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Astro Black R56 Paint

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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 01:38 AM
  #1  
R53's Avatar
R53
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Astro Black R56 Paint

Anyone else here have issues with AB paint??

Whenever I polish it, it inflicts light scratches which is very scary I have stopped all together. (hand polish)

Im using brand new cloths/pads and the correct methods

How can I prevent this from happening and how can I remove the slight marks without creating more?
 
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 08:34 AM
  #2  
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I'm in the same boat. Astro Black 2010 MCS. I purchased turtle wax black car kit (name?), which worked really well (cleaner, wax, detailed spray). But I still have small scratches that I want to still minimize. I know "remove" is not possible. I have been thinking about getting a DA buffer, either Porter Cable or Griots.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 08:55 AM
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I have a random orbital from griots and I have been using mothers polish starting with a medium compound going to their finest compound and finishing off with griots best of show wax and it comes out perfect every time.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 09:29 AM
  #4  
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There's no reason uncontaminated polish and microfiber cloths should be inflicting scratched in your paint, regardless of the color.

Throw that microfiber towed in the wash basket and start with another one. Make sure it is free of any kind of foreign matter, even the tiniest speck of something on it can cause scratches.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 07:50 PM
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i just order the porter cable DA polisher and some product. Meguires M105 compound, M205 fine polish, and Collinite 845 wax. I will take a shot at it this weekend. Although I'm not sure if the M105 is appropriate. I don't have deep scratches so I may start with M205. There are so many product available once you step into the higher priced Pro stuff, its mind dizzying. Let you know how it turns out.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by pbedrosi
i just order the porter cable DA polisher and some product. Meguires M105 compound, M205 fine polish, and Collinite 845 wax. I will take a shot at it this weekend. Although I'm not sure if the M105 is appropriate. I don't have deep scratches so I may start with M205. There are so many product available once you step into the higher priced Pro stuff, its mind dizzying. Let you know how it turns out.
It's always good start with lighter compounds and less aggressive pads anyways. If M205 doesn't remove the deeper swirls, that's when you'll want to go with M105. Good luck.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 08:47 AM
  #7  
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Sound advice.

I just can't judge how good or bad the condition of my paint is. Detainers have a different scale than us enthusiasts. But people do comment how nice my paint is, and optical clarity and reflection are pretty good, so I'm thinking M105 may be too much. Also seems like pros use M105 to bring back badly neglected paint from dead.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 09:54 AM
  #8  
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Your roof may require M105. I had some really deep swirls up there. But M105 was really needed on my MINI since ownership I never really did a paint correction. I washed regularly but swirls galore all these years. I doubt I'll need to touch my bottle of M105 anytime soon so I may get Sonax Perfect Finish 4/6 soon which is expensive but I hear nothing but good things about it that I do want to try it myself.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 09:35 PM
  #9  
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I just picked up HarborFreight DA with their foam pads. Just finished wet sanding with DA on 3m 3000 grit on my clearcoat, cut then polished. It worked out great.

DA is a DA. It is just that HF version is only 1/4 of the price.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 10:34 PM
  #10  
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Why you would need to wet sand your own paint is beyond reason unless your paint was in that bad of shape. Also, a DA is not just a DA, but I'd rather not get into a debate on that, it's your car, not mine...
 
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 08:53 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by ra2fanatic
Why you would need to wet sand your own paint is beyond reason unless your paint was in that bad of shape. Also, a DA is not just a DA, but I'd rather not get into a debate on that, it's your car, not mine...
Small scratches can be quickly sanded down instead of using excess buffing compound. If you don't know it, sanding can cut time and save materials. Ask any bodyshop or anyone who does body work.

Not all wet sanding is aggressive, notice I said 3000 grit. You don't seem to understand or read my comment.

I had some orange peels on my clear when I restored a salvage last year. Hence did some wet sanding to get rid of them.

DA is a DA. Don't need to get into debate on it because there isn't a reason to have a debate. Does clear coat know if the sanding/polishing job was done by $400 DA or $50 DA when the motion and the sand paper/sponge used to create the cut/polish is the same? WTF. If you can't deduct a conclusion from that then you are severely challenged with your reasoning skills.

You can polish with DA as well if you didn't know.

Yes I have used both porter cable as well as the HF DAs. I don't think you have if you think you have to have a debate on it.

Regardless, Debate all you want. Be a bit nicer if you want to be civil. No reason to put someone else down to state your case. You started it though.

Yes it is my car. Not yours. I agree with you.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 09:28 PM
  #12  
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Finally finished my first detail using the porter cable DA polisher.

Here is the link to the full write up.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...tml#post934639

I used Meguiars clay, Ultra Compund, M205 Polish, and Collinite 845 sealer/wax. Overall the car looks great and I hear Collinite should last. We'll see.

Here are some of the pics I posted.

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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 05:30 PM
  #13  
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LOL. Nice job. That DA works well doesn't it? I love it.
 
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