I need to change my winter wheels (rims + winter tires) for my summer set (R83 mags + runfalts). I am currently looking for the right tools to tackle the job.

I have two options: I either get a torque wrench, a gorilla power wrench and flex my under-used muscles or get an electric impact wrench and buy a 17mm Accu-Torq bit (http://www.accutorq.com) calibrated to 90 pounds. The bit goes for about 50$cdn plus taxes.

Did any of you guys ever work with an Accu-Torq ? Apparently, the salesman I spoke to on the phone told me it was as accurate as a torque wrench. The impact/accu-torq combo would be the more expensive option, but would it be considerably faster ? As a sidenote to my question, with an impact wrench can I just remove the lugs rapidly or I would have to "start" them with the power wrench before using the impact anyway ?


Cheers,

--
paco

 

I professionally have spent the last seven years with a snap-on torque wrench in my hands and I would take wrench over the Accu-torq any day. DO NOT tighten wheels without some form of torque measuring tool. Over tightened wheels will result in warped rotors and undertightened, possibly worse. Buy a four-way to spin bolts in and a torque wrench to tighten them.

 

wseattlemini,

The Accu-Torq bit is designed to click when it reaches the desired pressure ...
Check them out at http://www.accutorq.com and let me know what you think :smile:
Would you think they would be less accurate than a torque wrench ?


--
paco

 

I have used them before and would approve them for wheel installation. I didn't mean to discredit them, just wanted you to use something with measurable torque. For wheels they are perfect. Nothing to adjust or remember. For engine building a good quality torque wrench is a must. To address your second question; you can remove the bolts with the impact wrench if you like. Always start them by hand.

 

The cheapest "clicker-type" torque wrench I could find in Montreal is 100$cdn at Sears'. SK's go for 150$cdn. An impact wrench goes for 170$cdn and the bit for 50$cdn. That's why I was wondering about the impact wrench.

I was looking at TireRack's 30$usd model. Do you know of any other place I should look at ? What would you think of that 30$ TireRack Torque Wrench ? :smile: Would you know who makes it ?

It's funny how I was told not to shell out money for a torque wrench by three persons already. I guess it is not common practice amongst drivers here ? I was just told to torque until it was f***ing tight so I would not lose a wheel

Thanks,


--
paco

 

Anybody who is serious about doing a job right will use a torque wrench for all but the most minor adjustments. Use of a torque wrench is definitly a common practice among drivers here.

Get a good one with a lifetime guarantee. I have the "digital" one made by Craftsman and I really like how easy it is to adjust it using the dial.



_________________

SE Regional, BAMA Club Moderator: PM me

 

>>I was looking at TireRack's 30$usd model. Do you know of any other place I should look at ? What would you think of that 30$ TireRack Torque Wrench ? :smile: Would you know who makes it ?

Gorilla is the manufacture. I picked one up 3 years ago rather than paying to get my exprensive wrench recalibrated.

Alex

 

Well I bit the bullet and ordered an SK torque wrench ...

I spoke with Roger at TheTireRack but he didn't know who made the torque wrench you guys carry.
Maybe I should try and cancel my SK order and go with the Gorilla instead ?


--
paco

 

Stick with your SK order. That is a fine tool and you will need it for other tasks down the road anyway. Happy torqueing! :smile:

 

maybe this is a good thread to pose this question on

pacostudio's first post mentioned an electric impact wrench. were you talking about a cordless one?

a few years ago at a Miata autocross event, I saw someone using a battery operated impact wrench. It had enough torque and battery to undo and tighten a set of wheels at least twice. I know he was using the cordless impact wrench to take the lugs off, but I think he finished up the tightening process with a good old fashioned clicking torque wrench.

does anybody, please, have any idea where something like this can be found for sale?

HunterBoss

 

A good torque wrench is essential for many jobs on/under your car. A good 3/8th drive is around $80 at sears. The 1/2" drive is around $100. The digital torque sensor mentioned above is about$150, and IMO not necessary. Almost all torque ratchet drives are adjustable from 25 to around 200 inch pounds. The arms ar generally longer than a normal ratchet to allow you more 'lever'. I have the 3/8 drive Craftsman, (all of my metric sockets are 3/8 drive) and it works excellent. All of Sears' handtools are gauranteed for life, another benefit - and they wont hassle you when you bring 'em back - even giving you an updated version at no additional cost. I had a 3/4" long arm box wrench that I applied too much torque to develop a hairline crack in the 'jaw'. I didn't have the reciept - actually, I think my father had given it to me second hand - and they replaced it on the spot, no questions.

