R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Anti seize plug threads

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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 12:41 PM
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Anti seize plug threads

Okay,.. It's cold cold, hasn't been driven since last night

I have the Ngk laser platinum bkr6equp. I have a torque wrench.

I hope the old plugs come out, and the threads stay in the head.

Should I put a small dab of anti seize on the threads of the new plugs? I've heard both yes and no.

Please comment.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 01:33 PM
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Old ones came out without a problem, nice color too, light tan. They have the BMW name next to NGK, so they must be origional. -Glad I'm changing them now at 79,xxx miles.

So the Haynes manual says "you may want to apply a small amount of anti seize to the threads". But I hear it's a crap book.

I've never done that before, and all of my previous cars had aluminum heads.

My concern is I hear MINI plugs like to back them selves out. I'll recheck the torque next week, but wouldn't anti seize make it easier for them to work themselves loose.

Sorry, I know this is a simple/stupid little thing, but I just can't decide and hope for your guidance. -I'm gonna eat lunch.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 01:36 PM
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It's never a bad idea with aluminium heads! Just a small dab and don't get any on the electrode of course. I don't think you should have problem removing the old ones, from my experience, Minis aren't known to be a pita when it comes to plugs (unlike some Fords :p).

Edit: If they are properly torqued and you re-check them once after a couple warm-ups, you shouldn't have problems. When I've changed mines, I've simply ''hand torqued'' them like I always do on other cars and the one in cylinder 1 decided to come lose and rip some of the threads when it spitted it. Had to install a TimeSert, which is a bit scary as it takes quite a lot of aluminium, but everything is fine since then.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 01:45 PM
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Makes sense to me, just a dab couldn't hurt. I have a small art paint brush... So just a little.

I'll check the torque after a couple warm ups rather than wait till next week.

Thanks man!
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 02:05 PM
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google: anti seize on spark plugs

and you'll get plenty of opinions

AND a tech bulletin from at least one plug manufacturer . . .

I've always used it - very little tho - never had a problem
 

Last edited by Capt_bj; Jul 6, 2013 at 02:15 PM.
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 02:47 PM
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I think I've got to stop reading horror stories on the Internet of people who have problems working on their cars.


Changing plugs was too easy! Thanks for the input guys, I used just a little, and feel good about it.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 03:35 PM
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Dont forget to torque to 22ftlbs
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Braminator
Dont forget to torque to 22ftlbs
Ya, exactly. I did 22ftlbs. Haynes said 20, read about some guys on NAM doing 25 to make sure they didn't back out. I chose 22ftlbs, seemed safe.

Wow, drives A LOT better. Smoother at every RPM, rev-match down shifts easier, and some of the hesitation between 800 and 1100 rpm seems to be gone. I usually get the clutch out and get rolling without touching the throttle -car doesn't shake and vibrate at the moment of engagement anymore, just rolls forward.

WOW -I've never been so excited about a simple spark plug change. OH, and OBC shows a 2mpg increase already. -I always double check the math at the pump, so we'll see.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 05:01 PM
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Make sure after about 100 miles and some heat cycles you double check the torque on them.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Braminator
Make sure after about 100 miles and some heat cycles you double check the torque on them.
Will do. Tuesday morning will be perfect, as I don't go in to work till afternoon.

I'm assuming the engine needs to be cold when I do this?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 05:37 PM
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Always due it cold.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by AlexQS

Will do. Tuesday morning will be perfect, as I don't go in to work till afternoon.

I'm assuming the engine needs to be cold when I do this?
Because if hot you'll risk tearing the threads out of the head.

Anti-Seize can change torque values, so I only use it with cast iron heads... Frankly it's only needed with iron mostly... While aluminum corrodes, it's much softer so things get stuck less.

NGK had a TSB out about the shiny silver coating on the threads basically acting as an anti corrosion barrier... Good enough for me... No shop manual I've seen (factory here..) ever spoke about using AS on plug threads with aluminum heads.

If you worried about corrosion with aluminum, use the green Loc-Tite product. Great stuff, what it's made for...
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 06:22 PM
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I never use that stuff when I use new NGK spark plugs. The new NGK plugs have a coding on them already from factory with their own anti seize on them, so no need to install more. But if you reuse them then maybe apply if your worried about the plugs getting stuck or plan to replace them every 4 years.....poor mini. :( Always torque and you will be fine. More issues backing out if not torqued to 22lbs. And
 
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 10:30 AM
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My Bentley MINI manual says, "Lightly lubricate new spark plug threads with copper-based antiseize compound." I have followed that advice and never had a problem...
 
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by BRGPA
My Bentley MINI manual says, "Lightly lubricate new spark plug threads with copper-based antiseize compound." I have followed that advice and never had a problem...
That's good to know. Soon I'll ponyup and get the Bentley manual.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 01:07 PM
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The Bentley manuals are great for the DIY jobs and the most comprehensive manual out there for MINI.

Bentley Manual R50 R52 R53 Models.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES2073657/




We also carry the Gen 2 Manual.

Thanks
 
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