Hey dudes, any clue where would be the best/cheapest place to buy the knee protection and button for the MINI driving lights? Just got a really good deal on the lights themselves, now i just need the button/knee protector...maybe even just the button because I have heard you can dremel the cutout on the existing part.

Thanks a ton.

 

I don't believe you can buy the switch separately but you can certainly remove the knee bolster and install an aftermarket switch. I used a Hella switch and mounted it in the oem position.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...switch-003.jpg

 

Oh wow! That looks really good actually.

 

OP

if you are not using the OE harness (and I would NOT) the OE switch is not what you want cuz it is not a simple on/off switch

all you need is a simple toggle or any other 1 wire interrupter (on/off) and it is easy to pull the knee panel off and cut a hole as needed/desired

if you need more explain' just PM me. I just helped another with this question this past weekend . . .

******
you got a deal on "the lights"

mounts? and modified grill? Harness and relays?

 

Dude good stuff, Bj thanks for the advice. Sorry im pretty new here...so I'm guessing OE means original equipment? Like the wiring that came with the lights? What is the reason you wouldn't use that stuff?
By good deal on the lights I meant, I bought an OEM black driving light kit that had never been used...meaning it only came with the stuff you need to install the lights and electrical system...no switch, no mounts, no grille, no "knee protection."

 

hmmmm

to properly install the OE(M) kit you need the parts I mention so what I would call a complete kit includes them

A modified grill (shown in the far right image) is required to make room for the brackets. MINI offers 3 grill choices which are only available WITH the brackets and are included in our price as is the basic switch which replaces the far left dash panel (hence the large price tag). Other dash colors are available. You could modify your existing grill to allow the bracket to fit but the slot is fairly large and MINI only offers the bracket with the grill. Go figure. Also, the brackets can only be used in conjunction with their lights because they mate together in order to allow them to angle and pivot. As a result the lights can be only used with their brackets.

http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...light_kit.html

Why would I not use the OE harness?

The OEM harness provides "increased functionality" to the DL's and in turn significantly complicates installation. In short, DLs really just need to be connected to power and have an on/off switch. The factory install ensures the lights on come on with high beams (a legal requirement) and provide a more complicated on/off. The switch "activates" the DL's which will then stay tied to the high beams so long as the switch and ignition stay of. Turning off either "uncouples" the DLs - the switch turns off automatically when the ignition is turned off, and must be reset the next time the car is started. Complicated IMO ... and makes for a few extra wires and relays in the factory kit. I've had several folks come to me for hints on re-wiring to a simple on off because they want "to turn 'em on when I want ... anytime I want"

 

Thanks DJ, well...I'm not sure i want to buy an extra wiring system because I already have the oem harness...it would cost me more and I can't see myself wanting the rally lights on when my low beams aren't. When I say light kit I mean just the harness, lights, plugs, light covers...which is what the actual light kit includes. The other pieces (mounts and grille, and the button) are sold separately and it specifies that in the actual installation instructions. So, I knew what I was getting and what I was paying for...the kit I got is 375(?) I think from the dealer and I bought it for 200.

As far as the brackets go, you can actually buy them separately from Penske. Unfortunately I realized it was nearly impossible to find the r56 fitting brackets (that come with the grille) after the fact. So now I have to buy them from Penske at a stupid price.

 

By high beams do you mean your "brights"? The factory install allows the lights to come on with normal low beams too correct?

 

Just ordered my JCW this weekend and looked at driving lights, and was told by my MA that the oem DLs are more for looks than functional driving lights because they only turn on with the high beams as mentioned before. I would basically use it on those rare occasions and opted out of it.

 

Well, in that case maybe BJ's idea is the best way to go seeing as though I rarely use my high beams. Bummer. Hey BJ where would I get a non oe harness for the lights so I could do the install your way?

 

Do you think there is a way to modify the wiring on the oe harness to bypass that feature?

 

I rarely use my high beams.

then you would NEVER need DLs . . .



I've PM'd you some information

a generic driving light harness and switch costs under $20 as a kit at any decent auto-part store. Or $15 in parts from a parts store or radio shack.

Do you think there is a way to modify the wiring on the oe harness to bypass that feature?

WAY WAY not worth the effort


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for what it is worth ... by definition and most state laws, driving lights should ONLY be used when high beams / brights are on .....

the factory kit is designed to prevent the DLs from being ON at any time other than when HIGH BEAM is on.

IF you install DLs with "full control" PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE ensure they are aimed so as not to BLIND other drivers . . . and use them appropriately

 

That doesn't sound like its too much money to do that. The thing I'm worried about now is trade in value if I do that. And yes, I will absolutely read the zeroing instructions for the lights. I cannot stand when people blind me.

 

You could always remove them before selling. : )

 

Not if I've dremeled into the dash.

 

What is a good power source? I have the lights from my last Mini. I ran a single wire from each lamp and i when touch them to the positive terminal they come on. I just need a fuse, switch and power source in the car. Any suggestions.
Thanks

 

You can get constant 12v power from the large red wire going into the back of the under hood fuse box. You really need to add a relay connected to your high beams otherwise the driving lights will stay on when you shut off the car and could result in a dead battery.