All this stuff

JCW*Tune Kit,*JCW*Front Strut,*JCWShift Light,*JCW*Shift ****, Mini's Alarm, H&R 19mm Rear Sway Bar, H&R Springs, Mini Maddness Air Filter & Front Engine Bushing Inserts, 3rd Light Pulsar, Nav, Wheels, Tinted windows and side markers, smoked tail lights, Helix FMIC, NM Boost tubes, Cobalt Skid plate, Hotchkis upper and lower adjustable control arm, Exhaust Depot Downpipe, JCW Aero Kit, Mini Cooper rally lights, RMW Tune

And I can't pass a smog on my 2007 cooper s! Any suggestions?

 

Your catless downpipe is most likely to be the problem as far as I can tell. I'd put your stock DP back on and try to get re-smogged.

If you don't still have your stock DP I could lend you mine as long as you pay the shipping both ways.

 

I was hoping it wasn't but I think your probably right .. Bummer! Thank you in advance for that offer btw.. I just moved and think I may have left it in the old places storage so I'll check this week. If I need to take you up on that can I pm you?

 

Sure thing!

 

Especially since the JCW exhaust pipe gets rid of the second cat.

 

JCW Kit doesn't get rid of the second cat. The JCW mid pipe is not included in the tuning package.

 

Oops, my bad. Carry on.

 

Nice, thank you

 

Where is this second cat located? I've been underneath on my 07 MCS and have never seen a second cat....

 

The catt on the downpipe is the most important since it burns up the most excess fuel. I currently have my stock DP and a straight exhaust and I passed emissions with no problem. I could be wrong but I think CO and CA are somewhat close in terms of emissions standards (don't hold me to it though). Even with an uprated catted DP I would think you might fail emissions. I hate emissions testing

 

What were the results of your test? You should have been given a print out showing what gas level(s) passed and one(s) failed. You want to base your coarse of action on that more then anything.

 

yes i was..
i'll attach them here.. any help would be great.. just came from my storage and the DP was not there.. should have figured the way my luck has been the last month and all...

 

Ok so you failed on HC and CO. The big issue being the HC. Your cat can cause this since its probably not burning off as much excess fuel so defiantly get that stock DP back on. Also if you can run a stock map that will probably help. At 1500 you have some load to put you into boost, but at 2500 you could be at max boost at some point depending on how twitchy the techs foot is dumping more fuel then what is normally seen at the stock 10 psi. you can also check plugs and compression. these can both cause higher HC levels, but I'm guessing its your mods.

Also look into the new smog laws. In CA there is no need for load testing for 2000 and new vehicles. Its OBD 2 port based testing for readiness codes only.

 

@Mike

Just wondering if Akrapovic DP would yield similar results for smog vs OEM DP?

 

just to move to florida lol
we can do all we want and avoid this headache lol

but in all seriousness, as mentioned above, the DP is the problem.

 

Okay so my stock dp is not with my parts.. Can I order one? I think I left it with the mechanic and he's not around anymore..

 

Ouch, a reman factory DP is like 1,200.

 

Anywher BUT CA you could get a highflow cat...weld it in for a couple hundred $$, but ca approved cats...they must have a special imprinting.....are much more $$$$. Maybe you could borrow a locals...get the car tested.....

 

TBH I don't know. I have not had any experience smogging a Mini with the akraprovic dp.

 

Here's I'd some info on the new CA smog law AB 2289

http://www.check-smog.com/check-smog...-Vehicles.aspx

 

Does this mean with an accessport removing codes you can pass emissions while being catless?

 

I never see my local smog guy use STAR. I work at a dealer and I always smog cars with him. He's STAR certified, and yet he tests all of my cars using the standard dyno with the lead plug.

I'm in Long Beach CA, by the way.

Honestly, my bet is on the cat. Add the cat, lower the performance (technician will check the engine for any modification and will input info in the car... if the stuff he puts down does not match what's originally on the car from manufacturer, it will raise a flag) and go for a long drive (100 miles, mixed driving) just to be on the safe side.

 

Is it an actual dyno that measures power or just something for the wheels to spin on. I personally haven't smogged before so idk what happens. Would the AP make me not pass for some reason? Id imagine no but who knows
Cool to see someone from long beach too

 

I was going through my NAM emails and I remembered I put a bunch of stuff up for sale after I finished all my mods... at the time I was probably so excited (and low on funds) about having my mini done at the time, 2 years back and never thought this would happen... anyways I must have sold it:

@calforhelp If that offer is still good I may take you up on it.. meeting my mechanic friend tomorrow so put it up on the rack and kick some stuff around.. in the mean time I'm in the market for a stock cooper s DP :(

 

It's something for the wheel to spin on. It can function as an actual dyno too. The computers are capable of measuring power...they're just not activated when the smogging is running. You'd need the correct software, which is typically not installed in the smogging computers.

Believe me, I've asked. I wanted to grab a couple free dyno runs!

And about the accessport... no. Let me put it this way: the smogging computer only reads three things: RPM, system readiness status, and the OBD DTC. If there's any codes that throw up a check engine light, the computer will log that and fail the smog. If ANY of the system readiness is not complete (you can check that with torque), the car will not pass smog, regardless if the smog portion and visual inspection passes. If the RPM fluctuates too much, it will not pass smog.

I can give you guys more details about what's needed to complete a full system readiness status, if you guys want it.

Hello to you, local LB guy!