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R56 Jerky 1 to 2 upshift with manual

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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 08:47 PM
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Jerky 1 to 2 upshift with manual

I drove an old Mustang GT 5 speed for 25 years before getting a used base Mini Hardtop 6 speed with low miles. Despite the fact that the Mustang manual was heavy, had long clutch travel and high engagement, I was always able to upshift or downshift smoothly. In the Mini, the 1 to 2 upshift is a jerk and it's hard to finesse. It's a little disappointing because I love the car otherwise. Any suggestions? Is this the way it is?
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Horhey
I drove an old Mustang GT 5 speed for 25 years before getting a used base Mini Hardtop 6 speed with low miles. Despite the fact that the Mustang manual was heavy, had long clutch travel and high engagement, I was always able to upshift or downshift smoothly. In the Mini, the 1 to 2 upshift is a jerk and it's hard to finesse. It's a little disappointing because I love the car otherwise. Any suggestions? Is this the way it is?
I think you're letting the clutch out too soon. Let the RPM drop a little more before engaging the clutch. The other thing to do is short shift. Don't stay in 1st very long or rev very high before you shift. 1st gear is a 3.308 ratio which is pretty low, while 2nd is 2.13, so there is a 35% drop between gears. Take your time it will be fine. The ratios get closer together as you go up. Between 5th and 6th is only a 14% drop.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 09:23 PM
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It took me a few months, I'm embarrassed to say, to get smooth from 1st to 2nd in my '13. I've driven sticks for almost 30 years and not experienced that before. If it's in sport mode you might try turning that off for a while as it seems to make the throttle more sensitive.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 09:44 PM
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I always thought that first and second were hard to shift and engage smoothly, it takes time especially after you get a new flywheel and clutch kit installed!
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 04:46 AM
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I've noticed this on my S as well. The initial engagement of the throttle seems to be not so smooth at very low throttle levels when transitioning from no throttle to very low throttle (ie. when accelerating slowly from a stop). This is most noticeable in gears less than 3. I notice, when doing this, that the throttle seems to peak slightly, drop off slightly, then proceed to the expected levels when going through these motions. Adding a bit more slip into the clutching strategy or a bit more gas seems to avoid the issue for me. I chalk it up to DI behavior.

--Matt
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 07:00 AM
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Thanks for all the good suggestions. I'll try them out and keep practicing. It's a very different experience from RWD and a V-8, so I'm figuring it out.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 01:40 PM
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You have to remember that most of that jerkiness is from the torque arm mount bucking upwards during shifting giving you a delay, you might mistake it for the clutch slipping. The NM torque arm insert will get rid of that engine bucking upwards movement.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Systemlord
You have to remember that most of that jerkiness is from the torque arm mount bucking upwards during shifting giving you a delay, you might mistake it for the clutch slipping. The NM torque arm insert will get rid of that engine bucking upwards movement.
Agreed, the NM torque insert is one of my most favorite mods. Taking off and shifting feels so much smoother with it.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by two250
Agreed, the NM torque insert is one of my most favorite mods. Taking off and shifting feels so much smoother with it.
Where do I get an NM torque insert, and what type of shop installs it? A MINI Dealership?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Horhey
Where do I get an NM torque insert, and what type of shop installs it? A MINI Dealership?
It's extremely easy to install, just one bolt. Take the bolt out, swing the arm down, push in insert, swing arm back up, bolt in. You can buy it almost anywhere, I buy most my stuff from Way Motor Works or Out Motoring.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by two250
It's extremely easy to install, just one bolt. Take the bolt out, swing the arm down, push in insert, swing arm back up, bolt in. You can buy it almost anywhere, I buy most my stuff from Way Motor Works or Out Motoring.
OK, I'll try it - thanks.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 04:12 PM
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I did some playing while driving around today and observed that the timing of the little blip is pretty much, if not exactly, spot on timing-wise. Slipping the clutch for the same period of time in those lower gears consistently avoids the jerkiness.

That said, I'd like to get an upgraded torque arm or insert. The insert seems simple enough to find. Anyone have a line on poly replacements for the upper mounts?

