Hello,

The cylinder walls are scored and turbo blown on my 2007 MCS with 50k miles.

Dealer wants $11,100 to replace with new. $3900 in labor rest in parts.
W/ 2 yr warranty.

I have already put JCW suspesion, body kit engine kit and wheels on it.
So have over $35k invested so far.

If anyone has suggestions please let me know.

I am looking for a shop(s) that may do it with junk yard motor but still looking. I'm in No Va.

Has anyone put over size pistons or sleeves in this motor??
Rebuilt on the web are about what mini is asking..


Help or should I just take my losses and get out of this R56!
And yes all those other engineered in issues have be fixed on my dime and theirs.

thanks,
joe

 

Your best bet (I just did this myself) is to try to order a motor from sewell mini. They gave me one for about 3500 to my doorstep. This included all the sealing parts on the motor. Since sewell is also a dealership my motor carries a two year warrenty. I was able to change the motor out in a weekend. If you know someone with an engine hoist thats your best option. 11,000 ? You can buy an R53 for that.

 

+1 for Brandon at Sewell MINI:
http://mini.sewellparts.com/support/...tus/index.html

I paid $3,364 for the short block + extra parts (bolts, gaskets, belt, tranny oil, coolant, etc) + $270 for shipping with delivery straight to my garage door ($500 core deposit). The engine arrived yesterday!

The old engine is almost out of the car, the new one will go in as time allows. If you have time and space to wrench on your R56, $3.3K for a new BMW rebuilt engine with 2 year warrant is the way to go. I looked around for fresh used N14s, and they are hard to find and listed for north of $4K.

That is not an excuse for accepting engine blow-outs at ~50K miles (mine went at 56K), but

a

 

You want what is called a short block. It it's just the engine, head, and valve cover. You can use all you existing accessories to help save you money.

Sent from me being awesome around my MINI!!

 

I am just curious, but I was under the impression that a "short" block was just the engine block with the internals.

A "long" block usually has the cylinder head/top end (that is what the OP was asking/looking for).

Is this a new BMW/Mini thing, or just a semantics thing?

Steve H.

 

Probably both of the above.
My assumptions were the same as yours: long block == short block + cylinder head, valve train and cams + oil pan and valve cover;

However, in BMW/MINI parts catalog, all of the above (and than some) that I just had shipped to my garage door are called "RMFD SHORT ENGINE11 11002158705" and is priced at $3364. That engine also came with new water pump, thermostat, timing chain tensioner, oil filter housing, and even spark plugs!

I don't think that's a standard "long" or "short" block package, but that's what MINI calls a "short engine".

BTW, the above is a great price from Sewell MINI (no affiliation), as all local MINI dealers wanted between $4315 and $5600 for the same part #. Shipping took less than a week, and cost less than the sales tax.

a

 

You could try contacting Mach V Motorsports. They run fastmini.net and are in the DC Metro area out in Sterling, VA. They might be able to help.

 

Here's a JCW on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-MINI-COOPER-HATCHBACK-JCW-OEM-TURBO-COMPLETE-ENGINE-LONGBLOCK-1-6T-9045-/271452225879?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f33d04157&vxp=mtr

 

As every MINI expert I've pinged when I was shopping for an N14 kept telling me: beware of buying used MINI engines off anyone.

At best, you will get one with carbon deposits on the valves and no warranty.
More likely the engine you get will require a different DME then the one in your car, necessitating either DME swap/reprogram or engine harness replacement as well. For example: matching JCW engines with regular MCS cars (like the OP).
It gets worse from there....

BMW/MINI rebuild engines with 2-year factory warranty are just too good a deal to pass up.

a

 

[QUOTE=afadeev;3914314]Probably both of the above.
My assumptions were the same as yours: long block == short block + cylinder head, valve train and cams + oil pan and valve cover;

However, in BMW/MINI parts catalog, all of the above (and than some) that I just had shipped to my garage door are called "RMFD SHORT ENGINE11 11002158705" and is priced at $3364. That engine also came with new water pump, thermostat, timing chain tensioner, oil filter housing, and even spark plugs!

Where did you find it for $3364?

 

http://mini.sewellparts.com/

I dealt with Brandon: bramarti@sewell.com


a

 

I dealt with brandon as well. I so did not want to go this route so I know how you feel but believe me it is worth it. Brandon helped me every step of the way. I asked him for random torque specs and ordered more parts after and he bundled them to save me money. He even printed me a build sheet for the car. The peace of mind with this route is that it has all the upgraded parts so you dont have to worry about timing chain or water pump issues. I know it sounds like we are trying to hard sell it to you and force it on you, but it is so worth all the arguements with my wife haha

 

Right.
To me the decision tree branched like this:
Option #1). I started shopping for a low-mileage used N14, BUT quickly realized that I would need to replace the following on the engine before it went into my car (no way to verify the condition of parts inside an engine out of a junk yard):
a). new water pump
b). new thermostat
c). new timing chain and tensioner
d). somehow clean carbon deposits from the intake valves
e). all oil and coolant gaskets everywhere I touched (oil filter housing, oil turbo cooling lines, etc)


Even after everything above was done, I would still be installing an engine w/out warranty or history of any kind.
Then in turned out used N14s with fewer than 50K miles rarely go for under $3K + shipping.

Option #2). Then I started calling around MINI dealers, and got the lead to contact Sewell MINI off folks on this board. Once the price of a new engine dropped from $4.5K (local dealers) to $3.3K
(Sewell MINI), it became a no-brainer. Items 1a-1d are brand new and/or already installed from the factory. Most of the 1e is new as well (I re-used newly installed oil turbo lines from Detroit Tuned).

