This is our first convertible so I feel very very newb at this...
I've look around NAM and haven't found a lot of information pertaining to care of the roadster soft top. We have had the car for 2 weeks and I'm ready to give it its first bath ( I wanted to make sure the paint was fully set before I clean it and wax it to give it an extra protection).

one thread I found:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rotectant.html


So what's the best way and procedures to:
- Wash the soft top and remove dust and contaminants that could be stuck in the fibers
- To dry it (dos and donts) so it doesn't leave marks.
- To protect it (when, how often)

What else should I be doing to keep it new for a very very long time?
What tools should I have in my possession (links are appreciated )?

Thanks for any help you guys can provide
Greg

 

I used the 303 product after reading posts here. Be very careful when applying. I masked everything and covered all glass with newspapers. Some of the 303 got through and left marks on the glass. I got nervous when my glass cleaner did nothing to the spots. A friend had some all purpose cleaner that got them off. The top beads water very nicely now.

Watch for wear marks on the top near the first cross member (left and right side). When the top is down, my top rubs on the rubber (seal) around the trim. I have 2 wear marks from it. Dealer did nothing so I trimmed the rubber back a little.

Enjoy the car. It's AWESOME!!!

 

Another good product is RaggTopp. Visit the Detailing 101 section of NAM and take a lunch, there is lots to see and read. Pay particular to attention to what Octaneguy has to say. He doesn't post much anymore but has been a great help to the forum.

Glad to see that Rat Fink has gotten himself a MINI.

 

You can also search autogeek. The have a great how to section.

 

You're going to finds a great array of opinions regarding convertible top clearers and protector in the NAM threads, TG. I've always had good results using the product recommended by Haartz, the manufacture of BMW/MINI top. They recommend RaggTopp Convertible Top Cleaner and Protectant.

The best feature of their product is how easily the overspray is removed with a quick detail spray and microfiber towel. Take a look at this instructional video:

 

Thanks a lot guys.

I know I can find a lot of info online. I'm pretty good at it actually... but I found that hands on experience in the details from forum enthusiast provides a lot more confidence in a technique over another.

I was hoping you guys could give some hands on advice on what you have successfully done, possible mistakes as well

This is a good start though and all the info is much appreciated. I'll dig a little more in the past NAM posts.
thx for the few tips.

And Frig. YES the car is AWESOME

 

I use a natural sea sponge and Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo. Wash it real good and let it dry. Then RaggTopp fabric protectant. Using the aerosol can type. Also have a horsehair brush if it needs a good brushing for stubborn dirt, but really haven't needed it. One year of ownership and 16,000 miles, its the same or better then new and beads like crazy in the rain. I hope this helps.

Jack

 

Thanks Jack. Good stuff. I'll have to find those horse hair brush somewere.
I washed the car tonight for the first time and washing was relatively quick compare to my other car. But drying gave me a harder time. More crevices and bigger gaps that collects water.

Anyway, I didn't have product yet for the top so I washed it with some car PH balanced shampoo and I'll have to apply "protectant" when I get some.

I hope those spray cans don't leave marks on paint and trim pieces...

 

I don't want to get to crazy but I always wash my wheels first. Then the top on down. Dry the top first then the other parts of the car. I use a Spotless water system that filters the water and makes drying a breeze. I just use a large microfiber towel. Then after some time I spray the RaggTopp and you can use a piece of cardboard or something to stop from spraying on the paint. I then clean the windows ( cleaning any overspray from the RaggTopp). The I can deal with the paint. I do this at least once a week.

 

Man, once a week . . . I don't think I can keep up with that. I have an other spotless car of which I take care. That would be the ruin of me

Interesting you clean the wheels first. I usually do them last. I always go top down but either way works fine anyway...

Now I'm interested about that spotless water filter you use. What is it?


You have to understand I've always wash my car by hand, meaning a bucket of water with soap in it and a clean clean rag. Actually two buckets, one to rinse the rag before going back into the soapy one. Some people just spray soap one the car but that's not enough for me

 

The Spotless water system is two large filters that take all the minerals out of the water so your cleaning your car with pure H2O. It helps to reduce water spots. But it's not cheap. It makes the cleaning process so much faster. I can clean my car in under one hour. It's also black, so if I get stuck in a rain storm my car looks bad and needs a wash. So I wash weekly unless I get stuck in a rain storm early in the week and the weather is good for the rest of the week, then I'll wash midweek. So don't buy a black mini unless your a nut or don't care what it looks like.

 

Ha ha, I have a black Volvo so I know exactly what you are talking about . . . I spent way too much time cleaning that car

 

My strategy:

Wash/Dry: I avoid washing the top with any soaps that might remove the protective treatment that exists from the dealer or your last treatment. I usually just spray it down, not with the jet setting, but the fan setting to kind of blow dust and dirt away. Nothing is ever really stuck on there if you've got the treatment on right. To dry it, i use a lint-free microfiber towel. I hold the two corners on one edge and just drag it once to sweep and absorb any water. The rest is air dry. When it is dry, I use one of those sticky pet hair lint rollers to get any fibers or fuzzies off. Looks brand new.

