Hello, All.

I lurk a lot around the site, but I really haven't had a problem until now. Hopefully you all can help me out. Here is the current situation:

2003 Mini Cooper, R50
80,000 miles
CVT

Had an issue with the P0130 code, replaced the 02 sensors, pre-cat and post cat.
P0130 code came back.
Checked around intake vac lines, intake manifold and exhaust manifold. There are no leaks.
Changed Spark Plugs with NGK OE plugs
Changed Air Filter
Cleared P0130 with my Peake, code came back.
Changed the fuel filter yesterday, 5/8/2013. It is sealed completely no leaks and installed correctly.(I uninstalled and re-installed 2x to be sure)
Car will not start. It cranks, runs and then immediately dies.
Unhooked the fuel line at the rail. Fuel runs when key turns on, although a low volume compared to what I would think is a proper amount.
Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge at the rail.
Showing 10 psi at the rail with the key on, car cold. Pressure drops to zero once the key is turned off.

Can someone post the normal operating PSI at the rail with the key on, cold, car running, and key on, hot?

I am thinking that all this time my fuel pump was crapping out, but the dirty fuel filter may have kept the pressure up somehow. Now that there is a new filter, the pump has been exposed.

What do the experts say? Do you concur the that pump is failing?

Thanks for reading

 

Sounds like the pump to me. I am having the same issue. The Shop just tested mine and I had similar issues. I'm going to do it myself because the Shop wants $1100 out the door to replace it. Still looking for a local (Concord) place that has them though. There is a "how to" in the NAM forums if your gonna do it yourself.

 

Here. This is from Mini Mania: http://new.minimania.com/part/NME866...S-From-07-2004

Fuel Pump maintains fuel pressure of 3.5 bar (50psi). The fuel rail in the engine compartment contains a pressure damper / fuel pressure regulator to smooth out fluctuations in fuel presure during high load situation.s

Fuel pressure specification measured at the shrader valve on the end of the fuel rail is:
Cooper 3.0 + 0.2 bar (43 + 3psi)
Cooper S 3.5 + 0.2 bar (50 + 3psi)

 

Awesome! Thanks for the replies and for the specific information regarding the fuel pressures. I am going to replace the pump myself. They are pretty straight forward. Heck, I figure that if I changed the control arm bushings by myself, then this should be a walk in the park.

Thanks again.

 

I've done the Fuel Filter before. Make sure your on empty. The DIY thread is really good. When you put the metal ring back on to lock the filter in place make sure you push down REALLY hard. It's a pain but thats the only tough thing about it.

If your going to replace the pump then replace the filter, o rings, relay, etc. while your elbow deep in gas.

Do you have a pump, filter, relay, ect. already? I received a PM from a vendor here on NAM. He said that he can get me a pump and the rest of the trimmings. I'll let you know what his price is.

 

Yeah, the filter was a PITA. I just changed it last week. My relays are ok. As a check, I swapped the same relays around that were under the hood and by the kick panel. A few of them are the same, and they are interchangeable. The pump runs, albeit very weak at 10psi. I ordered the fuel pump from Pelican Parts. I had a 20.00 off coupon that they sent to me. The VDO pump is 188.00 shipped to my door.

Thanks!

 

Let us know how it goes with the install and if that is the issue in the end. Here's our Fuel Pump & Filter DIY article for your review as well.

 

Had same issue a while back. Opened up to remove & check pump after only seeing 20psi. Turned out to be a torn hose from pump to filter. Dunno why/how that happened to untouched pump/filer units since new. Never saw anything like that documented. Changed the hose to a fuel-submersible rubber 1. All's good since then. Pump still gives more than 50psi at the valve. That VDO pump is pretty reliable.

 

Okay, that does makes sense. I will check out the lines in the tank prior to actually replacing the pump. Thank you for posting that possible issue. I never thought to check the hoses in the tank.

 

Oh, you won't believe my journey in hunting down that problem. It's documented in the other forum this site won't allow mentioning. You probably won't find the same issue as mine was one for the X-Files. Should it interst you, googling "Morning Hard Starts & Now, 1-3k RPM Hesitation/Yoyo/Hiccup" will lead you there.
Car runs like how it was new after that hose was sorted.
Hope that helps. Good luck.

 

03,

How'd it go? Was it a smooth transition to the new pump? Have you gotten any SES codes?

Since my car was towed to the mechanic, he installed the pump, filter, seals, relay, etc. Now, I get a P0455 code and my "Check Filler Cap" light is on.

I called the Shop that did the work and the Mechanic said I might need a new Filler Cap. I'm calling BS on that answer.

Why is it that I need a new gas cap after a new fuel pump and filter was installed? He said that the seal might be old and need replacement.

Anyone have a suggestion as to was this could be?

I'm thinking that there is a reset procedure that needs to take place. Just like when you change the oil, there is a mileage reset procedure.