Option #3). Rebuild the old engine yourself.
The trouble with that was that the parts list from my local MINI dealer to do that job properly ran very long and added up to roughly the same price point as option #2, but I would still need to address 1a-1e.

I have done #2, new engine just bolted to the fully serviced tranny and is going back into the R56 engine bay tonight.

I may still explore option #3 just to see what went wrong. But even if it's something localized to cyl 4 (no compression, 100% exhaust leak), it would be a project of love, not of financial prudence.

HTH,
a

 

Afadeev
If you need any help or any pointers pm me and I'll give you my number. I just did this less than a month ago.

 

This is the route I plan to go once my engine gives out.
http://www.jmturbocoopers.com/Mini-E...d-Exhaust.html

Although my plan is to replace my non turbo with a turbo engine. I'm not sure if that's your goal or not but this is just another option.

-D

 

Joe, did you find another engine? I would really consider oversize pistons and another turbo if that's all it needs.

 

If you are serious about replacing a non-turbo engine with N14/N18, you will need to add the cost and complexity of replacing the wiring harness and DME on top of the block + turbo + plumbing.

If you seriously want aftermarket turbo, better start looking for a shop that can custom program the DME for that turbo for you. Long story short - figure at least 2x cost of a like-for-like engine swap.

a

 

Yeah that's the tough part. I've already been in contact with the place supplying the engine and they are looking into how to get the ECU reprogrammed for the turbo. Although this is still not happening for a while I'm getting all my ducks lined up for when it does happen.

Also sorry Newtonova, didn't mean to hijack your thread... Was just trying to convey the option I'm taking when I swap engines in my Cooper.

-D

 

BTW, here is the picture (on the left) of what you get from the MINI when you buy part # 11002158705 RMFD SHORT ENGINE11

The one on the left is the new engine, un-boxed, sitting on the shipping platform. You can see the water pump and the back side of the thermostat.

The dirty thing on the engine hoist to the right is my old engine with the intake manifold, tranny, and all the accessories still attached to it.

a

 

It is sitting for now. I bought a new car and am waiting for funds to fund getting the car running again to sell most probably.., went with 2014 370Z just got tired of dealing with engineered service requirements that are not documented to us consumers.

I realise it is a performance vehicle but some things are poor with 07 as you know.

I may check with mach V who is close to me.
valves need carbon removal
new turbo
aux water pump and coolant hoses

not sure of resale if just did pistons and cylinders?? but will look into it
and let everyone know.

I have JCW body kit
JCW tune kit
JCW 18: double spoke with pzero's
JCW suspension kit

All above is on the car and I am thinking of reverting to MCS and part out JCW.

I think a new sewell is best bet or 1 yr warranty rebuilt to get it together and sell. The JCW on ebay is nice but as others have said that would need time and money to bring to no needed service shape to be safe and do all when engine is out.

 

Thanks afadeev for the same thinking process and options, I emailed Brandon.

 

Good job on the email you won't regret it

 

thanks for the info... great thread

 

If you walk into a MINI dealer and buy the parts over the counter you pay a different price than what the same dealer sells parts on the Internet for. BMW/MINI control the over the counter pricing but the dealer can control their own Internet pricing. It's no surprise the price is so much lower buying over the Internet. You still have to pay the same core price and send your old part back to the dealer at your expense to get your money back just like buying over the counter. The new motor from the dealer will carry a two year unlimited mileage parts and labor warranty if the dealer installs it and the dealer has all of the special tools required to do the job. Junkyard motors probably don't carry a parts and labor warranty, a big gamble to pay for f it fails.

 

I'm in a similar position as the OP needing a rebuilt or new N14 for a 2010 Clubman S. I'm trying to decide if I should fix the car or see what I can get on a trade-in and move onto something else. I was hoping NAM could help provide some advice...

I followed the links in the thread and it appears Sewell MINI is out of business or was bought out by another dealer.

After poking around the Internet, I've found a few options but I'm confused on the "completeness" of the engines.

Option 1
MINI of Kennesaw has a remanufactured N14 "Short engine" that appears to come with the block, crank, top end and 2 year warranty delivered (with deposit) for $5500:

http://parts.miniofkennesaw.com/prod...002158705.html

Mini Mania appears to call the same thing an "Engine":

http://new.minimania.com/part/G2NME8...5-r57-Cooper-S

Option 2
Mini Mania has a new "Short Block" for $2900:

http://new.minimania.com/part/G2NME8001/

Option 3
Way has a "Complete New Engine" with many of the peripherals for $6700 (not including core deposit and shipping):

https://www.waymotorworks.com/n14-co...-cooper-s.html

I'm debating which way to go because Option 3 will give me the best lifespan with fewer problems but will cost the most up front but probably the least amount of labor. (I still need to call Way to see if there is a warranty on this thing.)

Option 2 is probably the least cost in upfront parts but will be the highest amount of labor and risk because I'd re-use my valve train. The valves were just walnut blasted so that part is good, but with rest of the parts would still have 55k miles on them. Based on this, do you guys think this option even makes sense?

That leaves Option 1 as a middle-ground. Most of the engine is new, but all the accessories would still have 55k on them (with the exception of the coils and HPFP which are 15k old).

I'm interested to hear what people think, especially those of us "fortunate" to have gone through a failed N14.