--Matt
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 04:19 PM
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Just ordered the NM torque insert! Really excited to try this out!
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 05:34 PM
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The torque bushing helps, but what really improved mine was that in combination with the Forge BOV/diverter valve. It cuts out the compressor stall when you let off the throttle between shifts.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by vetsvette
The torque bushing helps, but what really improved mine was that in combination with the Forge BOV/diverter valve. It cuts out the compressor stall when you let off the throttle between shifts.
The BOV/Diverter Valve won't throw a code or anything on a stock R56? Just making sure.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 09:57 AM
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I find the combination of the initial throttle mapping and the very light pressure accelerator pedal to make smooth shifting a little more challenging.

With the stock throttle mapping the first inch or so of accelerator movement seems to create more throttle response than it should. I bought an aftermarket unit to change it (can't remember the brand), and it helps.

The light pressure accelerator pedal isn't as bad as my e46 330Ci was, but it compounds the throttle mapping issue above. I created a way to attach a small bunge cord to give me more pedal back pressure. Pretty kludgey for sure, but it's simple and it works.

These issues may be unique to me....I've never heard anyone else complain about them. I've been driving manuals since 1968 and for my daily driver I'm kind of fussy when their ergonomics reduce the fun factor.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MNEWRTN
The BOV/Diverter Valve won't throw a code or anything on a stock R56? Just making sure.
A BOV and the Diverter Valve aren't the same thing, a BOV vents to atmosphere while a Diverter Valve diverts the air through the turbo back into the intake system. Some have had issues with the BOV.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Systemlord
A BOV and the Diverter Valve aren't the same thing, a BOV vents to atmosphere while a Diverter Valve diverts the air through the turbo back into the intake system. Some have had issues with the BOV.
Thank you sir
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 1guru2
I think you're letting the clutch out too soon. Let the RPM drop a little more before engaging the clutch. The other thing to do is short shift. Don't stay in 1st very long or rev very high before you shift. 1st gear is a 3.308 ratio which is pretty low, while 2nd is 2.13, so there is a 35% drop between gears. Take your time it will be fine. The ratios get closer together as you go up. Between 5th and 6th is only a 14% drop.

Excellent advice. You're right about short shifting - it helps. Just have to resist the urge to gun it toward the red line in first gear . Will try letting the RPM drop also. The ratios on the 5 Speed Mustang GT were 3.35, 1.93, 1.29, 1.00, .675, so it's similar. The Mustang had power to spare in every gear and was flexible - probably it's best feature.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Systemlord
A BOV and the Diverter Valve aren't the same thing, a BOV vents to atmosphere while a Diverter Valve diverts the air through the turbo back into the intake system. Some have had issues with the BOV.
Not the same thing. But, in the unit listed below, it replaces the diaphragm actuated, ECU activated recirculation system with a piston actuated, vacuum activated system while keeping the ECU connection for back up. It works with an integral BOV/spacer to vent the excess boost to atmosphere vs recirculating it. Since it is still hooked up to the ECU it does not throw a CEL. Also, since it operates much faster than the stock diaphragm system it vents the residual boost pressure between shifts allowing for smoother upshifts since your revs don't drop so drastically. I'm very happy with the system, but that's just my opinion. YMMV

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...product=FM207V
 
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 02:34 PM
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.
 

Last edited by Ovrclck; Jun 5, 2014 at 09:53 AM.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 07:30 PM
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I tend to shift quickly, so I have issues with jerky shifts in 1-2 and 2-3 sometimes. Pausing to let the RPMs die off solves it. I've noticed that when the AC is on, the revs die off much more quickly, allowing faster shifting.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by u238
I tend to shift quickly, so I have issues with jerky shifts in 1-2 and 2-3 sometimes. Pausing to let the RPMs die off solves it. I've noticed that when the AC is on, the revs die off much more quickly, allowing faster shifting.
Yup, I tested that out today and it helped. Short shifting is also key. Now I love the car 100%!
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Horhey
Yup, I tested that out today and it helped. Short shifting is also key. Now I love the car 100%!

I had this same problem! Now to buy the NM Torque Arm insert.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Ovrclck
I had this same problem! Now to buy the NM Torque Arm insert.
It makes a huge difference in smoothness for those of us who tend to shift aggressively.
 
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