Tires, Wheels, & Brakes Discussion about wheels, tires, and brakes for the new MINI.
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refinishing a R90 wheel

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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 07:17 AM
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refinishing a R90 wheel

It looks like some sort of chemical has gotten under the clear coat on the lips of my wheels.
If I strip off the clear coat, can I just polish up the aluminum underneath?
Are the lips just coated with a generic can of clear coat?
Do you need to do any particular kind of curing, such as under some sort of heat?
I understand you can reuse the original bolts if you use some loctite and which is recommended, red or blue?
If the lips are clear coated how will it hold up when they mount the tire, won't the tire mounting machine screw up the clear coat?
Thanks
 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 08:04 AM
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Is that on just one or are all 4 starting to show? Could this have happened by virtue of curb rash? I had all 4 wheels redone at a body shop this past spring and after a 4500 mile road trip, MITO and all about town driving they're starting to look sad again. Any time you have rubber mounted, those machines are going to mark the rims, it's just a given.


The body shop did not disassemble the wheels and they did bake on the paint and clear coat but if you want to do a little touch up, it won't hurt but I wouldn't count on it being very durable. Wheels are just out there exposed to the worst the road has to offer and are going to show it, no way around it.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 08:19 AM
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how was it getting the bolts out in good shape?
please let us know.
Thanks
 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Fly'n Brick
Is that on just one or are all 4 starting to show? Could this have happened by virtue of curb rash? I had all 4 wheels redone at a body shop this past spring and after a 4500 mile road trip, MITO and all about town driving they're starting to look sad again. Any time you have rubber mounted, those machines are going to mark the rims, it's just a given.


The body shop did not disassemble the wheels and they did bake on the paint and clear coat but if you want to do a little touch up, it won't hurt but I wouldn't count on it being very durable. Wheels are just out there exposed to the worst the road has to offer and are going to show it, no way around it.
Considering I am in SoCal, my wheels are pretty much the way I got them coming from back east. Perhaps the road salt may have gotten under the clear coat. No curb rash that is the cause. It all originates from inside the wheel. Just 3 wheels are getting bad. It may look like its on the surface, but believe me, its under the clear coat. Its like a mold spreading.
What type of tool do I need to take those bolts out? Looks like Torx.

 

Last edited by bcgreen; Nov 30, 2013 at 12:30 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 11:09 AM
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I have the same issues with mine. Took it to a wheel refinisher and they told me the best they could do was to sand down and polish the lip and paint over it. But it was going to cost $150 per wheel! Heck, that's the price of a new wheel, or at least a nice dent in the price of some of the more exotic brands...
 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 02:41 PM
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Dang, that looks like they're turning into zombie rims. Those are torx head bolts. I would be concerned about getting them torqued down correctly after reassembly. Think of the joy of having one fly apart on the freeway. Maybe break them out with a torque wrench so you can see how tight they were. Doubt if the ft/# is published for those rims. If you want to DIY, I'll bet you can find a close match for color and there are a variety of clearcoats available. Don't forget to have them rebalanced, they'll no doubt be clear off the chart.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Fly'n Brick
Dang, that looks like they're turning into zombie rims. Those are torx head bolts. I would be concerned about getting them torqued down correctly after reassembly. Think of the joy of having one fly apart on the freeway. Maybe break them out with a torque wrench so you can see how tight they were. Doubt if the ft/# is published for those rims. If you want to DIY, I'll bet you can find a close match for color and there are a variety of clearcoats available. Don't forget to have them rebalanced, they'll no doubt be clear off the chart.
If I am just doing the rims do I need to match the colour? I just need to coat the rims with a good quality clear coat, as long as its a name brand, right, or do you have a suggestion?
I guess I will have to touch up the rims after the tires are mounted.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 05:50 AM
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I had the same problem with mine. Dismount the tires and take the rims apart using a 12 point internal socket. It is not a Torx. A Torx is 6 point. The tool you want is made by K-D, #2304, and available at NAPA.

Use fine sandpaper, polish, etc to get the rim the way you want it and then have them clear coated. I did mine several years ago and they still look good. Now would be a good time to paint the wheel centers if needed or if you don't like the color. I had mine done in black.

Use loctite to reassemble. The torque figure is out there on the 'net somewhere. Tighten them down like you would a cylinder head and dble check that they're all tight. They will not fall apart.

As to mounting tires, if the shop has the right kind of mounting equipment that does not touch the rim they won't be scratched up. If they don't have it, move on to one that does.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Super Coop
I had the same problem with mine. Dismount the tires and take the rims apart using a 12 point internal socket. It is not a Torx. A Torx is 6 point. The tool you want is made by K-D, #2304, and available at NAPA.

Use fine sandpaper, polish, etc to get the rim the way you want it and then have them clear coated. I did mine several years ago and they still look good. Now would be a good time to paint the wheel centers if needed or if you don't like the color. I had mine done in black.

Use loctite to reassemble. The torque figure is out there on the 'net somewhere. Tighten them down like you would a cylinder head and dble check that they're all tight. They will not fall apart.

As to mounting tires, if the shop has the right kind of mounting equipment that does not touch the rim they won't be scratched up. If they don't have it, move on to one that does.
I thank you very much for this helpful info. This gives me confidence that the wheels will turn out great. I will search for the torque figures and the right tire shop.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 07:28 AM
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Another suggestion. After you get everything put back together go out for a drive of some distance and speed then re-check the torque on those rim bolts. I do that after remounting the wheels after a detailing session and always find another bit of turn on the wrench.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Fly'n Brick
Another suggestion. After you get everything put back together go out for a drive of some distance and speed then re-check the torque on those rim bolts. I do that after remounting the wheels after a detailing session and always find another bit of turn on the wrench.
After I've done detailing, I've not rechecked the torque on the wheels. I will have to make that a habit going forward. In this case with taking the wheels apart, its even more important.
I am hoping 21ft/lbs is the correct number for the rim bolts.
Thanks
 

Last edited by bcgreen; Dec 1, 2013 at 06:17 PM.
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