 

That is an emission's control type code. More than likely your gas cap was not on all the way. Make sure the cap is on properly, and then have the code cleared. If it comes back, then you have a leak in the evap system or a weak seal on the gas cap.

As for the pump replacement: I haven't started on it yet. The pump will be delivered tomorrow, but I am out of town. I will get to it sometime on Tuesday. First though, I am going to check the fuel lines inside the tank. If those check out okay, then I will move forward and replace the pump.

 

I inspected the gas cap.

I'm sure my neighbors thought I was some loon living next door while standing there staring at a gas cap.

The Shop said that they used a Siemens/VDO pump. I'm not sure if the Siemens/VDO seals are an exact match or not. I know that the Vaico pump says it's OEM but the seals dont fit like an OEM. Might be the same problem.

I've searched throughout NAM and have found that if the seals are off just a smidgin' then you'll get the code. I've cleared the code since then and need to drive it a bit to see if it comes back.

The Shop doesn't have a slot open for me until Wed. So I will continue to convince my neighbors I'm a mental headcase while I check and re-check the gas cap putting it on and taking it off multiple times while scratching my head.

 

Winner Winner Chicken Dinner.

So, I drained the tank by jumping the fuel pump to continuously run, and then I removed the fuel filter housing, hoses, and the fuel pump from the car. I inspected the fuel line on the pump for any cracks or holes, and they checked out okay. I looked that the fuel lines on the filter housing and they checked out okay as well. As I was looking at the housing, I could see some black from the large O-Ring that is located inside the housing. I opened the housing and the O-ring had gotten caught somehow and ripped. The filter housing was not sealed correctly. I ordered a new Genuine Mini Filter kit from Pelican, and immediately noticed a difference between the large O-ring and the O-ring from the Vaico kit, which I originally ordered. As you can see from the picture, the o-ring on the right is thicker(Vaico) than the o-ring on the left(OEM Kit). That extra thickness caused my headache. That filer housing was a PITA to put back together with the Vaico, but it was a a piece of cake with the OEM. I got everything back together, turned the key a few times, and what do you know? I have 47psi at the rail. Turned the car over and it started with 55psi at the rail during idle. I want to thank DMBFan2, Minsanity and Pelican for helping me get my car back on the road.

 

Grats, coopie. Glad you sorted it. Used Genuine MINI when I did mine. Thanks for sharing this useful info.

 

Here is the Genuine MINI Fuel filter kit in photo. Thanks for updating with pics for the other part, glad you got things fixed.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/16146757196/ES37416/

 

My heads gonna explode.

Original problem started in front of a coffee shop. My 03s wouldn't start and had it towed to a shop to see what the problem was. Shop confirmed the pump was toast. Tried to start the car to get it home so I could change it myself. but the car wouldn't start so I had the Shop do it.... $1100 later, I get my car back and drive it to work for a week.

Here's the good part:

This morning I go to fill up my car and I hear a splatter noise under my car. I look underneath to find a gallon of gas gushing onto the pavement. I say a few choice words for trusting a shop to do a good job and call my work and tell them I'm not coming in. Now that the Shop is open I give them a call and tell them what happened......the response......wait for it.........they say: " Bring it in and we'll look at it but wont be able to fix anything until Mon. or Tues. cause today we're swamped". I tell them I need a car to get to work and dont have until Thurs. off next week.....the response..." Assuming it's something that we failed to do we'll look at it for free and fix it IF it's something we failed to do. However, if we need to order a part it's gonna take a few days to get and fix".


This only solidifies my belief that:
1) most Shops are in it for the money
2) they are incompetent.
3) If you want something done right......DO IT YOURSELF...and take the money saved to buy some beer while you work on your car.....cause even in a drunken stupor you'll still do a better job than a Shop

 

Dude, that sucks. Where was the leak? Under the hood or near the tank?

Edit...I would check the lines from the auxiliary pump if the leak was close to the rear of the car. IIRC, those fuel lines are on the outside of the tank. Perhaps they are not connected all the way. Never know.

 

They just fixed it. I explained to them that certain OEM companies' seals are not OEM for the pumps/filters and that the size is off. Then I told them that it's kinda tricky to set the seal on there correctly and that you may need to try to reinstall it again. The Mechanic gave me a blank look like I was stupid....So what happened?

The seal wasn't set correctly on the filter side.

They also tried to make an assumption that it was my fault somehow. Lucky I know enough to catch them in a lie. Normally the wash the cars they work on......this time they just left it outside w/ the windows down.

I am beyond pissed at this point so I just grabbed the car and left. Now I will need to double check the work they did as a "just in case" measure.

If I find 1 thing that is not to par, I'm taking it back and having them redo the install CORRECTLY.

I was so upset at one tech that I schooled him on my Mini then told him to use NAM as a reference.

 

I LIKE this!