, you can replace the rubber along the metal edge to keep from getting scraped by it while you're working.
2. Before you can pull the kick panel off, you'll need to remove the lower seatbelt anchor bolt behind the front seat. Use a 6.5mm allen wrench. A 6mm will work if you don't have half sizes.
   
   See the pics below of the kick panel - you'll note that all connections are using typical plastic panel clips. It will help to remove the FBE panel door to pull the kick panel away from the frame. I notice that more than half the clips just slipped out of the back of the kick panel.
   
   If this happens, just use the plastic clip tool to pry them away from the frame - reinsert them into the back of the kick panel before re-assembly.
   
   
   
   
   
3. With the kick panel out, you now have full access to the FBE. The next step is to remove all the connectors. I'll step through a couple, but most have a release mechanism at their center. You'll need to get either a small finger, fingernail, or small screw driver to pull the release toward the center of the connector before the connector can be lifted out of the socket. Don't force any of them. Work slowly.
4. At the top of the FBE is a clear-colored connector. Release the large wire from the pinch clips, then use a screw drive to gently lift the connector off the metal post. It should lift straight out.
   
5. At the bottom of the FBE are two black connectors. These detach differently than the rest. Start with the one closest to you, since it needs to be out of the way to get the forward one out all the way.
   
   
   To remove these connectors, note they have a plastic swing arm - in a vertical position. Holding the swing arm in place is a small plastic button - which must be depressed before you can lower the swing arm. Pics below show this. Once you get the first one off, proceed in the same way to remove the second.
   
   
   
   
   
6. At the bottom of the FBE you'll notice two 10mm hex nuts. At the top is a round boss that fits in the bracket behind the FBE.
   
   The bracket has two screws at the top - but these don't need to be removed. Once the bottom screws are off, just tip the bottom of the FEB away from the frame and the plastic boss will drop out of the bracket.
   
7. Here's the bracket underneath, so you can see how the FBE sits in it.
   
8. Installation is the reverse. I'll have another posting that shows how to inspect the FBE.

 

Once I got the FBE out I thought I might as well inspect it to see if anything obvious had failed or if the A/C relay was accessible so that I could replace it. Everything looked OK on mine and the K19 A/C relay was not accessible with the tools that I had.

As a precaution I would take a picture of the front side of the FBE so you have a record of how the fuses were installed. May not be an issue but I noticed that 4 out of 5 of the "unused" sockets (based on Bentley) had fuses in them.

The following steps are to open the FBE and inspect the electronics inside:

1. First step is to remove all the fuses from the front of the FBE. There is also a large black relay at the center - remove it also.
2. Now remove the two phillips-head screws on the back.
   
3. Next begin be prying the back cover off at the top (right side in photo). Use a small screw driver, but be careful not to insert it too far since there is a circuit board under the cover. The cover should lift completely off.
   
4. Here's what you should see with the back cover off.
   
5. Now turn the assembly over and push gently on each of the pins in the connector sockets. This will allow the board assembly to slide out the back.
   
   
   
6. The A/C relay (K19) is located above another circuit board that has over a dozen stand-offs that are soldered connections. This is why I decided not to attempt to replace it. Someone with the right tools could accurately undo and resolder all those connections, but the hand soldering iron I have isn't up to such detailed work.
   
7. Installation is the reverse.

I decided just to clean it up good with canned air, and reinstall it until the replacement came in, at which time I'll swap it out. Keep in mind since this is a major junction box for the Mini's sub-systems you can't operate the car without it.

 

Wow back in the day the a/c relay was able to be swapped with ease. How much is a new fuse box?

 

Price for the FBE varies from $250 - $370 depending on year and where you buy. Lowest price I found for 08 base is $250 at Mini of South Atlanta.

 

I just noticed when I cut and paste that part number everyone from ECS to MINI South Atlanta says NLA no longer avail

 

Decided to update this posting. After buying a replacement FBE the dealer informs me the ECU has to be reprogrammed before the new unit can be used - since it has some changes. So I can't just install it myself. OK, so I let the dealer do it. Unfortunately it didn't resolve the A/C issue - so I'm back to square one.

That and some of the programming didn't appear to take. My wife notices the remote keys don't work, there's no driver-select shifting option, and the remote engine start (without the key fob in the receiver) doesn't work either.

Take it back and it turned out all of those issues were due to a blown fuse. They also resolved the A/C issue by replacing the fan relay - go figure! So at least everythings working again. The original FBE part will go up on Ebay soon.

 

This is the newest part number " 61353457510 " , there was a error we fixed on the site.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/61353457510/

Thanks

 

Quick Question 3d914, the fan relay is affixed to the circuit board as well?

So if the AC fan cant click on the AC compressor wont engage yes?

I'm trying to diagnose my AC as well (here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...sor-relay.html)

 

Lex, responded to your other post.

 

Thanks 3d914 for the info. So was the reprogramming of the new FBE by the dealer necessary? How much did it cost?
This may be a silly question, but must the new FBE be reprogrammed while connected to the vehicle?

 

rodpin, IIRC it was around $100. I believe they plugged the new one in and programmed it while connected to the car.

 

Just an update the newest part number is now 61353457582 , the link above will supersede to the newest part.

 

I know this thread is old but... do you have info on what each of the relays is responsible for in the footwell module?

Thanks!

 

That was posted a while back , but there are diagrams here:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r56-cooper-s-hat/


I have not dug all through them, but its got to be in there.

 

 

 

A little more background on your issue would be helpful. Why did you pull the fuse box for a no start condition? Did you check for fuel pressure?

I wish I could help with the discoloration question. I haven't a clue.

 

 

Sorry to bump an old thread, but question is related to it.

My 2010 Clubman S refused to start, brother in law diagnosed a faulty fuel pump relay in the fuse board. Unfortunately it isn't a relay that can be replaced, so they sourced a new fuse board and installed that. It's rectified the starting issue, but now a few new issues have developed, which may relate to having a fuse board from a different vehicle. The rear barn door on the left side will not open and the rear washer and wiper doesn't work. That's all I've noticed so far, the car drives fine and starts first time now.

Will I need to get Mini to program the board to my car? I've tried sending the original board off to a company for repairs, but they can't do anything with it.

I'm in the UK if it makes any difference

Attached is a picture of my old board

Edit - picture won't upload for some reason

 

http://i66.tinypic.com/34i03f5.jpg

This is a link to the picture, for some reason this website won't allow me to attach pictures, either from my servic or from an external host

 

I'm currently trying to diagnose a crank but no start condition. According to the Bentley book the fuel pump relay is replaceable. It's the big one right in the middle of your photo near the fuses.

 

thx for the write up, im thinking I have to replace my box, due to lack of power to the fuse.

 

I ended up replacing the JBE, but you have to replace it with the exact same part number, it cannot be different in any way. I put one from a different model in and the car started, but loads of stuff wouldn't work. Bought one with the exact part number and it then needed to be programmed to the car and almost everything is now working, I still have a few electrical gremlins, but the car runs now

 

I'm having this issue right now!!!! Left barn door will not open and right side barn door wiper will not operate but left side barn door wiper will.