Ok all,

Sure this is a repeated question, but all I want to know is if there are any performance gains or sound improvements from one to the other. I don't care to pay for a name brand and totally trust WMW products. The price difference will afford me to opt for other Mods pending forum input.

Thanks a bunch...

 

I see you've got a CNT exhaust why aren't you also considering their DP as a possible option. Definitely a cheaper option.

 

Hmmm. I would look into that. Forgot they had one...
Thanks.

 

2nd that, it's a lot cheaper but you have to do a little extra work. I wrote my review on it, here on nam as well as their website comments

 

I have the WMW Catless DP. Easy to install (as long as you put the car into service mode) and the sound benefit was great!

That being said I'd recommend replacing the FMIC first. With a high-flow/catless converter (downpipe) your exhaust will develop more heat in the front of your engine and therefore develope heat soak and rob your engine of power. So after driving your car just a short drive you'll have lost the power that you gained just because its running so hot. There are several options for a FMIC. Some of them not too expensive.

While technically not a power enhancement, it will keep your engine breathing cooler air. And that will keep your power running higher for longer.

 

Couldn't you use exhaust wrap to help keep the heat down?

 

You could. It would help but not solve it completely. Idealy you'd want to have the downpipe ceramic coated and then you wouldn't need worry at all. In fact if you had the DP ceramic coated you could run without the front heat shields and not worry about heat at all.

 

Well **** when i have some money I might spend the extra money and do that

 

I take it ceramic coating is expensive, because even the top end Down Pipes don't provide that option...

 

Usually a few hundred. Most places don't offer it due to getting a whole other company involved. It just complicated the process from a vendor perspective. Plus most people don't think/care about it. Either from a monitary stand point or from being uninformed of the process and beneifts.

 

I paid 200 to coat a pair of Integra tye R headers last year in south Florida. I wouldn't pay over 200 for a DP considering how easy it should be compared to other products with multiple bends

 

Wouldn't having that heat move more efficiently away from your turbo be a good thing.

 

Of course it is! However with higher velocity comes heat. The faster something moves the hotter it gets. This includes air/exhaust. Some downpipes (depending on design) can start to glow because of how hot they get. And as stated before ceramic coating will help keep that heat from filling up the are in front of the engine, by traping the heat inside and evacuating the heat out the exhaust.

 

On that note, The temperature of the intake air on CNT DP is 10-15 degrees above ambient while moving at ~ 80-100 mph, on a stock intercooler.

 

Neither go with Evolve.

 

Temp of the air after intercooler? Plus the longer the car is run the hotter it shall get. Especially after a few runs. How often are people running 80-100mph? I would guess not very many. Even in a track scenario that's rare to consistently run that fast. It gets worse if you run for AutoX. Where you rarely see speeds above 60mph.

 

I'm not against intercoolers, I just currently dont have my fmic on.
The 80-100 is on the highway, but yes I also note a rise of at least 45 degree having the car turned off for 20-30 mins; You can conclude it would only be worse at idle or low speeds; and not low winter temps.

 

I'm happy with my wmw

 

What are you using to prevent CEL from coming on? Im sure the Cat-less WMW throws a code.

I heard you can use the JB+ NAM Tool for deleting the code, but does the MINI go into a limp mode or loose performance when the DME detects neg O2 sensor readings?

Im almost looking to purchase the Akrovick Delete R, so to prevent a CEL all together.

Any thoughts?

 

Best option is to tune it out or you won't pass the emission test

 

Well in NC they don't do emissions test. They just check OBDII readings. Tuning not an option for N18 at this moment.

 

I'm not expert on NC emissions, but if memory serves it's federal law even though, it varies by state.

If they do obdii it works like this. It basically checks to make sure the o2 sensors are working and that the emissions are within the defined parameters from the factory.If not that's why you get check engine lights, in which you'll fail automatically. ( that's my understanding correct me if I'm wrong )

Most people do tune n18's, I think one company somewhere on NAM, can do it through obdii, otherwise you'll have send it in.



Sent from phone

 

I would think that a catalytic converter gets hotter than an open downpipe, as the process of catalyzing hydrocarbons is an exothermic one i.e. it makes heat, lots of it. Yes, the exhaust will flow faster, improving heat transfer through the downpipe tubing, but it is still not as much heat as a working catalytic converter would put out.

Besides, the WMW downpipe has brackets on it to remount the heat shields, it should be cooler under the hood than with the catalytic converter.

Dave

 

Ok here's some mathematics delete R $290 tune avg $650.
$650-$290=$360 you have now got rid of your cel and you could look at it that your tune cost you $360.

 

I've ran a Catless header system on my SC Tacoma. Had an O2 simulator installed and state inspections were a go. There has to be a way to do this for N18 without changing my tune. I've heard of a few tunes but I'm sticking w/ BM JB+ Tune cause it's working and I'm lovin it. Come on, somebody out there has to have found a fix for the CEL. I care less about fed emission laws. There are worse things out there destroying our environment, LOL...