I have worn out the search button looking for an answer.
I have a 2006 Cooper S and I am looking at getting new brake rotors, the drilled and slotted variety.
I have been using Rockauto.com to get a lot of the other parts I have needed for my car, and I am looking at the rotors on there as well. I noticed that some of the rotors have a statement that says they are for cars through 6/06 and others are for after 7/06.
Does anyone out there have any idea what the difference is?
From what I can tell, all the measurements are the same.
As the manufacture date of my car is 11/05 I don't want to get the wrong rotors.

 

i wasnt aware there was a difference in brakes for all the years, unless you had the JCW

 

After 7/06 would be the 2007 model year (2nd generation, R56 with larger rotors).

 

You will need the pre or up to 7/2006. Unless you have the JCW brake upgrade kit ( the one with the red JCW calipers with the JCW emblem. You will just need the stock size for the fronts and rear. The change after that year was the wheel bolt size among others.

10.86" (276x22) pre or up to 7/2006 Non JCW ( Not for John Cooper Works) for the fronts OEM part # 34111502891. And the rear up to 7/2006 any , as the share the same size as JCW brakes for Gen 1 MINIs. OEM MINI part # 34211503070 .

Here are some rotors For your 2006 R53 MINI Cooper S

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2006-Cooper-R53-S-Coupe-L4_1.6L_W11B16A/Braking/Rotors/

We have our ECS Geomet Cross drilled and Slotted or just slotted for front and rear. We also have many other brands.







Dont forget to replace the rotor screw, one per wheel and put a little anti-seize on it when installing. Takes a T50 size torx bit.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/07136772426/



Thanks and hope that helps. 7/2006 was a split year for the rotors.

 

Dont forget to replace the rotor screw, one per wheel and put a little anti-seize on it when installing. Takes a T50 size torx bit.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/07136772426/



Thanks and hope that helps. 7/2006 was a split year for the rotors.[/QUOTE]

What is the purpose of this screw? Is it put on during assembly for the purpose of keeping the disks from falling off prior to wheel installation, or does is serve some purpose post assembly?

 

Is it put on during assembly for the purpose of keeping the disks from falling off prior to wheel installation, or does is serve some purpose post assembly?

you got it .. but many people trash 'em getting 'em off. You don't really need 'em at all.

If you get them out successfully I see NO reason to buy new ... I've never broken one getting 'em out and I've done my MINI brakes and for others many times since 2004.

Give a good long soak with PB blaster or similar. Fit the torx socket to a breaker bar. Block the hub so it can't turn and use one hand to really press the torx bit into the bolt, then use firm steady pressure on the bar. It WILL come out .... I believe too many people allow the bit to slip out ... then it spins and strips the threads ... ESP'ly if trying an impact wrench.

and YES - anti-seize when you but things back together.

*****
and compare prices .....

check WAY

 

Hold the rotor to the hub.

When mounting the wheel back on it keep the rotor in place so if you bump the rotor it does not mis-align the hole for the insert of the wheel bolt.

 

Thanks Capt'n and ECS guy. I've got three out and the 4th is all torx-ed up! I'll have to cut a groove in the top and keep trying with a flat blade and impact driver, and some heat. Lots of heat.

 

Imo
Just drill it out...
Then go boltless....
Too much heat can dammage the hub...sure a few seconds of propane is ok...but watch out!!

 

I wouldn't worry about using propane. This whole area get plenty hot out on the track and as long as it doesn't start to glow it should be fine. Oxy torch would be another story. If slotting the head and heating it doesn't work, just drill the head off and leave the rest of it in place. At least you have the little stub to keep the wheel bolt holes lined up.

If you get it out, I would put a new bolt back in. If nothing else it makes taking the wheel off and putting it back on easier. But I put them on only finger tight and with a good shot of never seize on the threads. I live in a salted city and have never had a problem doing that.

As for getting them out - Take the wheel off. Have someone press on the brake while you loosen the screw.