I am looking to splice into the front speaker signal BEFORE the amp, I have access to the wires at the amp but cannot find any diagram to show me what wries and color codes to tap into so I can grab a signal before it gets amplified.

I tried to search but had very little luck. I just want to add a sub to my HiFi R56 mini. I have the sub powered already but need to grab a signal before the amp. I do NOT want to tap in using an LOC after the signal is amplified

any color coded wiring diagrams? or can someone just tell me what wire colors are the front left and right positive and negative signals?

Thanks

 

wellllllllllllll since every single diagram in old posts here no longer works because the image host is gone or the website no longer exists...

here is what I dug up for those of you with the HiFi or H/K in your R56

Wire color codes at the amp, before and after.

Power Input
(Pin - Wire Color - Function)

5 - Red/Gray (This is a 20A circuit that should provide power to a modest aftermarket amp without needing to run a seperate lead)

10 - Power Antenna lead (to turn on your aftermarket amp. I'll check the voltage/operation when I can).

26 - Brown (Ground)

18 - Orange/Green (No idea, but it causes me concern as it's labeled "K_CAN_L")

19 - Green (No idea, but also causes me concern as it's labeled "K_CAN_H")

Audio Input (Speaker level input from headunit)
(Pin - WireColor - Polarity)

Front Left
38 - Black/Red (+)
30 - Black/Purple (-)

Front Right
9 - Yellow/Brown (+)
17 - Yellow/Black (-)

Rear Left
37 - Blue/Brown (+)
29 - Blue/Black (-)

Rear Right
8 - Brown/Orange (+)
16 - Yellow/Red (-)


Output (Speakers)

Front Left Woofer (6 1/2")
41 - Black/Red (+)
42 - Black/Purple (-)

Front Right Woofer (6 1/2")
39 - Yellow/Purple (+)
40 - Yellow/Gray (-)

Front Left Mid/Tweet*
33 - Blue/White (+)
34 - Blue/Brown (-)
*Need help here. The schematic is confusing, but I believe this lead goes to the 3 1/2" mid, with the tweeter slaved off this lead with a capacitor. DyeLooper noted the colors to his (HIFI) mid, and MotorMouth noted the tweeter has a cap. The colors for the tweeter wires should be Brown/Orange (+) and Blue/Red (-)

Front Right Mid/Tweet*
11 - Blue/Black (+)
12 - Blue/Brown (-)
*Need help here as well, as noted above. Colors for the tweet should be Brown/Orange (+) and Yellow/Black (-).

Rear Left Woofer (6x9)
4 - Red/White (+)
3 - Brown (-)

Rear Right Woofer (6x9)
23 - Red/White (+)
22 - Brown/White (-)

Rear Left Tweeter*
31 - Yellow/Black (+)
32 - Yellow/Brown (-)
*There are a couple of manufacturers of component 6x9's, but 5x7 or 6x8 components are more common. These leads aren't necessary if you use a coax or triax 6x9.

Rear Right Tweeter*
13 - Yellow (+)
21 - Brown (-)
*Same note as Rear Left Tweeter.

 

Great job. Thanks

 

Here's another portion to that lovely write up..

 

On my 2014 R59:

Following the pinout above for the wires from the amp to the speakers was all correct.

Small black wire in the stock harness I used as remote.

The 4 input channels into the HK amp were very different from what's posted above. I will post them when I get home. They are easy to identify as inputs because they're the same gauge as the Black Remote wire and the Orange/Green twisted pair used for the CAN signaling. The output speaker wires are bigger.

FL
Purple/Grey and Purple/Brown
FR
Blue/White and Blue/Yellow
RL
Blue/Brown and Blue/Black
RR
Purple/Yellow and Purple/Brown

Can confirm stock power harness is enough to drive a JBL DSP 4086 without running new power or ground wires while using all 8 channels. So much for the claimed 1000w peak output lol. More like 400, tops, which actually works out well since it lies within the 20a capacity Mini used for the HK amp.

 

Good info on the power input wiring........