So I recently learned that I needed to replace my lower control arm bushings, so far I have done the driver's side. I figure it'll be simple, get under it, pull all the crap out get the new one and I hit the same problem everyone does. That one effing bolt. So I read up on it, theres the lower the sub-frame methods, the remove the sub frame method, but those both suck. So I created my own method.

please keep in mind I have a 2004 with 200k miles on it, the passenger seat is broken, the 3rd cyclinder has SUPER low compression, the front bumper has been wrecked...twice. And the Hood is dented. This is not a method for those who want it back to prestine, this is a method for those who are tired of dealing with it and just say "yea, that'll work for me." Enjoy

Also, keep in mind Im starting from everything else is ready, all thats left is that last bolt that is a pain in the a** to get to.

Step One: Get under the dash and remove the gas petal assembly. (little tab on brake petal side then it slides right off)

Step Two: Remove Carpeting (not sure how to do this, as I cut through mine..mine's dying, who cares)

Step 3: Get under the car and drill a hole directly above the bolt needing to be removed, this is your marker (Oh yea...this is that kind of instruction sheet)

Step 4: Use a dremel (or a jigsaw, or really whatever you want, its thin metal) to cut a hole around that little hole you just drilled. Make sure its big enough to access the bolt with a socket.
(See Picture 1)

Step 5: Unscrew the bolt
(See Picture 2)

Step 6: Do it all in reverse with new bushing and mount and cover the hold with some metal and glue, or fiberglass. (Or if you're like me throw your floor matt back over it and move on)
(See Picture 3)

This worked great for me....but then again, I just needed it to be functional, and to be honest, who the hell is going to look under my dash, under my floor matt and be like "WHOA WTF is that hole??"

 

Interesting! I bet if you did a neater job with the hole you could find a rubber plug to fit when you're done, and no one would question it.

 

So, how long did the job take including those holes? MINI sure succeeded in making everything difficult.

 

Definitely an interesting approach.
Thankfully, I had a good excuse to remove the subframe (installing an adjustable sway bar) when I replaced the bushings. Certainly wasn't easy.

 

That's a good idea as long as you don't mind cutting holes in your MINI.

If I remember right, when ever I did my LCA bushings....it only took around an hour to drop the subframe......

 

you could always buy this tool
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-Cooper-R50-52-53-56-Front-Axle-Control-Arm-Bushing-/260877332314?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3cbd802f5a&vxp=mtr

 

"I have a 2004 with 200k miles on it, the passenger seat is broken, the 3rd cyclinder has SUPER low compression, the front bumper has been wrecked...twice. And the Hood is dented."

Now that is true love.

 

Just note that covering the hole with fiberglass, body repair, or gluing in some sheet metal might bite you later.
Some places won't let you pass inspection with a hole in the floorboard unless you've done a complete repair of
the hole (like welding in a piece of sheet metal to cover it).

 

Sorry for the late Reply, from the top

JAB 67: The problem is the bolt comes out at a bit of an angle and because its SUCH a large bolt the hole ends up being more oval than round, then with the size of the socket added in, finding a plug that shape and size would be difficult.

Minsanity: Once I tried the other ways of doing it and realized they sucked and then mapped out this plan, the process was maybe an hour max. It may take a bit longer to do a cleaner job, but for my purposes, it was less than an hour.

mrbean: It just became a logical answer, I think if an engineering person did it, or a shop with the right tools, it'd be a lot cleaner and not even noticable at the end. I'm an accountant and was using a dremel tool in my front yard.

LJcoop02: Autozone actually rents out that tool, but when I got the part from car quest it came as a full piece, the only place i could find the bushing in stock was Mini, and it cost like $50 more than the full piece.

Mib4840: Hell yea it is!! And that's the short list of the sh*t wrong with my mini. She's a P.O.S. but I love my baby . My plan is drive till she dies, and then instead of calling a tow truck just call a Taxi to take me to the mini dealership and start over. I got the car in college and its a miracle it's lasted me this long

Cristo: Good information for others looking to replicate my work and professional shops, but as far as my concerns, my dashboard looks like Christmas, check engine light, brake light, traction light, I forget what the others are, inspection wasn't an option. You'd think this would be a concern, but I imagine the car will expire before the sticker does. Also if done properly with lifting up the carpet and then putting it back down, I doubt an inspection shop will see it.

In-case all of ya'll are wondering "Why the hell is this guy replacing his bushing if he knows his car is quickly dying??" My girlfriend was driving through the drive through, turned too early and put the front driver's side corner into a pole, bending the lower control arm, and popping out the CV joint. If I had done it, that would of been the end for this mini, but because she did and felt soo horrible about it, I said "Oh that's nothing, I'll fix it"

 

Actually, I was thinking they would see it looking up at the car while it's raised on a lift.
That's how I failed an inspection with my old '82 VW Rabbit with a bondo repair to the floorboard.