I want to buy the axis og Europa wheels they are 17x8 et25 I'm not sure it the offset will fit?

 

What suspension are you running? Any plans to lower it?

Assuming you have stock suspension, compared to 17x7" wheels with stock 205/45-17 tires-


The OG Europa wheel in 17x8" et 25mm will stick out 38mm or 1.5" which is too far for the stock fenders, adding wide fender arches is possible, or you can use a narrow tire and stretch fit the wide wheel for at look. A 205/45-17 would work.

There is room for clearance on the inside from the brakes and suspension.

If you have coilovers with ride height adjustable then you can consider many tire sizes, just lower the car to get clearance.

215/40-17 would fit the wheel and give you more clearance from rubbing the rear wheel arch.

235/40-17 is a good fit but tire selection is a little limited, Dunlop Direzza ZII is very good.

245/40-17 and 215/45-17 are also workable sizes but run a little taller than OEM but can work with stock suspension. This gives you many more tires to choose from.

What sort of goal do you have for wheels and tires?
Are you going for a certain look?
Did you have any tires you wanted to consider?
What about budget for tires? Suspension, etc?


Clubman with OG Europa wheels, tire is slightly more narrow, suspension is dropped

 

I was just going I get h an r lowering springs that's about it... If these don't work can I get 17x8 with et of 35 to fit?

 

As you can see with the example picture above you can get 17x8" et25 wheels to look OK but-

You may need to customize the suspension drop by upgrading to fully ride height adjustable Coilovers (expensive usually), adding front adjustable camber plates and rear adjustable lower control arms to gain more negative camber as needed to fine tune the position of the top of the tire and tilt it in a bit for clearance. And you may use a tire size that allows for more clearance and a tapered look once mounted so that it fits the wheel arch.

If you have only lowering springs you drop a certain amount and that's it. Also remember that tires with a lower sidewall will be stiff riding and jarring on anything but smooth roads.

With a drop in suspension you may want to avoid 215/45-17 or 245/40-17 since they are both 24.7" vs 24.3" for OEM.

Changing from an offset of 25mm to 35mm means you are moving the wheels less outward by 10mm. So it would stick out 28mm or about 1" further than stock. This is not bad and should be OK, just select the right tire.

 

If interested in the Europa contact this owner who sold his-

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...og-wheels.html

 

Alright just so I know I'm understand I can fit a 17x8 et35 without getting camber plates And all that I just want the lowering springs but I can get 17x8 et to fit if I stretched the tires or got camber plates and coilovers? I am also looking at the esm 001 wheel as well which one would be better for me if I just want to get lowering springs?

 

Assuming you don't want to risk rubbing.

The more adjustable the suspension the better.
Ride height
more negative camber front or rear

Tire size that is no taller than OEM 24.3" and not overly wide but does not need to be small and stretched. A perfect fit would work.

H&R lowering springs usually decrease ride height by-
1" in front
0.75" in the rear

Some examples of tire sizes on a 17x8" rim.



205/45-17 tire


215/40-17 tire

Some tires stretch better than others.


235/40-17 would look like this on a 17x8 wheel

 

Ahh so what would be the best size rim for me to get for just lowering springs without worrying about rubbing

 

Depends on what you are trying to do.

What is your priority?

Appearance
Handling
Ride comfort
Budget

Typically when you lower a MINI without changing the shocks you get a potentially rougher ride quality. Handling is improved and center of gravity is lowered. There is also the chance you can wear out your shocks faster once you drop the suspension. Are your shocks original? How many miles on them? If 70,000 miles or more then you might consider Koni FSD or Koni Yellow shocks at the same time you install the springs- it is the same labor cost. FSD is better for street use, Koni Yellow better for performance driving like autocrossing. Both will work with lowering springs.

Also there are many lowering springs to choose from, it would make sense to research pros and cons so you get what you want, not just the price. For info on this try Waymotorworks.com.

Depending on your priorities I like the following approach.

Rather than start with wheels I start with tires. I pick the tire that best suits my needs. Then I select the wheel size that will fit the tire size that is optimal for my MINI and my priorities. Given the wheel size I am shopping for I select the design I like with the lowest possible weight and hopefully within my budget.

So what do you use your MINI for?
Only street driving?
Any track or autocrossing?
Any driving school or driving events like the Dragon?

