R50/53 06 Cooper (non-S) big repair bill... need help!
06 Cooper (non-S) big repair bill... need help!
I have had my 06 Cooper since 2008. Purchased with 52k miles and it now has 107k. Aside from a thermostat, and the occasional dead battery, this car has been rock solid. My extended warranty and service package (which I should have known better than purchase) expired at 100k miles... so now the fun begins...?
I was/am about 3,000 miles from the next regular maintenance interval, but the dummy light for brake pads turned on a few weeks ago, so I decided to bring it in to the Mini dealer to have the brakes looked at along with getting the regular maintenance ahead of schedule. Note that I was having no strange noises or indications that anything was wrong except the dummy light, and also note I am by no means a "car guy".
I was told the following: (my verbiage might be a bit off because I was on the phone at a soccer practice with nothing to write on...)
1) Control arm bushing is cracked and needs to be replaced ($750)
2) Strut/shock absorbers cracked and needs to be replaced ($750)
3) Front brakes are "metal to metal" and so the rotors and the pads need to be replaced. (>$500)
4) One of the tires (which I just bought maybe 15k miles ago) supposedly needs to be replaced. (I'll just go back to where I bought the tires about this)
Between this and the $300 service, I am now looking at a $2,500 bill after tax. I am in SHOCK. My questions for the forum are:
1) Are these repair costs reasonable?
2) Should I expect future problems with this model year? If yes, what typically (and how much)? I had hoped to make this car last for 3 years until my wife's car was paid off...
Thank you all very much in advance for dealing with and helping a newbie.
Andy
I was/am about 3,000 miles from the next regular maintenance interval, but the dummy light for brake pads turned on a few weeks ago, so I decided to bring it in to the Mini dealer to have the brakes looked at along with getting the regular maintenance ahead of schedule. Note that I was having no strange noises or indications that anything was wrong except the dummy light, and also note I am by no means a "car guy".
I was told the following: (my verbiage might be a bit off because I was on the phone at a soccer practice with nothing to write on...)
1) Control arm bushing is cracked and needs to be replaced ($750)
2) Strut/shock absorbers cracked and needs to be replaced ($750)
3) Front brakes are "metal to metal" and so the rotors and the pads need to be replaced. (>$500)
4) One of the tires (which I just bought maybe 15k miles ago) supposedly needs to be replaced. (I'll just go back to where I bought the tires about this)
Between this and the $300 service, I am now looking at a $2,500 bill after tax. I am in SHOCK. My questions for the forum are:
1) Are these repair costs reasonable?
2) Should I expect future problems with this model year? If yes, what typically (and how much)? I had hoped to make this car last for 3 years until my wife's car was paid off...
Thank you all very much in advance for dealing with and helping a newbie.
Andy
Go to a nondealer....
Will cost you about 50-60% of the dealers quote....
Ask around...find a good shop that knows mini's....
Nobody can tell you if you need/don't need something without looking at your car...
But dealers sometimes tend to give folks BIG estimates to scare them into trading in a car and buying a NEW one...after all...they will say...you could use the the $$ saved on repairs as a down payment....(and get a monthly bill for the next few YEARS).....
Will cost you about 50-60% of the dealers quote....
Ask around...find a good shop that knows mini's....
Nobody can tell you if you need/don't need something without looking at your car...
But dealers sometimes tend to give folks BIG estimates to scare them into trading in a car and buying a NEW one...after all...they will say...you could use the the $$ saved on repairs as a down payment....(and get a monthly bill for the next few YEARS).....
All of those items are common wear items. Price seems about right for a dealer but would be considerably cheaper at your favorite local independent shop. Always replace brakes in advance of needing replacement, not after. Control arm bushings commonly go much sooner than 100k (mine are dying at 53k). Not sure about shocks, but anything over 80k on shocks is borrowed time. If you're only getting 15k out of tires, I'd get an alignment after the control arm bushing and shock is replaced.
Doing all of this labor yourself would save you about $1700 or $1800 of that repair bill.
Doing all of this labor yourself would save you about $1700 or $1800 of that repair bill.
Andy,
Look up Way Motors. He is more than helpful with this sort of thing.
Get a second opinion on all of this from an independent.
Do the work in stages, if needed. Do brakes first and foremost. Then save up to do the next thing.
Look at used for shocks. There are a lot of people who post on the NAM market place with these types of parts, in good shape, when they change them out to put in upgrades.
Can you handle a wrench? Do the brakes yourself. They are not that hard and there are some good DIY instructions on NAM.
Post where you are located and maybe someone knows a good shop for you.