If you plan on an exhaust change, you'll need a torque wrench for the clamps. My borla wanted 35 in/lbs. It would have been really easy to over/under tighten these. If you plan on working on your own car at all, pick one up. Also, there are alot of places where an impact wrench would be an inconvience.

-joe

 

What's the correct torque for our lug nuts anyway?

Thanks,

Ken

 

110 NM or 90 lbs FT

on your bolts

Alex

 

HunterBoss,

The only impact wrench I could find was a corded one for about 170$cdn.
You could always use a normal drill with the right bit just to remove the lugs faster and then you torque them with a torque wrench ?


jcolletteiii,

Actually, I do plan on changing the air intake and exhaust ... eventually :smile:

--
paco

 

Cheapest I've seen for corded electric is around $140 or so (us). Cheapest cordless I've seen is about $250. I prefer the standard old click type long ratchet. $70 bucks.

Having done the intake first, and exhaust second, my advise would be do it the other way round. The exhaust definitely makes more of a tangible difference. Plus with all of the experimentation and new products coming out, you may find cheaper, better alternatives. I am personally running a rogue intake right now - but I am looking for a k&n type oval filter to fit within the stock airbox. the stock box, being plastic, and completely sealed against the engine bay, may actually end up being a much cheaper, much better alternative to high priced aftermarket units.

If you havn't read the thread om Andy's hot air intake, I suggest you do. Very interesting.

-joe

 

>>110 NM or 90 lbs FT
>>
>>on your bolts
>>
>>Alex


Thanks Alex.

 

>>HunterBoss,
>>
>>The only impact wrench I could find was a corded one for about 170$cdn.
>>You could always use a normal drill with the right bit just to remove the lugs faster and then you torque them with a torque wrench ?

Paco - a 4 way is your cheapest alternative for less than $25 you can make the process easy!

Alex

 

Alex,

Do you recommend lowering the car before or after torqueing the bolts?

Thanks,

retroom




>>110 NM or 90 lbs FT
>>
>>on your bolts
>>
>>Alex

 

Harbor Freight has a $10 clicker torque wrench that would be ok for wheels. I wouldn't trust it for much beyond that, but it should acceptable for wheel bolts.

retroom - get all the wheel bolts good an snug while the wheel is in the air, and then torque them with the car on the ground. Always tighten wheel bolts in a star pattern.

 

I got my used Snap-on "digital" torque wrench in an Las Vegas pawn shop for $35 US. It was marked $99 and I offered $25 to start.

It was a great deal, and I would recommend that people visit their local pawn shops frequently.

Offer about 25% of the asking price with cash in your hand when you offer.

Expect to get called bad names, but then go up a bit and things get better.

I have paid between 25% and 50% of the asking price for everything I have gotten over the years.

 

Thanks early_apex.... that's how I do it now. I just wanted some other opinions on this. It seems to me that torqueing before lowering the car fully to the ground would be more accurate, but will it really make a difference either way..... something to ponder.

retroom




>>Harbor Freight has a $10 clicker torque wrench that would be ok for wheels. I wouldn't trust it for much beyond that, but it should acceptable for wheel bolts.
>>
>>retroom - get all the wheel bolts good an snug while the wheel is in the air, and then torque them with the car on the ground. Always tighten wheel bolts in a star pattern.

 

It's kind of a pain to torque the nuts with the wheels up. On the front, you'll have the torque transferring to the other wheel and trying to pull the car off the jack. BTW, I have been using a torque wrench on all wheels for years. It looks silly, but it saves you a ton on replacing warped rotors. I use an antique Craftsman torque wrench, the kind that bends.

 

>>Alex,
>>
>>Do you recommend lowering the car before or after torqueing the bolts?

Hand tight, using the "reverse spin" technique, then lower and torque accoringly.

Alex

 

What is the "reverse spin technique"?

 

>>What is the "reverse spin technique"?

When you hold your 4 way or lug wrench,
and spin the wheel to the left while keeping the wrench fixed.

Alex