Kind of weird I guess. If I go over 30 mph into a right hand curve, I get this odd vibrational sensation from the left front wheel. If varies by speed and intensity of the curve but sensation is sort of the same as running over the rumble strips on the edge of the freeway, only muted.


I've replaced the Left Wheel bearing\hub. The noise is still there, but it sounds the same only a little different. I rotated that wheel off to the back....same exact thing. So what are your thoughts?


Is it the axle going bad, cv howling when the bearings load up or something else rubbing by engine movement perhaps? I run NMs and yellows with 205\45-17. Any ideas anyone?

 

How many miles on it? If high, I would suspect the CV joint..

 

Nearing 90K. There is no axle crunching or knocking upon take up which I would expect to hear from a failing CV joint however. Boots are intact. Part number labels are still on the it and readable like near new!

 

Had a similar problem that I blamed on a bent rim. Sold the rims and informed the buyer. He checked it out and discovered the tire was mounted on the rim incorrectly.

 

I had that thought too. Wheels are nearly new and I haven't hit anything and my dog don't drive. I put the front on the rear with the same sound. I'm ruling out the wheels and tires for now. Thanks!

 

Check the inner plunge joint on the axle.

Side forces load it up under power on curves... But not like an outer cv gets in a parking lot.

 

Thanks Dan! Is there a way to check this without pulling the shaft or replacing it?

 

Well, sort of...

The inner plunge joint moves in and out as the car goes over bumps and around curvy turns that have body roll. (yea I know its a Mini, but still..).

The inner joints fail mainly from age, the grease dries out from the heat from the down pipe. (this is not Mini specific)

Get under the car safely. On jackstands, car in neutral.

Grab the inner joint where it plugs into the trans - and then grab the shaft of the axle. Try to shift them around feel for looseness.

Give the boots a squeeze... if they sound like air is puffing out of them chances are they are dry.

You might be able to pop the clamps (they are not reusable) and pull the boot back and pack some more grease into the joint and see if that helps with the vibration.. I've saved a few axles doing this. And you CAN do it without pulling the axle.

The better method is to pull the axle and inspect the plunge joint on a bench... it can be done in the car.. as long as the lower ball joint, axle nut, and tie rod are removed you can spin the axle and plunge it in and out while its still on the car. But this takes to to 99% way into replacing the axle... lol..

 

Just to update: I took the car to the dealer and paid $120 for a ride with a tech so he could identify the vibration. They discovered that the strut bearing on the left, the piece that fastens to the strut\strut tower was shot, rubber ripped up. The one on the right is going but not nearly as bad as the left. Cost estimate to replace both: $815.00. Each piece is about $112, so I ordered one and I'll replace it this weekend, replace the other the following week and get it realign, all presuming that kills the vibrational howling. Spring compressor at Autozone = free.

 

It's clear you need new strut bearings, Mike, but I'm not convinced that the bad strut bearings are the source of your noise, based upon your original post. If the noise is speed dependent, I think it's more likely that a bearing or rotational part that turns faster with vehicle speed is the culprit. Did you check the other front wheel bearing?

BTW, $800 plus for strut bearing replacement is steep. We charge $170 for the labor.

 

I tried to be accurate in my description of the symptoms. The sensation is speed dependent only on the fact that you have to load up that side in a curve. It could occur at any speed really, it just depends on the intensity of the curve - less curve, more speed is required. So the left side bearing is pretty trashed they told me and the right side is in need of replacement but not near as bad. So, I'm going to change out the left side myself this weekend and see what I've got. Ya, for sure, the dealer prices are pretty steep. $815 was for both sides and full boat on the parts. I think list is $160 each. $495 labor. End of day Saturday I'll have something to report!

 

Saturday update: Helix is correct! Strut bearing was not the culprit. I am even unable to tell that the rubber was in fact torn. Bearings were a little wobbly and the grease in them starting to melt out so it did need some attention. Sure glad I didn't pay for both at $800. I'll see what the dealer tech has to say now. If anything the vibration sensation is more pronounced now that the piece has been replaced. It's dead quiet straight and left hand curves. Back to the drawing board. I see ECS offering the same part in aftermarket for $32 vs $111.00 at the dealer. I wonder if they are the same part??


OK. Couldn't stand it. Got another bearing and installed in on the right side. Noise is still there, of course. It changed a little, but the sound still sounds tire related wminating from the left front even though I rotated them out. I haven't ruled out an axle issue, but since they are over $500, I guess I'll have them put it on alignment and see what comes up next to change out, to rule out.

 

I have been getting noise in the same general location. When driving some twisty roads going right to left the noise is on the right side in the general location of the timing chain tensenor. A year ago a ton of oil was on my garage floor and I couldn't see where it came from. Wiped down the area and engine, did oil change and then nothing. No leak etc.
Cold start issue is inconsistent, but always on first start in the morning when cold.