Take a deep breath, let it out. Love your MINI and let us know how it works out.
Look up Way Motors. He is more than helpful with this sort of thing.
Get a second opinion on all of this from an independent.
Do the work in stages, if needed. Do brakes first and foremost. Then save up to do the next thing.
Look at used for shocks. There are a lot of people who post on the NAM market place with these types of parts, in good shape, when they change them out to put in upgrades.
Can you handle a wrench? Do the brakes yourself. They are not that hard and there are some good DIY instructions on NAM.
Post where you are located and maybe someone knows a good shop for you.
Take a deep breath, let it out. Love your MINI and let us know how it works out.
Thank you all for the prompt responses! Eddie, I haven't spent much time working on vehicles in many years, but am not afraid to do so... I did some research after making this post and watched a few youtube videos on changing pads and rotors and may give that part a shot myself.
I am in Orlando, FL. I found a couple of independent shops through a website link on another post in this forum, but it would be great to get firsthand recommendations.
Zippy / Colby, thanks for your posts as well. Extremely helpful information that I will be putting to use.
Andy
I am in Orlando, FL. I found a couple of independent shops through a website link on another post in this forum, but it would be great to get firsthand recommendations.
Zippy / Colby, thanks for your posts as well. Extremely helpful information that I will be putting to use.
Andy
Like they said, we have all the parts in stock and can ship them to help you out. There are many aftermarket alternatives that are better than stock and usually cheaper.
If your close enough your welcome to bring it to us for the service, or depending on where you are maybe we can advise you of someone trustworthy.
If your close enough your welcome to bring it to us for the service, or depending on where you are maybe we can advise you of someone trustworthy.
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Thank you all for the prompt responses! Eddie, I haven't spent much time working on vehicles in many years, but am not afraid to do so... I did some research after making this post and watched a few youtube videos on changing pads and rotors and may give that part a shot myself.
Andy
Andy
Harbor Freight is good for spring compressor and brake caliper piston compression tool. Their aluminum floor jack is great also.
The hardest thing about the brakes is the Torx screw that holds on the rotor, if it is rusted. Get a good quality Torx bit to work that one.
Good luck with all of it.
This happened to me on my '03 about 3 years ago. I've learned to never take my MINI for service at the dealer since. Halfway surprised they didn't throw in a leaky oil pan gasket like they did for me too!
At any rate, here's what I say about each:
And now your other questions:
At any rate, here's what I say about each:
1. Very common to wear out. Car drives fine, but will be a little "loose" up front. Had an independent shop do mine for $300 labor + about $90 for the parts I bought myself. If $$ is tight, I would put this one off.
2. They're probably talking about the strut mounts, which commonly tear. You could pop the bonnet and see the tear(s) yourself. Like number 1, not a huge deal for the short term, but you should have them replaced eventually. It's very unlikely that your struts need to be replaced, and if a shop tries to sell you struts with the strut mount job, I say don't go for the struts - only the strut mounts.
3. If the sensor only recently triggered, it's probably not metal-to-metal yet, but it will be soon. Like others have said, brakes can be done just about anywhere, and you should have this done soon.
4. Which tire was it? There's a chance some of the front suspension stuff that has failed has put your alignement off causing excessive tire wear. When you do get the suspension work done, you should have the car aligned. Also, if it was a rear tire, it could be due to excessive camber, which you can fix by putting in some adjustable rear control arms. I had to put these on my MINI.
2. They're probably talking about the strut mounts, which commonly tear. You could pop the bonnet and see the tear(s) yourself. Like number 1, not a huge deal for the short term, but you should have them replaced eventually. It's very unlikely that your struts need to be replaced, and if a shop tries to sell you struts with the strut mount job, I say don't go for the struts - only the strut mounts.
3. If the sensor only recently triggered, it's probably not metal-to-metal yet, but it will be soon. Like others have said, brakes can be done just about anywhere, and you should have this done soon.
4. Which tire was it? There's a chance some of the front suspension stuff that has failed has put your alignement off causing excessive tire wear. When you do get the suspension work done, you should have the car aligned. Also, if it was a rear tire, it could be due to excessive camber, which you can fix by putting in some adjustable rear control arms. I had to put these on my MINI.
And now your other questions:
1. Yes, those repair costs are outrageously high. They don't call it the stealership for nothing....
2. Is it an automatic or manual? If it's an automatic, you should get rid of it as quickly as you can. The CVT transmissions are known to fail (mine failed at 120k), and that repair is upwards of $5-6k at an independent shop. The dealer would likely be higher. There has even been a class action lawsuit about the CVT failures....