Protect: I did a somewhat light coating when i first got it after about 4 months of ownership (April 2013) just because that is when I bought the spray and the top wasn't quite beading water anymore. I just did it again two weeks ago, very wet heavy application like the instructions say (basically spraying the top until the entire thing was damp/wet with the stuff. It needs to dry for like 24 hours, so don't get it wet in the rain, put the top down, or really drive it at all.

 

Thanks for the extra info!

I ended up ordering RaggTopp product (not the gas pressure can, rather the spray bottle). I'll try it and we'll see... I won't hesitate trying 303 as needed as well.

I like the pet air lint roller idea. Lint pieces drive me crazy sometime

I used some soft car shampoo so it should not have hurt the protective coating but I see what you are saying. Once I get everything it should be easier

thanks!

 

Yeah don't neglect your top, obviously if its dirty with something other than dust (bird poop needs to be removed immediately IMO) than certainly give it a light wash. I've heard that a horsehair brush like what you'd used on shoes is the most gentle on fabric tops. I have the microfiber wash mitt that has the little fingers all over it and i just lightly swirl that around if needed. I try not to scrub it so that i don't encourage the 303's early departure.

I forgot to mention that it rained yesterday for the first time since the heavy coat i did, a good northwest rain, and apart from a few micro-sized beads of water, the rain could barely find a foothold on the top. After being parked for about 30 minutes in the rain it had a couple tiny 2-3 in pools of water from the slope of the lot, but the top itself was completely dry - no water had soaked in anywhere. Was pretty impressive! It looked a lot like the NeverWet videos (Can't wait for that stuff to have a clear version).

 

sweet...

I ordered a horse-hair brush as well

 

If you want the ultimate in being gentle on your top, try this...

Montana Original Boar’s Hair Round Wash Brush

$$

 

no kidding . . . I'll pass, thank you

 

Here's what I use TG. It won't break the bank and it works great.

http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-420-a...ing-brush.aspx

 

Just checking in on things in regards to soft top care after over 10 month of ownership...

Again, if you recalled the beginning of this thread, this is the first time my wife and I own a convertible so there was (is) still a lot to learn.

Here is a few things I've been running into I'm not sure how to address yet. So I won't mind suggestions . . .

The Roadster is driven almost literally every day and it has not always been easy to find the right time to clean the top. Part of it is that after washing I need to wait for the top to be fully dry before applying the soft top protectant. And then I have to wait again for that to be dry before I can use the top again. Needles to say that drying time has been a challenge... All I feel I can do sometime is either not bother with the protectant or start washing the car mid to late afternoon and stay up really late to apply the protectant.

Secondly I got "Ragg-Topp" in a spray bottle (not in a spray can) I'm not always certain how to apply it and how much of it. The spray bottle doesn't always spray the product in a fine mist. I've sometime use a towel instead to spread the product that dropped in larger drops but I'm alway concern of rubbing the material too much.

Also I feel I have to wipe the product from windows and body panel immediately before it dries. For one I found it difficult to wipe off well. And two I found it cumbersome if I want to apply more coats.

Overall I don't fine the water beads very well and I don't feel confident I'm doing this the proper way...

 

I seal the top twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall. I wash the top first, then the rest of the Roadster. By the time that I've finished washing the body of the Roadster and drying it off, the top is nearly dry. Yes, the top needs to be dry for the sealant to work properly. You can set the Roadster in the sun to help speed up the process or use a source of heated air to assist in the drying process. I use a great little accessory called the Metrovac Blaster Sidekick Dryer. The product is designed to blow water out of crevices and hard to reach spots on your vehicle after washing but also works great in assisting in the drying of fabric convertible tops. The Metrovac Blaster is filtered and heated and it probably the best money I've spent thus far on the Roadster.

http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-471-a...-metrovac.aspx

Regarding the Ragg-Topp sealant, I've always purchased it in the aerosol format and have had great results. I make sure that it is applied a distance of about 18"-24" above the surface. I find that the use of a ladder makes this much easier. I apply it with light sweeping motions left to right, then top to bottom. I let this first coat dry for about 30 minutes and then apply a second coat. After application, I do not use the top for at least 24-48 hours to allow the product drying and well as curing time. The only issue I've ever had with the Ragg-Topp product is having to wipe down the back window of some minor residue that gets on the glass from the fabric folding onto it when the top is down. I find this happens two or three times after sealing and then stops.

Hope this helps, TG.

 

Good info everybody. I appreciate all the help and information everyone is contributing.