Or do you not really care about how it works, just how it looks?
Will it be looks over function?

 

No track just street I do like to play on curves and that type of thing I will do the konig shocks with the springs

 

You did not mention your budget.

OK, your priority is aggressive street use over looks.

As for suspension-

To get the most out of tires you need to upgrade the suspension.

The more common suspension upgrades are-
Lowering springs with stock shocks (if shocks are newish or low miles)
Lowering springs with upgraded shocks
Full adjustable coilovers
Adjustable 3 hole rear swaybar
Rear adjustable lower control arms to reduce negative camber in the rear once the suspension is lowered.
Aggressive 4 wheel alignment once the suspension has settled after installation - about a few weeks.

You will get benefit out of new tires with stock suspension but if you care about using the most out of those tires then suspension upgrades will make a difference in tire wear and performance.

You did not mention if your roads are smooth or full of potholes. Considering you have not yet complained of the potholes I will assume the roads are not perfect but driveable. If the roads were very bad then a tire size with a taller sidewall or softer sidewall construction would help ride comfort. The choice is basically 40 or 45 series sidewall.

You might want to call and talk to or email Way at Waymotorworks.com. He's done many MINI suspension upgrades and can tell you what has worked for his customers. There are many lowering springs out there, I had H-sport lowering springs with stock shocks as my first suspension upgrade and while handling was better, the ride was very jarring and bumpy. I upgraded to Bilstein PSS9 coilovers and that was better but still very firm riding.

Way sells the TSW linear springs which will work with OEM shocks or with aftermarket shocks. The least expensive shocks are Koni Yellow at $181 which are adjustable.

TSW springs-
http://www.waymotorworks.com/tsw-min...e-springs.html

Koni FSD if a self adjusting shock meant for stock springs- could be used with JCW springs for the drop over OEM MCS springs.

Rear lower control arms are needed because once you drop the rear suspension, rear negative camber tends to get excessive relative to the front camber. Stock setting is about -1.2 to -1.6 degrees, after a drop you'll be at -2.0 degrees or more. A pair of lower adjustable control arms allows you to set camber back into the stock setting range or can allow you to tilt the top edge of the tire so that it fits flush with the wheel arch.

Rear adjustable 19mm swaybar is optional and needed if you feel your car pushes or understeers too much in corners when you take them fast. Under normal driving you won't need the stiffer swaybar. If you have never noticed much understeer then skip this upgrade.

Budget for tires would be a deciding factor for some. Do you want your tires to last or is it OK to go for grippy soft rubber tires that would wear out in a year or about 12,000 miles.

Typically you get the most grip out of tires that are Extreme or Max Summer tires, they are rated about 140-200 and 240-300 treadwear respectively. You get better handling and performance but compromise on wear, price or ride comfort.

If you have to drive in any cold weather or any snow then Ultra High Performance All Season tires are best. Even if you have winter tires that you change to the All Season tires can be a wise choice since it's hard to tell when the weather will change.

If your budget is up to $200 per tire then-
Michelin Pilot Super Sport (Max Summer tire), 300 treadwear
205/45-17 , $181 each, with 17x7 or 17x7.5" wheel et 42-45mm
or on a budget
Bridgestone Potenza S-04 (Max Summer tire)
205/45-17 $109 each, 280 treadwear, better on handling
Continental ExtremeContact DW (Max Summer tire)
205/45-17 $101 each, 340 treadwear, very good on comfort
Kumho Ecsta LE Sport (Max Summer tire)
205/45-17 $83 each, 280 treadwear, not quite as good as the others but offers value.

As for wheel weight. The less the wheel and tire, the better your handling responsiveness, acceleration and braking. Assuming you have stock 16" or 17" wheels now, you can easily get wheels that weigh less. A good place to aim is about 18 lbs or less for a 17x7" wheel. Some will be closer to 14 lbs but will cost more because they are forged which is a method of wheel construction that is lighter and stronger than cast. Do you really need a forged wheel on the street? No, but lower wheel weight is a great plus.

In the case of a 17x8" wheel you typically get more weight since the barrel of the wheel is wider, there is simply more metal. Also a wider wheel means you may need a wider and heavier tire. You trade off larger rubber contact patch with reduced performance depending on how heavy the wheel and tire combo is. Unless you are drag racing, the wider wheel is mostly for looks. Not to mention it may cost more.