Help, I just rebuilt motor and having running issues..
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1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2010
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Help, I just rebuilt motor and having running issues..
Hi all, and thanks for reading.. We are a 2 mini household, mine is an r53 and the car in question is my wifes r52.
I've never done a rebuild, and it seems to have gone mostly well except for the timing chain.
the car is very low on power and if i either let it climb in revs, or give it full throttle it lags, badly and pings ( which I only let happen once) It also was making a faint clackety diesel like sound from what must have been the chain area, heard through the glovebox area.
I thought I must have slipped a chain cog, so I spent all day removing the timing cover and found the chain was off a cog.
I also notice a 2 cm piece of plastic from the top pasenger side of the tensioner side rail in the corner of the head. After putting it all back together with the tensioner providing tension, I spun the crank clockwise to check the chain movement and it didn't seem quite smooth.
We really needed the car since i took this week off to fix it... and the week is almost up. I put it back together and the diesel sound was gone for about 30 feet now its back.
Could a small piece missing from the guide rail cause the chain to slip a cog? I'm sure it can cause the rattle... Could it cause the big power loss?
I'm driving from fresno to santa clara tomorrow to get new guide rails and I hope thats it... maybe a new chain?
Steve
I've never done a rebuild, and it seems to have gone mostly well except for the timing chain.
the car is very low on power and if i either let it climb in revs, or give it full throttle it lags, badly and pings ( which I only let happen once) It also was making a faint clackety diesel like sound from what must have been the chain area, heard through the glovebox area.
I thought I must have slipped a chain cog, so I spent all day removing the timing cover and found the chain was off a cog.
I also notice a 2 cm piece of plastic from the top pasenger side of the tensioner side rail in the corner of the head. After putting it all back together with the tensioner providing tension, I spun the crank clockwise to check the chain movement and it didn't seem quite smooth.
We really needed the car since i took this week off to fix it... and the week is almost up. I put it back together and the diesel sound was gone for about 30 feet now its back.
Could a small piece missing from the guide rail cause the chain to slip a cog? I'm sure it can cause the rattle... Could it cause the big power loss?
I'm driving from fresno to santa clara tomorrow to get new guide rails and I hope thats it... maybe a new chain?
Steve
If it has...or BOTH have, and the amount is too much, AKA, beyond spec, it basically makes the head and the block BOTH shorter...making the chain too long.
not sure if that is the issue....but figured I would give you the info...
thread from Motor ing alliance AKA *** /forums/cooper-s-engine-drivetrain/15494-tensioner-why-so-scored-3.html#axzz2Q9BpXsmw
This site *** out their name like they are a 4 letter word...but there might be some info for you!! Good Luck!
Might have fixed this today with the help of Jan, Chad and Anson of Best Motor Werks.
The rattle was back and really bad. Doing some more investigating it was determined that the head was decked at the last rebuild, but only 0.002 was removed. Not enough to really make a difference. However, that's not the first time it was decked and the amount shaved off in total is not known. The brain trust was thinking the tensioner did not have enough reach in it to pick up the slack. Since it had been making the noise on startup for some time it was also determined that there may be wear on the plastic chain guides too.
We thought it might be best to give the tensoner a bit more reach before going in and replacing all the guides, sprockets and chain. Figuring it could be an inexpensive fix if it worked.
So...how to give the tensioner a bit more reach? A washer!
So far, so good. No more chain rattle.
I tell ya, it's great to work with people and shops that think outside of the box. Try to get a dealer service dept to add a washer like that.
Read more: http://www.*********************/for...#ixzz2QCTjVmLs
The rattle was back and really bad. Doing some more investigating it was determined that the head was decked at the last rebuild, but only 0.002 was removed. Not enough to really make a difference. However, that's not the first time it was decked and the amount shaved off in total is not known. The brain trust was thinking the tensioner did not have enough reach in it to pick up the slack. Since it had been making the noise on startup for some time it was also determined that there may be wear on the plastic chain guides too.
We thought it might be best to give the tensoner a bit more reach before going in and replacing all the guides, sprockets and chain. Figuring it could be an inexpensive fix if it worked.
So...how to give the tensioner a bit more reach? A washer!
So far, so good. No more chain rattle.
I tell ya, it's great to work with people and shops that think outside of the box. Try to get a dealer service dept to add a washer like that.
Read more: http://www.*********************/for...#ixzz2QCTjVmLs
not sure if that is the issue....but figured I would give you the info...
thread from Motor ing alliance AKA *** /forums/cooper-s-engine-drivetrain/15494-tensioner-why-so-scored-3.html#axzz2Q9BpXsmw
This site *** out their name like they are a 4 letter word...but there might be some info for you!! Good Luck!
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Hmmmm,it wasn't needed but I got the car at 50k miles. Maybe the previous owner?? Any way to have known?
Thanks Zippy!
Btw, I'm on my way to Stevens creek Mini as we speak to get new guide rails and a new chain.
Thanks Zippy!
Btw, I'm on my way to Stevens creek Mini as we speak to get new guide rails and a new chain.
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