2. Is it an automatic or manual? If it's an automatic, you should get rid of it as quickly as you can. The CVT transmissions are known to fail (mine failed at 120k), and that repair is upwards of $5-6k at an independent shop. The dealer would likely be higher. There has even been a class action lawsuit about the CVT failures....
This URL will take you to soopercooperinfo.com/ independent repair shops. It shows 6 in the Orlando area. Check with your local MINI club people for a recommendation.
http://soopercooperinfo.com/lindaminiinfo.html
http://soopercooperinfo.com/lindaminiinfo.html
Unfortunately not true. CVTs were used on all first gen non-S coopers with automatics all the way through 2006. Wasn't replaced with a 6 speed automatic until the second gens. Non-S cabrios up to '08 have the CVT.
I guess I will learn more today.
Thanks.
Andy
2. Is it an automatic or manual? If it's an automatic, you should get rid of it as quickly as you can. The CVT transmissions are known to fail (mine failed at 120k), and that repair is upwards of $5-6k at an independent shop. The dealer would likely be higher. There has even been a class action lawsuit about the CVT failures....
Andy
WHOA NELLY! If you're in O-town check out Ian @ Maitland Imports. Living in Tampa Bay I've never used him but he has a good rep among MINI owners, and I wouldn't hesitate to take my car there if circumstances arose (breakdown on a road trip, etc.)
If you need more info on Ian or other suggestions check out the Orlando section of Sunshine MINI's here.
If you need more info on Ian or other suggestions check out the Orlando section of Sunshine MINI's here.
Thanks for the correction, I had the wrong info, Thanks
Yup, this makes a big difference. I'm not sure what makes the most sense in terms of fixing things first or not before trying to sell or trading in, but you should start thinking about unloading it while the transmission is still good. You'll save yourself a big headache - one I had to go through it 2 years ago. I don't regret the outcome (6-speed manual), but it was expensive and I wouldn't have done it if the car didn't have personal value to my wife and I.
WHOA NELLY! If you're in O-town check out Ian @ Maitland Imports. Living in Tampa Bay I've never used him but he has a good rep among MINI owners, and I wouldn't hesitate to take my car there if circumstances arose (breakdown on a road trip, etc.)
If you need more info on Ian or other suggestions check out the Orlando section of Sunshine MINI's here.
If you need more info on Ian or other suggestions check out the Orlando section of Sunshine MINI's here.
Expensive repair at dealership, but some freebie
I have my wife's 06 MINI in nearby dealership to check DSC and Flat tire warning lights after a parking lots fender bender. Dealer came back with following cost repairs.
1. Replace steering wheel angle sensor $1000
2. Replace thermostat housing (already did during first 6 months of ownership)
3. Replace Rear Brake pad $417
4. Surprised, free replacement of CVT transimission under good will from MINI!
I opted for #1 and #4 at the dealership and reserved #2 and #3 for a second opinion at an indy shop. Lessons learned, dealership can replace/repair for certain things under extended warranty or good will, but will cost you an arm and a leg for others. The positive side is I got to drive a MINI coup loaner for free while the car is in the dealership.
1. Replace steering wheel angle sensor $1000
2. Replace thermostat housing (already did during first 6 months of ownership)
3. Replace Rear Brake pad $417
4. Surprised, free replacement of CVT transimission under good will from MINI!
I opted for #1 and #4 at the dealership and reserved #2 and #3 for a second opinion at an indy shop. Lessons learned, dealership can replace/repair for certain things under extended warranty or good will, but will cost you an arm and a leg for others. The positive side is I got to drive a MINI coup loaner for free while the car is in the dealership.
check out sunshineminis.org for Florida recommendations
http://www.sunshineminis.org/forums/...5f19d8e255d0b8
but yes, Ian's name comes up often and I don't recall a bad comment.
"At 140,000 miles things on a Mini start to wear out and need replacing. Some of my immediate issues I was able to handle myself (starter and a few hoses) but realistically, without a lift and a lot of tools, I had to leave the rest to the experts at Maitland Importers in Orlando. Solid work at a more than reasonably fair price. Corner of Church St and Westmoreland."
http://www.sunshineminis.org/forums/...5f19d8e255d0b8
but yes, Ian's name comes up often and I don't recall a bad comment.
"At 140,000 miles things on a Mini start to wear out and need replacing. Some of my immediate issues I was able to handle myself (starter and a few hoses) but realistically, without a lift and a lot of tools, I had to leave the rest to the experts at Maitland Importers in Orlando. Solid work at a more than reasonably fair price. Corner of Church St and Westmoreland."
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