1st Gen Countryman (R60) Talk (2010-2015) R60 Countryman Discussions

R60 A/C issues?

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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 08:29 PM
  #1  
busyguy8's Avatar
busyguy8
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A/C issues?

Any R60 owners have problems with their A/C? Mine is really not very cool anymore.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 07:16 AM
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R60All4
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From: Florida
Yes!! I did!! And everyone thought I was crazy...

Check the thread I started in the R60 finding/fixing problems "Not so cool AC" and see my dilemma.
I've since sold my mini but my neighbor bought one and hasn't put 2500 miles on it and the AC feels like it should be from an economy car from the '80s.

Mine would get loud like rushing water and then an arctic burst of COLD then run air that was hot s the outside on me. Got a new AC and it still didn't help.
Good luck with yours. I spent over a month without my mini trying to fix it. But the dealers thought I was crazy til I took it to a dealer up north where my AC was replaced, but on the way home, it started all over again.

Worst AC ever... my Wife didn't mind as she thinks 75 degrees is frigid... But not too much more embarrassing than dining clients and the AC not working. Clients need to be impressed.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 09:42 AM
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bikemojo
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From: Austin moving to Dallas
I only have about 1200 miles on mine and my a/c (have the auto climate control version) seems to be working fine (fingers crossed).
I know this does not really help your particular problem but I got my FRONT windshield tinted (some special tint that knocks out 80 or 88% of the heat) along with other windows. You can barely see that the windshield is tinted.
I live in Texas and let me tell you, it was the best $200 I have ever spent. I tested it against my wife's volvo one afternoon. It was about 20 degrees different between the two cars.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 02:28 PM
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bmwr606
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From: wisconsin, usa
Originally Posted by busyguy8
Any R60 owners have problems with their A/C? Mine is really not very cool anymore.
try keeping the rpms at or above 3,000 rpm when using the a/c ... with an automatic, that means you will have to use manual mode

on a 108F + 65% humidity day, i see 42F air coming out of the vents with recirc off, even colder with recirc on

scott
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bmwr606
try keeping the rpms at or above 3,000 rpm when using the a/c ... with an automatic, that means you will have to use manual mode

on a 108F + 65% humidity day, i see 42F air coming out of the vents with recirc off, even colder with recirc on

scott
That's the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard. Any modern car that needs the engine over 3000 rpm for the A/C to work properly is very poorly engineered.

The a/c doesn't work as well as it used to, and was never good to be honest, but has clearly gotten worse.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 04:29 PM
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From: LI NY
Originally Posted by bmwr606
try keeping the rpms at or above 3,000 rpm when using the a/c ... with an automatic, that means you will have to use manual mod

scott

if i am sitting in bumper to bumper traffic i cant.

I had a issue with the 0'11 and same problem with 0'12
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 04:46 PM
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danjreed
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From: Philly PA
Originally Posted by busyguy8


The a/c doesn't work as well as it used to, and was never good to be honest, but has clearly gotten worse.
Then get the pressures checked...

If you get a 20-30 degree change - it's working as designed... Yes this means in 110 degree weather with humidity you may only get 80...
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 05:09 PM
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bmwr606
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From: wisconsin, usa
Originally Posted by busyguy8
That's the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard. Any modern car that needs the engine over 3000 rpm for the A/C to work properly is very poorly engineered.

The a/c doesn't work as well as it used to, and was never good to be honest, but has clearly gotten worse.
but it works....
i have a manual ... my dad bought an auto ... my a/c works great ... his not so much, until he started using manual mode and keeping the rpms up

dad's auto in manual mode, keeping the rpms at least 3,000, has 42F air cominjg out of the vents, just like my cms all4 ... if he lets the car shift itself, the rpms are under 2,000 and the a/c just does not work well

scott

R134a is not as good as the old R1x refigerants were ... spinning the compressor faster helps a bunch
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 05:10 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by bmwr606
try keeping the rpms at or above 3,000 rpm when using the a/c ... with an automatic, that means you will have to use manual mode

on a 108F + 65% humidity day, i see 42F air coming out of the vents with recirc off, even colder with recirc on

scott
Originally Posted by danjreed
Then get the pressures checked...

If you get a 20-30 degree change - it's working as designed... Yes this means in 110 degree weather with humidity you may only get 80...
Been around plenty of cars and a/c systems.. even the one in my '56 Chevy. In 75* day this one is not cool enough when I have to roll up the windows for a phone call.. I'll have to take it in and get the run around, I'm sure. DAMN!
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 05:22 PM
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danjreed
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From: Philly PA
Just so you know... A standard performance test is:

Stabilize the interior to 80 deg.

Run car with A/C full, full fan, 2000 rpm, Recerc DOOR CLOSED.

Windows up.

Center duct temp should be between 35~45 deg F.

Pressures should be stable. Low side at 20~30 psi. High side at 250~400 PSI.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 05:50 PM
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Couldn't we just buy a a/c conditioner bottle to run it through the system? I don't know much about how to make it colder but I'm curious cause the bottle is like $30 at auto zone.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 07:02 PM
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From: Philly PA
Originally Posted by RobMuntean
Couldn't we just buy a a/c conditioner bottle to run it through the system? I don't know much about how to make it colder but I'm curious cause the bottle is like $30 at auto zone.
You really need to be careful with that stuff.. as a professional I've seen that stuff do more harm than good.

R134a systems are *exceptionally intolerant* to overcharging. I'm talking an extra ounce and the system blows hot air... R134a is not like the older "Fill at will" R12 systems.

The other issue is the added "products" those cans have, the "system sealers" and "boosters" just pretty much turn to gum inside the small pressure differential valve called a thermal expansion valve... We've literally cut them apart and found them to be blocked with gum from the "Sealers"..

Just beware that R134a is not a "more is better" type refrigerant if you go that route.. and make sure to get a bottle that is JUST r134a and NOTHING else..
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 08:17 PM
  #13  
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RobMuntean
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From: West Bloomfield, Michigan
Originally Posted by danjreed

You really need to be careful with that stuff.. as a professional I've seen that stuff do more harm than good.

R134a systems are *exceptionally intolerant* to overcharging. I'm talking an extra ounce and the system blows hot air... R134a is not like the older "Fill at will" R12 systems.

The other issue is the added "products" those cans have, the "system sealers" and "boosters" just pretty much turn to gum inside the small pressure differential valve called a thermal expansion valve... We've literally cut them apart and found them to be blocked with gum from the "Sealers"..

Just beware that R134a is not a "more is better" type refrigerant if you go that route.. and make sure to get a bottle that is JUST r134a and NOTHING else..
Thanks, I didn't know much about the A/C system! I'm gonna leave it alone because I haven't experienced any symptoms yet like others but I would like it to make the cabin colder sometimes.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 06:26 AM
  #14  
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I recently received my 13 CM S and live in TX. I don't have my windows tinted (yet!) and have had no issues with my AC so far and we've had plenty of 95 degree days. I have the auto climate control and sometimes kick it up a bit warmer (to 76 or 78) because I get a tad cold. This is without recirculate being on. I think with tinting mine will be just fine when we start hitting 100+ in the next couple of weeks.
 
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