R50/53 How to determine month of build
How to determine month of build
I am about to purchase a clutch kit from Pelican, but it appears there are kits up to april of 06 and then after april of 06. How do I determine which lit I need? I have a 2006 Mini Cooper S and the last digits of the vin are TL17056.
Thanks
Thanks
I looked for a sticker like this on my car and there are no stickers at all in the door jambs or the door. There are only a couple of stickers under the hood. One is identifying the color and the other has to do with emissions. Is the VIN # supposed to be on the drivers side where you can see it thru the corner of the windshield from the outside? There is a little window there but it is blacked out??
go to realoem.com and put your vin in it will tell you there. you are a 10/2005 and you will find diagrams and part numbers here
http://realoem.com/bmw/select.do?vin=TL17056
http://realoem.com/bmw/select.do?vin=TL17056
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+1 TL17056 - Last 7 digits are determine a 10/2005 build.

Clutch Kit
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/21207551384/ES40942
Recommend to replace the guide tube as they can show some wear. I have seen ones in the past with some wear on the tube grooved pretty bad. The release bearing should slide smoothly on this when it pivots on the clutch release fork.

Guide Tube #1 in diagram
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/23117551719/

Also check for leaks from the shaft seal, since you are in there and have things apart these can sometimes leak. It sets behind the guide tube towards the transmission.
Shaft Seal # 2 in above diagram
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/23117518633/

And the flywheel for the stock clutch.
The Flywheel "Twin Mass" also referred to "dual mass".
Twin Mass Flywheel Part number 21207532057 There is Genuine MINI and the Luk brand.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/21207532057/
Thanks and hope that helps.

Clutch Kit
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/21207551384/ES40942
Recommend to replace the guide tube as they can show some wear. I have seen ones in the past with some wear on the tube grooved pretty bad. The release bearing should slide smoothly on this when it pivots on the clutch release fork.

Guide Tube #1 in diagram
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/23117551719/

Also check for leaks from the shaft seal, since you are in there and have things apart these can sometimes leak. It sets behind the guide tube towards the transmission.
Shaft Seal # 2 in above diagram
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/23117518633/

And the flywheel for the stock clutch.
The Flywheel "Twin Mass" also referred to "dual mass".
Twin Mass Flywheel Part number 21207532057 There is Genuine MINI and the Luk brand.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/21207532057/
Thanks and hope that helps.
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Last edited by ECSTuning; Jul 8, 2013 at 10:37 AM.
Thanks for all the info. Yes I did find out by calling Mini that my build is Oct 05. I have purchased the new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and slide tube but forgot about the front trans seal. How difficult is it to get out? Any suggestions?
Also what does "Dual Mass" flywheel mean? I didn't know anything could be dual mass like that?
Also what does "Dual Mass" flywheel mean? I didn't know anything could be dual mass like that?
Dual mass...means it has a weight that can move...couple different designs...one is springs...they cannot be resurfaced....many folks switch to a std flywheel to save $$....but increases idle vibration a bit.
More or less....
But net result is it tripples the cost of a clutch job....price it out....it cannot be machined. If user did not slip the clutch and leave the face in bad shape you MIGHT be able scotchbrite the surface and use it....but the clutch itself can have the weights get stuck as they age....gives the car a sound of a "Chewbacca" roar when idling....when stuck...most likely on cold AM's it seems.
But net result is it tripples the cost of a clutch job....price it out....it cannot be machined. If user did not slip the clutch and leave the face in bad shape you MIGHT be able scotchbrite the surface and use it....but the clutch itself can have the weights get stuck as they age....gives the car a sound of a "Chewbacca" roar when idling....when stuck...most likely on cold AM's it seems.
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